plunge/bore cut opinions

[rasawing]

I was talking to a guy who runs a tree service the other day and we were talking bore/plunge cuts for leaners. What surprised me was: once again I heard another opinion on bore cuts (in terms of width and location).

So I kind of wanted to take a survey here:

1. What's the most (as % of diameter) you will take out with a bore/plunge cut?

2. How close are you willing to get to the end of the holding wood? (Within a third of the diameter? Half?) 

[lxskllr]

Interested in hearing what others say. I don't do it enough to have a firm policy, but leaving ~25% of the tree has worked well for me. I kind of guess based on the tree, and what condition it's in.

[Old Greenhorn]

OK, I'll bite on this one (with caution). Every tree is different, really. If it's a live tree with no defects and not leaning too hard, I will get as close as I can to the back, maybe only leaving a few inches holding wood, then it is quick and easy to clip it off from a standing position and back off. So: mild leaner, good wood, use little holding wood. As the conditions change: dead tree, poor wood, loose ground, steeper lean, all that adds to the amount of holding wood. Generally I like to take as much as I can so that the clip cut is quick and easy.
 Understand I try to cut my trees close to the ground on the first shot which usually means I am working on my knees for the notch and bore cut. It is much safer to clip the holding wood from a standing position, you can look up and get out of the way quicker.
 Every tree is different, always remember that.

[moodnacreek]

A tiny notch, a level bore almost to the notch but always above it and just a slab holding the [leaning ] tree up. Just touch the slab with the chainsaw and the tree is down with no butt damage.

[BargeMonkey]

 Theres 2-3x guys who are fulltime professional fallers posting videos on FB, some of the stuff these guys pull off will make you shake your head and I've been handcutting for 20? Yrs now. It's seriously an art to be respected. As Tom said, no tree is the same, the same rules dont apply everytime. I leave less on good hardwood, little more in big softwood. 

[mills]

Just like the rest of the replies... every tree is different. As long as I'm comfortable with the cut, and the direction the tree will fall I normally power out the end of the tree. You'll bust the tree, or take a chance on a barber chair if you leave too much hold wood.

[labradorguy]

Too many variables... it's gonna change with every log, lean, wind and wood... All I know is I cut REALLY low to save hardwood butt logs. I always start down on my knees getting the notch in and boring. Regardless of if I leave some holding wood to clip or I power right out.... I'm ALWAYS up on my feet ready to bug out when that final cut is made!

[Pine Ridge]

You might look into going to a game of logging class. By the time i went through 5 days of the class i had a much better understanding of the bore cut, our instructor was top notch and answered all of the hows and why's the dozen or so of us in the class asked him. Like others said no two trees are alike and you have to adjust accordingly. The open face bore cut is what i use most of the time now.

[Skeans1]

I'll throw this out there how much more tired at the end of the day are you bore cutting? I personally rarely bore cut anything even leaners I use a Coos Bay back cut it's safer and faster especially on steep ground where you can't see the far side. I also don't agree with the small faces that's a lot of extra work where as a 1/3 to 1/2 deep face will require less effort to wedge, if it's a leaner like our Red Alder you sight in till the top just starts to move then face and a Coos Bay back cut will save your life.

[Pine Ridge]

I'll throw this out there how much more tired at the end of the day are you bore cutting? I personally rarely bore cut anything even leaners I use a Coos Bay back cut it's safer and faster especially on steep ground where you can't see the far side. I also don't agree with the small faces that's a lot of extra work where as a 1/3 to 1/2 deep face will require less effort to wedge, if it's a leaner like our Red Alder you sight in till the top just starts to move then face and a Coos Bay back cut will save your life.

I will disagree all day with the coos bay being safer than an open face bore cut, especially on steep ground. Several variations of " bore cut " out there that people use. With the open face bore cut you already have your hinge established, you begin boring from the bad side of the tree, then finish boring from the good side of the tree where you have your pre-planned escape route. You clip the backcut holding wood or "trigger " as we call it and the tree falls guided all the way to the ground guided by the hinge and open face notch, all the wood in the center from the hinge to the backcut trigger has been cut, less danger of barberchair. As far as faster those that have mastered it will lay the timber down as fast as any other method, and have them fall where they need to go.

[Skeans1]

@Pine Ridge 
You can disagree all you want if you cut ground where the far side you need a spring board or two to reach you're not safer or faster bore cutting. Doing a Coos Bay style back cut you physically can't barber chair a tree out. To the faces sure an open face or a block style face can allow the hinge wood to bend farther then a humboldt or a conventional face but there's times that will get you into trouble by pulling a stump out on a head leaner especially with a back bore.

[Pine Ridge]

If the hinge is the correct thickness and not too thick i'll be 20 feet away on my escape route if the stump does pull out. I know you have your way of falling timber and i have mine, nothing wrong with either way as long as we come home at the end of the day.

[Ed_K]

I know you have your way of falling timber and i have mine, nothing wrong with either way as long as we come home at the end of the day.

This is right. But your comparing apples an oranges because of the ground being cut on.