Short log boards splitting when drying

[mainiac1]

Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I live in Florida, just started sawing logs with a used LT15. sawing several short water oaks (3') that had been laying around for 6 months plus, no end sealer. I have a covered lean-too to protect them from the sun. They've been stickered and drying for a couple months and I'm noticing cracking on alot of them, even the 8/4's ones. Some of the cracks are coming from the ends, which end sealing after they were cut down would have helped I believe, but some are randome cracks in the middle of the board? I want to get this figured out before I start cutting bigger lumber. thanks in advance for the replies

[Ianab]

Are the cracks in boards cut from near the pith (centre) of the log? If so they are almost certain to crack in most hardwoods. If you just saw a log through and though, some of the boards will have the pith or nearby wood in them, and they are likely to crack. 

When you look at the end of a log you will often see a "star" type crack starting to form from the pith, even on a fresh cut log. You can orientate the log so this is as flat as possible, and so ruins the least boards. Your best live edge slabs will be just above and just below the pith. Otherwise, grade sawing involves rolling the log / cant over to saw the best boards from each side face, gradually working inwards and leaving that core of knotty, cracked, low grade wood that might only be good for firewood. 

Those boards with pith cracks are necessarily junk, they lend themselves to butterflies and resin. Or you can rip the sapwood and cracked pith off them and recover two good quarter-sawn boards. 

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

You are correct about end sealing.

We also find bacterial infections in the bottom log from trees grown in wetter sites.  This wood is weaker than normal so checks easily.  

.Also, the very wide pieces like to crack.

With oak, cracking is common in anything thicker than 8/4.  Water oaks are especially hard to dry without cracking, so probably stick to 6/4 and thinner.

[YellowHammer]

If you would post a few photos, that would help. 

[mainiac1]

"Water Oaks are prone to cracking"...that SUX...got allotta thos around here and they look really good sawn out.

[Don P]

Slow down your drying. If the surface is drying too fast the outer shell is shrinking over the still wet and swollen core. You need to slow down the drying at the surface and let the core catch up. Block some of the airflow. If it's molding you're going too slow, if its checking you're going too fast.

[moodnacreek]

Overhang your end stickers. Cut longer logs.

[mainiac1]

Slow down your drying. If the surface is drying too fast the outer shell is shrinking over the still wet and swollen core. You need to slow down the drying at the surface and let the core catch up. Block some of the airflow. If it's molding you're going too slow, if its checking you're going too fast.

I live in FL. sot its getting pretty warm already...low 90's. But I have a lean-to set up with a tin roof, 2 adjacent sides are open. no fans just whatever air flow goes through. I did not end seal any of them...so thats probly not helping either.

[WDH]

You definitely need to end seal the fresh felled logs.  You have to do everything right to get the best results.  I always pay the price when I do not end seal. 

[bobborneman]

Question on end sealing.  I have many logs that people have had cut, and they give them to me maybe weeks or more later after they find out they are not worth hauling to a mill that will pay for them by the ton.  They surely did not seal them when cut, so my question is, does end sealing work if I were to cut off maybe 3-6 inches off the ends of the logs then seal them, or is it too late if they have been sitting for awhile.  These are pines and white oaks.

[doc henderson]

if you  can get into fresh wood with no cracks, that is certainly better although some cracks unseen may still show up.  i am a hobby guy so I am in the same situation.  soft wood is less prone to splitting. i.e. the pine.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

A fresh cut end with no checks will benefit from end coating.  After two summer days without coating, the benefit is half.

[Ianab]

Pines usually don't need end sealing. The sap tends to coat the end of the log anyway, and the lower shrinkage and softer wood make them less likely to crack.

For the oaks it's likely too late, the damage is already done. You could cut 6" off and then seal, or you could just saw them like they are, maybe some boards will crack, or some may not. If they do, you can cut 6" of the cracked board once it's dry, and you haven't lost anymore. 

[doc henderson]

Bob as you do this longer, you may go from after the fact folks telling you about the logs, to them letting you know in advance. then you can coordinate to apply end sealer asap.  fortunately rustic is in and much of my wood goes for that, but you will also want some pristine wood.  to get this, all factors should be ideal.  you will become better prepared to handle these "oh by the way", we have a tree situations.  the same people who sell the anchorseal, also sell plastic flitchsavers. these are plastic items to hammer into the end of a split in a log to try to keep it from spitting further, and these can be sawn through.