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Setting a blade with dual setter

Started by Unclefish, July 10, 2020, 05:39:13 PM

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Unclefish

Couple questions is there a easy way to figure out where the setter pin should be for hight on the tooth ?
If you keep sharping a blade I am thinking you need to keep raising the blade to set correct ?
Also to height is higher towards top of tooth is more of chance of snapping it off ?
First one I put through had readings from .021 thousands to .028 thousand so basically at the most .007 thousands difference. Will this leave a tooth drag.
Blade was a woodmizer double hard 10 degree .045 158"

customsawyer

What kind of setter are you using? I have both the cooks and WM dual tooth setters. You should be able to get within a few thousandths with either machine. I set my push bars to contact the tooth a little below the tip. It varies depending on the tooth height.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Wintergreen Mountain

    With my cooks Dual Tooth Setter I contact the tooth about a 1/16" below the tip and set .023". The results of set are no more than .001" variance.
   If you are getting .007" variance, it seems your clamps are not clamping tight enough or the set bitts are moving.


Leon
1920 Ford 4x4 tractor, forks & bucket. 2010 36" Turner Mills band mill. Cat-Claw blade sharpener. Cat-Claw Dual Tooth Setter. Cat D3 crawler dozer. Cat 215c excavator, Ford L9000 dump truck. Gardner Denver 190 portable air compressor. KatoLight 40Kw trailer mounted gen set. Baker M412 4-head planer.

Unclefish

Cooks dual setter. Spent from 9 am till 230 this afternoon trying to adjust everything perfect. By the book. Yes I think I found the issue the clamp for the gauges was out in Left field. Was actually even bending the straight edge way back. If you get inline with it you can definitely see it. Had to go work on boat so I gave up on for the day. 

Stephen1

Setting is the most frustrating part of the SS process
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Gere Flewelling

I spent quite a bit of time with my Cook's dual tooth setter trying to make consistent setting happen on my blades.  I was pretty much unsuccessful for a long time. I finally purchased a hand held set checker from Cook's and marked a right and a left tooth on a blade with a sharpie.  I measured the set on each side with the set checker and just kept adjusting the dual tooth setter gauges until the read exactly the same.  There are so many sensitive adjustments that are made by loosening bolts and tightening them without moving blocks related to the gauges.  Once I got them tuned up I just mess with the first l+r tooth after the splice until I am happy with the set adjustments.  Once they are dialed in I can quickly set the rest.  I have finally been able to get the smooth boards like I get with a new blade.  For me, that's success!  
Old 🚒 Fireman and Snow Cat Repairman (retired)
Matthew 6:3-4

bushhog920

I have a Cooks and i measure the top of the tooth by the guide roller on both in and out sides before setting. 1/2" from top of tooth to back side of blade clamp gives consistent set and little adjustment needed when setting a new blade

Banjo picker

As your blade wears from sharpening, you will need to raise it a little bit as you said.  When moving the anvils make minute adjustments.  Maybe a quarter of a turn at a time.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Unclefish

 Thanks for the tips guys. Today went much better. Most where at .026 thousands so I set them all today none where more than .002 thousands off. Just ran around it with out the pins so the most where .026 so I set the pusher pins and went around it.

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