Help me narrow in on some machinery

[csobel]

Howdy,

As some of you know from my intro post, I'm building a shop and saw buildings and I need to decide on some machinery for processing lumber for the interior of the larger shop. The interior is going to be completely finished, air sealed and conditioned, but the air sealing is not dependent on the interior finish choice, weather that be drywall or wood paneling. 

I have a large collection of reclaimed and other boards which I'd like to resaw into shiplap or TnG for the interior, which will save me some $30k on materials if i can efficiently process everything. I need to produce about 7k sf of shiplap.
The boards I have are all 2x6 or 2x8 for the most part, plus some beams and lots of misc boards that's about 2" thick. Keep in mind I'm getting an lt40 in 10 months...

My plan was to split the boards on a resaw, then through the planer, then run them through something to get the rabbet for the ship lap. 

Thoughts:

1) Upgrade my 20" bandsaw to an industrial model with a powerfeed, or go with a horizontal resaw like the HR120 or 130, or the 20hp Taiwanese made resaw that seems to be sold by Grizzly, Laguna, Cantek, etc...

Seems like the vertical resaw setup is going to be slower, but more versatile long run. The HR120 or 10 looks very nice, and I like the option for a powered return and shingle belt (I have a lot of redwood I want to resaw later into shingles). The industrial 20hp resaw is bigger but not really portable or an outside sort of thing... the HR120 or 130 is going
to run about 20% more than a good industrial bandsaw with power feed, but it looks to be much faster when it comes to resaw work.

For the planing, shiplap or TnG... I was looking at the Woodmaster 721 or thereabouts, or maybe the WMizer 200,220 or... just a big planer and then run everything through a shaper? Too much to think about!!

I've done lots of this on my 20" bandsaw and small planer then onto the router table but always in small batches. 

[stavebuyer]

The HR series resaw is one WM's best kept secrets. Best width capacity of anything in its class and more than most commercial grade multi-head units. Save your money and skip the digital setworks. You don't change that often they were about like trying to set the time on a digital watch. Cumbersome. The board return setup is really designed for pallet lengths more than 8 & longer. We often just used dead rolls and ran it with 2 or more when we ran it. It will keep a mill crew hopping feeding and stacking.

[Old Greenhorn]

Have you looked into the WM RS-2?

[csobel]

Have you looked into the WM RS-2?

You know I have; my only hesitation being that I won't have my mill for 11 months or so and it would delay construction to wait. That being said it is an option to just wait and get that... the interior finishes of the building can be done during or after moving things in, it's just more of a pain.

[longtime lurker]

Two things I can tell you for sure: you get a mill you'll be forever surrounded by 4/4 shorts, and shiplap is a great profile for lining using green timber.

So splitting what you have down for lining boards if you can hold off on the lining for now just seems like a waste, not of what you have now but of what you're going to throw away in the future.

An end matcher is a really good investment once you start playing with shorts.

[kantuckid]

Have you considered the dust that collects on what you propose as your shops wall surface? But we don't know what the shops' purpose will be?
Given 10 months wait, I might choose something more at hand and be done with it. 

[csobel]

Have you considered the dust that collects on what you propose as your shops wall surface? But we don't know what the shops' purpose will be?
Given 10 months wait, I might choose something more at hand and be done with it.

It's going to be split up between an office/conference room and a larger woodshop for doing fine pieces as well as a small metalworking area. I understand the dust issue and that's a good reminder — I had planned to do the bottom 5' of the shop in reclaimed corrugated metal from my last barn, then transition to either drywall or shiplap and then for sure wood on the ceiling which is vaulted.
When you say "more at hand" did you mean go with processing and using the boards at hand or something else?
Thanks for the feedback!

[kantuckid]

I meant "get er done" :D, as in why wait? I wait sometimes based on funds or time, but with your project I'm on the outside looking in, so just a casual comment at best.
Woodshop dust statics clings to everything. Also, unlike say an auto body shop paint booth, it doesn't get a washdown either as wood asks for dryness always. 
In my woodshop, I occasionally do a general cleanup, mask up in an N95, sit some box fans sucking air out the main large doors and sweep then blow it down with compressed air. Then I run to take a shower.  :D I've even used my backback blower in the shop when I get a wild hair to clean up. 
I do have a remote-controlled air cleaner hanging from the ceiling but tend to use it when sanding a project. 
Dust is a serious issue in working with wood. My dust system is really a chip/sawdust suction system in my shop.   

[jpassardi]

Kantuckid you're right - wood dust can be a health issue. My Wife who's an OSHA inspector reminds me at times...

[GAB]

Kantuckid you're right - wood dust can be a health issue. My Wife who's an OSHA inspector reminds me at times...

You have my sympathies!
GAB