winter thaw and rust in the shop

slowzuki · January 14, 2005, 08:19:05 AM

I was out yesterday and even the crome vanadium wrenches are rusting in the tool boxes. This is in an unheated wooden floor building. Makes ya sad! Next building is gonna be heated and maybe dehumidified.

sprucebunny · January 14, 2005, 09:19:27 AM

The mix i've been making is bar +chain , 90 weight, some special viscous addative and paint thinner.You need a thinner so it will really soak in and exclude moisture. I get those little aerosol sprayers that you fill or use the spray gun.
The trucks I've got could each soak up a quart or two ;)
I expect the Rust Reaper to penetrate better than my mix.Then I might put something thicker over it.

Paschale · January 14, 2005, 12:50:39 PM

Good idea on the rust reaper, Jeff--hadn't thought of that. As I'm thinking about Rust Reaper, I'm wondering if it'd be the sort of thing where you'd use it while you're not using your tools, and then would need to wipe/clean it off before running wood through it. Some of the products that I've read about can leave some residue on the wood, which effects the staining process. I've heard that's one of the greatest benefits of using Johnson's paste wax over whatever you apply. Perhaps a thin coat of RR, followed by a layer of Johnson's wax would do the trick.

Maybe Mike of RR could shed some light for us!

I love the stuff, btw...loosens things up great, and I've already used it on my old mill to great effect.

SwampDonkey · January 14, 2005, 02:01:05 PM

Rust reaper is a good idea for the tools (table tops) as that is what I plan on using on mine. I usually sprayed a light coat of WD-40, kept the rust away. I guess I never mentioned that before in the earlier post. ;D

termite,

Apply the summer grade chain oil with a paint sprayer on the air compressor.Then go on the back dusty road so it adheres good. Some folks pay the local garage $100 for the Rust Check treatment, I'm too cheep. ;D

jtmccallum · January 14, 2005, 02:20:33 PM

One thing that helped in my garage was putting in a roof vent when I re- roofed. Looks like we'll going through spring thaw a few more times this year at this rate. I had planned on insulating and adding heat last fall, it's still on the list. I don't think anything but heat would help with this weeks weather.

sawguy21 · January 15, 2005, 06:45:52 AM

That is the reason for the vents in the soffits and gables on the house. Without them, moisture gets trapped in the attic and you have condensation. Just make sure they are covered with fine window screen to keep birds and insects out.

jtmccallum · January 15, 2005, 08:10:45 AM

My garage is not attached to the house. For whatever reason (cost saving) it was built without vents in the soffit or roof. Only real problem is in in the spring when the slab sweats. I added the vent while re-roofing and noticed a difference.

Ironwood · January 16, 2005, 11:30:12 AM

Jeff, does Rust reaper have a filming product like Gempler's? I didn't see anything like that in there site. Perhaps I missed it. I have a loading dock with a 30" jointer on it that I'd like to protect from ambient moisture. Additionally, I have been moth balling large industrial wood working equipment for years using red grease and plastic trimmed at the edges to protect metal surfaces and then palletized and tarped with used rubber roofing that works well for long term storage. I need something in between. Reid

Don_Papenburg · January 16, 2005, 06:29:44 PM

I use the dlue or pink extruded poly foam insulation cut to the size of my table tops . keeps the warm moist air from contacting the surface of the tops . I also wax once or twice a year with auto wax.

Mike_P. · January 17, 2005, 09:45:19 AM

This is an interesting, and timely, thread. Late this past week I was talking with the guys from whom we rent some space. They manufacture knife and saw grinders, which use a lot of castings. After these castings are machined, they will rust very quickly. If not protected those machined surfaces will quickly pit and, perhaps, have to be re-ground.

They had been using a cheap penetrating oil (Probably similiar to WD-40) from Wal-Mart for rust protection, and finding that the protection did not last long. I suggested that they try Fluid Film, which is the product Gempler sells. (btw, John Deere dealers used to handle Fluid Film also.) I have a lot of respect for products using wool wax for long-term rust prevention.

Rust Reaper is formulated with anti-corrosion additives, but that is incidental to its' ability to penetrate and lubricate.

After some further discussion, my landlord decided to buy some Rust Reaper and use it for their application. I think it will work well for them since clean up should be quicker with the Rust Reaper and it will give them rust protection for the time frame that they require. It undoubtedly helps that delivery is convenient and that they know the fellow that makes the product.

Paschale, I would expect that there would be some difficulty applying wax over RR, since you will have some remaining lubricant for some time.

Sprucebunny, thanks for the order. Please let us know how it works for you.

Thanks,

Mike

etat · January 17, 2005, 03:31:54 PM

I look forward to the day when that rust reaper winds up in autozones and walmarts.

Jeff · January 17, 2005, 04:04:31 PM

Paschale · January 17, 2005, 05:08:04 PM

Thanks for the reply Mike--I appreciate it!

Good suggestion on the pink poly foam too, Don_P--I think that'd help too. I've heard of guys using cardboard on top of their tools, but was always a little suspicious of how well that would work. I think the foam idea would work much better.

Captain · January 18, 2005, 03:44:09 AM

Funny Mike should mention Fluid Film at John Deere Dealers, I saw some at my tractor dealer in Vermont the other day.

Captain

Keltic · January 19, 2005, 07:28:38 AM

I like fluid film alot, as rust protction and freeing stuck stuff. Our Dept of Transportation uses it on all our snow removeing/salt appling fleet, and as a maritime area with a lot of weather and wildly changing temps, its put to the test. we went from +16C to -15C the other day. I'd like to try the rust reaper stuff though, sounds good. Cheers FMK

Paschale · February 06, 2005, 02:09:48 PM

Well, it's been quite the thaw here the past week--humid, wet and moist. It seems that my application a few weeks ago is holding just fine. It was some work to get all the rust off from the previous thaw, but then I put the Boeshield on pretty thick, and because I'm not really using my shop much at all these days, I loaded the Johnson's on pretty thick, and didn't buff it off at all. Seems to be keeping the moisture away just fine! ;D I'll be curious to see how much of a chore it'll be to buff caked on, dried paste wax when I do decide to get out there and build something, but regardless, that's gonna be tons better than having to deal with that rust from a month ago!

Kirk_Allen · February 08, 2005, 11:20:50 AM

I think my fix is working!!!!!!

I purchased the magnetic engine block heaters that you put on your oil pan and instead of puting them on my engine, I put them on my saw, jointer, and planer. I plug them in during the morning when most condensation forms.

No condensation problems in the last month and not a SPOT of rust anywhere on my machines. I hope this is the fix. Got my Electric bill and didnt notice much of an increase from the month before. Maybe a couple bucks.

Paschale · February 08, 2005, 12:54:50 PM

Well, that sounds interesting Kirk. :P I'd definitely like to know more about those. You say you use them on your jointer...I know iron holds heat well, but do you feel that it's getting enough heat out to the very ends of the bed to be beneficial? It sounds like something worth trying. Were they expensive?

Dan

Kirk_Allen · February 08, 2005, 05:49:08 PM

So far no rust on the ends of the jointer. They make them with several different wattage. I think the ones I have are 25 or 50 watt. I have had them since living in Alaska. I think I paid about $10 each for them but that was 10 years ago.

I know Napa sells the magnetic heaters as does most Farm Supply outfits. Be careful if you get one from a Farm Supply. They are upwards of 250 watts and they get HOT! They are more for use on Tractors in the winter.

Paschale · February 08, 2005, 10:56:51 PM

Man, Kirk...that sounds like a GREAT idea! Thanks for passing that one on. I know I'll be fighting this as long as my shop is what it is, so I know I'll be trying those block heaters. I'll let you all know how this turns out for me.

Paschale · February 19, 2005, 05:06:19 PM

Hey Kirk,

I finally was able to stop at TSC today. They had some 200 W block heaters, for tractors....I'm thinking maybe this would still be too much heat? I was looking online, and I kept finding block heaters that say they heat the oil pan up near 300 degrees--must be the ones you were suggested I avoid. You could cook an egg on top of the table saw with temps like that! :D I haven't had any luck finding any heaters with less wattage than that...if anyone has some suggestions, I'd sure appreciate it!

Ernie · February 19, 2005, 05:46:50 PM

Have you thought of those little heaters like small electric blankets that they use under seedling trays for starting plants early in the spring? You can get them at garden centers in NZ probably the same there.

Kirk_Allen · February 19, 2005, 06:47:09 PM

I was in a NAPA auto store yesterday that had 25-50 watt heaters. Sad part was they wanted $39 for them.

Paschale · February 19, 2005, 07:04:41 PM

Thanks Kirk...I'll go swing by a NAPA store next week and take a look at those...then come home, and see if I can't find 'em cheaper online. $39 is a lot of money, but it seems if it will last me for 15 or more years, and will help take care of this on my table saw every winter, well, it's money well spent. But there's nothing wrong with trying to find it cheaper... ;)

Thanks for the suggestion Ernie. I guess what I like about what Kirk suggested is that these are magnetic, and they'll stick right to the bottom of the table saw. Maybe you're idea would work though too... ???