Tite Bond III question

[kelLOGg]

How long must it be at 45°F for it to cure? I just finished a glue-up at 11AM when the temp was 50°F and the low is forecast to be 30°F. I need to know if I should provide heat for it in my barn/shop.

[Don P]

All I can say is the barn/shop is usually kind of warm when I leave and it seems to work if the material was warm or not frozen to start with.

We're going to be 20 tonight, so the question here is, how's the Waterlox going to fare  

[Andries]

My shop has an electric heater that is set at 5° above freezing. The woodstove warms it up reasonable temps when I've got projects on the go.
Log end sealant is water based too.
Glues, paint and finishes can make or break the job. I'm not willing to risk frost biting them.

[YellowHammer]

I've never tried to cure glue at that temp, but it seems that freezing or near freezing couldn't be a good thing.  

[Larry]

In my old shop I did a glue up of a long bannister rail during winter.  I used TB Original which recommends minimum of 50 degrees.  Got into the forties and the next morning the glue up fell apart.

Lesson learned and I don't take any chances now.  Too much at risk.  To provide heat I have used electric blankets wrapped around the work.  New shop stays nice and warm all winter.

[kelLOGg]

Thanks. I've got my job wrapped with fabric with a tarp over it and 3 heating pads inside. Maybe I'll be lucky and keep the temp at 45.
Latest forecast is for a low of 40. better chance of success.

[bluthum]

Sounds like you have it likely under control but for the record I agree with those who think it to err on the safe side on temps. To that I'd add to err on the safe side on cure time, big time, with all titebonds.  

[kelLOGg]

My job was at 50°F this AM so all is well.

[doc henderson]

My experience with Tite bond customer service has been great.  so, if you want detail or suggestions, give them a call.  they say 30 minutes low stress handling and can unclamp, and 24 hours to full cure, but that may get extended at lower temps.  I am sure they leave some room for error in their recommendations as well.  I have four different types and the caps wear out from cleaning faster than the 16 oz. bottles.  they have twice sent me replacement caps for free.  I by the 1 and 3 by the gallon to refill other containers.  I use the glu-bots as well.

could consider epoxy for some projects.  still temp susceptible but has its own catalyst in addition to temp.

could consider the heat lamps or halogen work lights.

@tule peak timber

[Ianab]

What I've done for large glue up in winter is throw some old blankets over the assembly table making a tent, and then put a small electric oil column heater under the table. Set the thermostat on medium and it should keep the temp in the tent sensible. The glued pieces are on the table above the heat source so will stay warm enough and the oil column heaters are about the safest heat source you can find.

[tule peak timber]

There is a low limit for TB111 temp wise. If the glue sets with a whitish hue, it is too cold! I run into that problem occasionally here in the winter and that means I need to heat the room. Epoxy's the same - but they differ greatly by manufacturer as to curing temp, the system used, and resin. All of the tech sheets will state temperature windows for use.
 40 something is too cold.
  TB111 is terrific glue, and for certain applications is better than epoxy. In the winter I heat the shop 7 days a week if for no other reason than to chase the dampness and protect ongoing projects. In the summer the shop runs 90-100 something and gluing with TB111 presents the opposite problem of setting too fast.
 Plenty of times in the past where I bring smaller projects into my wife's kitchen or living room to keep things "cooking"  

[kelLOGg]

I have taken projects into the house, too. Sometimes I put them in the dry kiln (6' x 6' x 16') if I have no lumber in it but it sure is a hassle since it is on the 2nd floor of my barn. When it gets colder I will probably do so.