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EZ Boardwalk 40 wheel adjustment

Started by macminn18, December 13, 2021, 05:09:08 PM

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macminn18

I'm a novice with my EZ Boardwalk.  Really having fun with it.  I noticed on the non push side, the wheel is canted, not parallel with the shroud.  It's almost hitting the shroud on the top of the wheel, but has a good 3/4 inch space on the bottom.  The blade has rubbed the paint off the inside of the shroud in that area.


 
Is there an adjustment for this?

Nebraska

I will take a look at my Jr mill they're pretty  similar.  Take a couple  more pictures of the issue. Your blade tracking looks to be acceptable.  Did you  have  to do much for adjusting tracking when you set up your mill?

macminn18

Thanks Nebraska, I didn't have to adjust much at all.  I'm going to be changing the blade out today I think as well.
You can also see it got hot enough to burn the paint off the back of the shroud.

 



 


justallan1

Is there any chance that the shroud is just out of whack for some reason?
Just a quick thought, but if your blade is staying on and tracking correctly the wheel may not be your problem.
Hope that might help some.

Jeff

Are you having trouble contacting Stanton?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

TroyC

That burn in the shroud is an eye-opener! Definitely call Stanton.

Any damage/unusual bumps/knocks on the mill? Bump it loading a log? 

I had a stump (cutting cookies) come off my EZ 40 couple months ago. My fault for not clamping good enuf. Damaged roller guide, fixed now. 

I agree, check shroud for alignment. If saw is cutting properly I can't imagine bandwheels being that far out.

macminn18

I have a call into them.  I put a new blade on today, much better alignment, but still not parallel with the shroud.

Old Greenhorn

I don't have a dog in this one, but those folks make a good machine. As was pointed out, using the sheetmetal as your judgement point is not the best way to go. The machined parts should be your guide, as well as how they function. I think more likely the sheet metal is out or something else relating to that is happening. The heat mark itself is an alarm bell. Even if the guard is too close, there should not be enough heat to blister the paint, unless the back of the blade is rubbing on the guard. In either event, I would call this a 'stop until you figure it out' kind of deal.
 As you said, you are a novice at this, so take your time and look at all the elements. I am sure they (the builder) can help you figure this one through. They have a very good reputation.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Skipper11A

That idler wheel is the only one that is adjustable...and it can be easily adjusted away from the shroud so I'm not worried about it.  I wonder if the shroud has been damaged, which might have bent the beam that holds both shrouds and wheels together.  Make sure that both shrouds are in alignment with each other, if they are not, this is probably going to be the problem.

Did you buy the sawmill new or used?  This type of damage could easily happen in a parking lot situation or while towing through the woods.  Good luck.

Nebraska

That looks a bit different than the way the Jr is set up.  I didn't get home til after dark this evening. I will  go down to the mill in the morning before work and take a couple pictures. I've got more clearance  than that.

Nebraska

 

 

 

 

I think your shroud is tweaked, unless the shaft is too far back in the bearings somehow.

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