Sawmill dyi hydraulic add ons

Ackie7 · June 02, 2019, 07:48:23 AM

I recently bought a manual sawmill and am looking at adding on hydraulic clamps, flipper and toe board rollers to run off tractor hydraulics. I have read a few older posts but not sure which are the best. I can weld to frame or bolt. Any suggestions??

kelLOGg · June 02, 2019, 07:53:39 AM

Show us pics of the mill and I am sure you will get lots of responses. It helps us to see what you are modifying.

Chuck White · June 02, 2019, 10:31:43 AM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Ackie7!

Ljohnsaw · June 02, 2019, 10:36:36 AM

Welcome!

Its going to depend on the size of what you are trying to manipulate. Bolting is better in that you won't compromise your frame (bend/warp) but it takes longer. If you are trying to move some monster stuff, welding could be potentially stronger and faster to install.

You might see some pushback on using your tractor hydraulics. Do you really want to be running that (wear and tear on the tractor) when you could probably make up a small power unit with a 5-10hp B&S? Then your tractor wouldn't be tied up when you might need it to handle logs/lumber.

pineywoods · June 02, 2019, 04:20:59 PM

Do a forum search on "home made hydraulics" Multi page post with videos pics and dimensions. Log turner, 2 plane clamp, toe roller and power backstops. Been running on my old 95 wm lt40 for 15+ years. forget welding on the mill frame unless you are a world class welder. Member Paul Case built one using his tractor hydraulics..mistake...The hoses will cost more than a small pump and an old lawn mower engine. I used a 1 hp 110 volt electric motor to power mine, ok if you stay in a fixed location. The home made hydraulics post will probably answer most of your questions..

Crossroads · June 02, 2019, 04:42:25 PM

That home made hydraulics post served me well when I traveled that road.

Ackie7 · June 02, 2019, 08:04:58 PM

Thank u all very much. I will check out the hydraulics page. I have access to a computerized plasma cutter so we could cut out any parts if needed. I'm excited because I didn't realize how difficult it is to flip big logs all day long, ha

pineywoods · June 02, 2019, 09:21:01 PM

It appears you are new,so probably haven't figured out the search function. click here home-made hydraulics in Sawmills and Milling. I have personally built 3 systems, have no Idea how many others have duplicated the original. There is a good bit of feedback from other builders in the thread. What kind of mill?

Ackie7 · June 03, 2019, 05:55:10 AM

sorry im slow...haha...i am on pc now, my phone was hard to search with. here is a pic of my mill, SMG champion from quebec canada, im on east coast, its a nice manual mill. user friendly. its 23 hp efi kohler. this is before my first log milled in the spring. i have recently extended the rails to take a 24 ft stringer and raised it a bit for my back. i want to build a building around it, make hydraulic toe boards, flipper/clamp and stops, add an edger off the end and maybe make a solar kiln down the rd. i dream big, lol i will b milling lots of big hemlock, pine and maple. everything else should b regular size. loading it with a small log loader off tractor but thinking it would b smart to build a log brow to load on. having issues trying to think of a perfect yard setup for optiomal use. i have lots of room to design it.

thanks for all imput, this forum is great!!

Ackie7 · June 03, 2019, 06:31:26 AM

47sawdust · June 03, 2019, 04:29:24 PM

I like the SMG mills.I would get the mill bed up to knee height or a little higher.You will need room under the bed for hydraulics,it is also easier on your back.If you are stationary and have electrical power,you might consider an electric motor to power your hydraulics.There are a lot of clever members here who have already done what you want to do.
Welcome and good luck