Blades for the new guy

[Mispeld]

My wife and I are expecting our first mill in a few weeks – a healthy 14HP HM126 with 6' extension. She has been asking for one for a year or two. I felt we would never really be completely ready but I couldn't stall her anymore. We are not getting younger.

For preparation,  what all purpose blades would be recommended for standing dead loblolly pines, some hardwood, and also be conducive in Eastern North Carolina? No frozen logs here. We are looking to build a barn and have fun.

I tried searching and it is very easy to go down the rabbit hole. I know there are too many variables to simply answer with accuracy so I am just looking for a recommendation on good "starter" blades to get us going. I see there are experienced sawyers here and I value experience. We have zero.

Thank you in advance.
Tom

[Nebraska]

4 degree Kascos, my Ez Boardwalk was very similar in hp.  Woodmizer makes a 4 degree profile.  I will keep using them on my Timberking  as well.

[mapleack]

Congrats on your impending delivery. I have a 14 hp on my norwood and have been using 7 degree ripper 37's on both pine and hardwood with success.

[firefighter ontheside]

When I had 15hp on my mill I used 10 deg and 4 deg from woodmizer.  4 deg cut slower but less likely to get wavy.  I think 10deg would be a good blade for you and your pine and low HP.  I started using 7deg from Kasco when I upgraded to 19hp.

[kelLOGg]

What Nebraska said. Low HP mills 4deg is a must. Mine is a 20HP and I use them.
Where in eastern NC are you ?

[stanwelch]

Welcome to the forum Mispeld. 
I have a Woodmizer LT 15 with 15 HP   
I cut mostly hardwoods but some white pine.  I use WM 10 degree on everything without many problems. I tried 4degree on white oak worked ok but cut slower and dulled quite fast. I switched back to 10degree and cut faster with better blade life. 
I am sticking to 10 degree blades

[Mispeld]

I was going to get a pack of 10° blades from WM but I see a lot of people using 4°. I appreciate the input. Maybe I'll just get a few of each and go from there. It adds up quick!

Kellogg - I am in Jacksonville, NC.

[JoshNZ]

I have a 22hp mill and use only kasco 4 degree bands now. There's nothing a 4 degree won't cut flatter for longer than any other band in my opinion. Maybe not as fast, but you won't be in a rush starting out, so it is a great starting band.

You will find with a manual sawmill there is not much time saved by getting to the end of a cut in 30 seconds instead of 40, it's the few minutes of offbearing, unclamping, lowering back stops, turning, leveling, reclamping, any head scratching when new, etc etc before the next cut that kills the clock.

[ladylake]

( There's nothing a 4 degree won't cut flatter for longer than any other band in my opinion.)


 That's my opinion too.          Steve

[scsmith42]

I too can recommend the Kasco bands.  I buy mine from FF member Richard (Cutting Edge Saw service) and have been very pleased with them.

I just drove through Jacksonville last month.  I'm located about 30 miles SW of Raleigh.  

You're on the best forum in the world for sawmillers!  Welcome and enjoy.

Scott

[WV Sawmiller]

   I am in the 4* camp. When I bought my mill I bought 10, 7 and 4 degree DH blades from WM and have since tried a couple of turbo 7 and I am phasing out everything but the 4*. Yes, you can saw faster in soft wood with a 10 or 7 degree blade - then you hit a and you have a ripple/wave in your cant that shows up in every board unless you edge it out. A 4* will cut hard or soft wood well, a 10* will not. Good luck on the new mill.