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Better Bar For Echo CS400?

Started by lxskllr, January 15, 2019, 09:33:59 PM

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lxskllr

I've been using the echo branded bar on my cs400, and it's already getting gouged at the pc of the bar tip. Same thing happened with my PoulanPro bar, which comes from the same factory(Oregon?) near as I can tell. There isn't a lot of choice on these little consumer saws; Oregon seems to be it. I was wondering if one of their better bars would hold up better; Maybe the ProAm, or ProLite? I'd also like a stiffer bar if possible.


Is it worth the extra cost/hassle of getting a better Oregon, or just dealing with it, and replace a bit more often?

Inaotherlife

I'd say it depends on the price. I've gotten a couple of the narrow, single nose rivet Oregon white bars for next to nothing, and one old but brand new poulan single rivet black bar for free. I use them.

But I do like the taller profile prolite bars that came on my Echo 490 and 361P. They are both Echo branded.
And the 361P and 355T both come with the prolite and have the same bar mount as the 400.

I certainly wouldn't pay home depot prices for the regular narrow single rivet Echo bar.
You can get a Pro-Lite online for those prices.

I can't say for sure. But the Poulan Pro 5020 I saw looked like it had a Poulan branded Pro-Lite bar on it.

ButchC

The problem with those type bars is not who made them but the small radius nose on them for safety reasons. They all wear just as yours have. A much better bar is the Oregon Pro Lite as the other poster suggested. If you try one be aware  that you will now be able to cut with the tip ov the bar and kick back potential is increased. Oregon's web site has a easy to use fitment guide. Get a part number and buy one from a site sponsor or ebay.
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lxskllr

Will the geometry work with a broader nosed bar? I tried one for my poulan I /thought/ would work, but the saw struggled to pull it. I believe the issue was the angle was too steep coming off the drive sprocket, and causing more stress. I briefly considered grinding it down to give a more gentle taper, but that would have been more work than it was worth, and with an uncertain outcome.

Ilikesaws

I've lurked here a long time and decided to sign up today just to weigh in on this.

I bought a CS-400 in 2009 and right off the bat I had issues with throwing the chain while limbing. The chain always appeared to have the proper tension, but it would jump off there anyway.

I just could not stand that narrow radius bar - AT ALL! Within a couple days I ordered a B&C combo (from a supply house that I don't see as a sponsor here so I won't mention them - don't want to get run after my first post!) and have been very happy. Just NEVER have a chain come off anymore.

I went with 16" set-up and the saw runs extremely strong for a 40cc. I did do a MM and re-adjusted the carb too.

But to me it just seems made for that set-up (16"), and I really like the larger radius bar.

Anyway, I wouldn't worry about it having any trouble working a larger radius bar.

  

lxskllr


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