Cutting but end into cone

[North to Alaska]

I don't have a logging cone to pull logs out from my woods while using my skidding winch. Anyone else use this technique? I just cut the but ends into a cone? Works well for me. Gets them through all the other trees and stumps without jamming up on them. I lose a little wood and a little extra time from cutting but save tons of time from having to roll the logs over every time they get stuck.


 

 

[thecfarm]

If it works for you, keep doing it!!!!
I have others laugh at me for some of the things that I do. But most of the ones doing the laughing have much bigger/better equipment or don't do it much.

[WV Sawmiller]

   I mentioned in a similar thread last summer where I had an epiphany and started doing something similar with my logs by just cutting a few inches off at an angle so it would not bind when I dragged it with my ATV or small tractor. I don't know what it took me so long to see something so obvious.

  I also split a heavy plastic 15 gallon barrel and sometimes slip it over the end of the log to use it as a cone.

[g_man]

I do that when I'm winching in and see a probable bind. I stop before it's a tight bind and either roll the log with my cant hook or cut an angle like that if I can't roll it.

gg

[doc henderson]

I have used a half a plastic inside from my firewood totes.

[WV Sawmiller]

   Just be careful not to make the point so sharp it actually sticks and digs into the ground. You just want it round enough to jump over obstacles.

[doc henderson]

need a big pencil sharpener to go one the wheel of your truck.   8)  

[WV Sawmiller]

I do that when I'm winching in and see a probable bind. I stop before it's a tight bind and either roll the log with my cant hook or cut an angle like that if I can't roll it.

gg

Yes that works fine if you have a helper or possibly with a remotely activated winch but if you are working by yourself pulling a log with an ATV or tractor and, because of the terrain cannot get to it with a log arch to raise the end, you can wear yourself out getting on and off the prime mover and walking back and forth to rock the log away from a root or rock or stump. Often I am pulling a log that is 60-70 yards behind my equipment and it is always up a steep hillside and often in a ditch or other run-off. A well rounded log end will jump and ride over most obstacles. 

[g_man]

I do that when I'm winching in and see a probable bind. I stop before it's a tight bind and either roll the log with my cant hook or cut an angle like that if I can't roll it.

gg

Often I am pulling a log that is 60-70 yards behind my equipment and it is always up a steep hillside and often in a ditch or other run-off. A well rounded log end will jump and ride over most obstacles.

Wow, If you really mean yards and not feet I see your point !! A 200 ft winch is a once in a life time event for me. Everybody has a different wood lot and develops methods to match.

Edit: another thing I do is fell the tree towards the tractor and leave the top small. Gets it closer and the top floats up over the slash much easier than the butt when winching thru a mess.

gg

[Stephen Alford]

   As Mr  Gman indicated its different depending on tools, stand, technique etc.  In my case I utilize a slow back cut in combination with a push pole to lay the tree somewhat slowly into the canopy. 


 
   That way the tree remains on the stump.


 
   The fairlead on the winch is the game changer.  The twitch is ...built... rather than a random twitch pulled together.  The real goal is to minimize risk and make the process as efficient as possible with what you have to work with on any particular day


 

[thecfarm]

As g_man knows just walking 150 feet of cable through the woods in a straight line. 
I've done it a few times and I have to stop and rehook the log a couple times.