Beginner Looking for advicr

[BT9212]

Hello all, I have gotten my mill running perfect and am looking to start adventuring into Timber Framing, the entire reason I got my mill 2 years ago. I have looked at a few online courses I may take. I've done the baby step of building 6 6x6 framed sawhorses. I want to get that small sense of accomplishment on a building though, so i'm lookin for build a 10x10 feed room our near our cows to save some time. It would be a perfect starter project for me since it's not time consuming and it's pretty simple. My questions are to do with something this small. I understand if I do a true 8x8 roof i'd have a good bit of pressure on my walls but was curious if I could get away with no braces on a room so small. I may move it up to a 12x14 or so if I need to get that extra room for the braces near the door. Looking at using green 8x8 and if I need bracing 4x6 Long leaf pine. I have white oak available as well but would rather start with the pine as to not ruin some good oak. Will be sided with 1x10 pine siding, off the ground on a foundation I have already built. It's a 10x10 marine treated post on brick pillars. untreated 2x8 joist every 12". I am not opposed to doing 2x6 rafters for this and just getting those walls up. Thoughts, Advice, Comments are all welcomed.

[scsmith42]

Congratulations on getting your mill dialed in

Regarding next steps and timber framing, probably one of the best things that you could do is attend one of the classes hosted by our own Jim Rogers in Western North Carolina. They generally have classes about every six months or so.

About 10 years ago, Jim conducted a weeklong class in my shop and I learned a tremendous amount from it. I highly recommend it.

I'd also suggest you get the timber frame books by Ted Benson, Steve Chapel, and Jack Sobon. They have a tremendous amount of information in them and if you read them before class, you'll get that much more out of class

[Jim_Rogers]

Congratulations on getting your mail dialed in

Regarding next steps and timber framing, probably one of the best things that you could do is attend one of the classes hosted by our own Jim Rogers in Western North Carolina. They generally have classes about every six months or so.

About 10 years ago, Jim conducted a weeklong class in my shop and I learned a tremendous amount from it. I highly recommend it.

I'd also suggest you get the timber frame books by Ted Benson, Steve Chapel, and Jack Sobon. They have a tremendous amount of information in them and if you read them before class, you'll get that much more out of class

Scott:
Thanks for your kind words.
We're holding classes every other month at the Timber Frame Learning Center of Western North Carolina.
Next class is May.
Jim Rogers

[BT9212]

Congratulations on getting your mail dialed in

Regarding next steps and timber framing, probably one of the best things that you could do is attend one of the classes hosted by our own Jim Rogers in Western North Carolina. They generally have classes about every six months or so.

About 10 years ago, Jim conducted a weeklong class in my shop and I learned a tremendous amount from it. I highly recommend it.

I'd also suggest you get the timber frame books by Ted Benson, Steve Chapel, and Jack Sobon. They have a tremendous amount of information in them and if you read them before class, you'll get that much more out of class

Thanks, I went ahead and ordered one of the books and will check into the class.

[Jim_Rogers]

May's class is scheduled to work on this frame:
shown here:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=3603.75

Jim Rogers

[Brad_bb]

I'm not sure what is meant by an 8x8 roof?  There are a number of design configurations that could be done.  One type uses bents with principle rafters with a ridge beam or no ridge and rafters across the principle rafters, which might be what you mean by 8x8 meaning 8"x8" timber for principle rafters.   But there's also a design using bents perpendicular to the ridge with two posts, a tie, a king post with braces and a ridge beam.  Then you'de use common 2x rafters.   Then there's a design of two bents parallel to the ridge beam.  The two bents are connected by tie beams and then you do a king post with braces and ridge beam.  

As far as braces in a 10x10 frame, you can still do braces, just do shorter braces than the standard layout of 3'x3'.  Or do corner braces with no space or a small space between the brace and beams.  You could use 12" wide or wider brace stock.

When it comes to material choice, I made a mistake years ago using pine siding.  I came from an area that is far enough north that you don't really see carpenter bees.  Where I was building was much further south and they were ravaging my pine trim and siding.  Had to tear it all off and choose a different material.  Carpenter bees won't bother hard hardwoods like oak or sheet metal, or Hardie board.  Something to consider.  If you have a design and it's checked, and you have layout on your beam checked or are sure it's correct, I wouldn't be  worried about using your oak.  Layout is where most mistakes are made, or not marking your layout on your timbers so that you can't cut the wrong side of a mortise or a similar mistake.

Taking the workshop class is the best recommendation.  You'll learn a lot, more than you can absorb in that time period.  It took me a number of years to really digest certain aspects of layout etc.  During that time you can do it, but you'd like to have someone double check your layout check your work.  Same goes for the design.  Understaning your reference faces is very important.  All of your measurements are taken from the reference faces/edges/arris. If not, things won't fit.  The measurement references are the key to correct layout.

[BT9212]

Congratulations on getting your mail dialed in

Regarding next steps and timber framing, probably one of the best things that you could do is attend one of the classes hosted by our own Jim Rogers in Western North Carolina. They generally have classes about every six months or so.

About 10 years ago, Jim conducted a weeklong class in my shop and I learned a tremendous amount from it. I highly recommend it.

I'd also suggest you get the timber frame books by Ted Benson, Steve Chapel, and Jack Sobon. They have a tremendous amount of information in them and if you read them before class, you'll get that much more out of class

After looking at all three books the one written by Ted Benson seems to be the most beginner friendly. Any thoughts on the three books as far as which you would start with?

[BT9212]

I'm not sure what is meant by an 8x8 roof?  There are a number of design configurations that could be done.  One type uses bents with principle rafters with a ridge beam or no ridge and rafters across the principle rafters, which might be what you mean by 8x8 meaning 8"x8" timber for principle rafters.   But there's also a design using bents perpendicular to the ridge with two posts, a tie, a king post with braces and a ridge beam.  Then you'de use common 2x rafters.   Then there's a design of two bents parallel to the ridge beam.  The two bents are connected by tie beams and then you do a king post with braces and ridge beam. 

As far as braces in a 10x10 frame, you can still do braces, just do shorter braces than the standard layout of 3'x3'.  Or do corner braces with no space or a small space between the brace and beams.  You could use 12" wide or wider brace stock.

When it comes to material choice, I made a mistake years ago using pine siding.  I came from an area that is far enough north that you don't really see carpenter bees.  Where I was building was much further south and they were ravaging my pine trim and siding.  Had to tear it all off and choose a different material.  Carpenter bees won't bother hard hardwoods like oak or sheet metal, or Hardie board.  Something to consider.  If you have a design and it's checked, and you have layout on your beam checked or are sure it's correct, I wouldn't be  worried about using your oak.  Layout is where most mistakes are made, or not marking your layout on your timbers so that you can't cut the wrong side of a mortise or a similar mistake.

Taking the workshop class is the best recommendation.  You'll learn a lot, more than you can absorb in that time period.  It took me a number of years to really digest certain aspects of layout etc.  During that time you can do it, but you'd like to have someone double check your layout check your work.  Same goes for the design.  Understaning your reference faces is very important.  All of your measurements are taken from the reference faces/edges/arris. If not, things won't fit.  The measurement references are the key to correct layout.

Thanks for the input, the bee problem is definitely a real one here in South Ms. I have traps set up for them everywhere. As for the roof, I was referring to 8"x"8 beams up to a king post. I am just unsure of some of the terminology when it comes to this. I'm looking for some classes but it unfortunately seems like we don't have much around my area at all. I'll most likely have to make it a trip and go off somewhere to learn for a week or two. I'm looking into the classes mentioned above. I appreciate the feedback and will take the advice on the braces. Thanks

[DDW_OR]

welcome

here is some good reading

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=124930.msg2041659#msg2041659


cheat sheet
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=106115.0;topicseen

[Planeiron]

Congratulations on getting your mail dialed in

Regarding next steps and timber framing, probably one of the best things that you could do is attend one of the classes hosted by our own Jim Rogers in Western North Carolina. They generally have classes about every six months or so.

About 10 years ago, Jim conducted a weeklong class in my shop and I learned a tremendous amount from it. I highly recommend it.

I'd also suggest you get the timber frame books by Ted Benson, Steve Chapel, and Jack Sobon. They have a tremendous amount of information in them and if you read them before class, you'll get that much more out of class

After looking at all three books the one written by Ted Benson seems to be the most beginner friendly. Any thoughts on the three books as far as which you would start with?

I have those books and they're great but a brilliant starter book is Will Beemers learn to timber frame. Great info, well written and clear diagrams.

[scsmith42]

Congratulations on getting your mail dialed in

Regarding next steps and timber framing, probably one of the best things that you could do is attend one of the classes hosted by our own Jim Rogers in Western North Carolina. They generally have classes about every six months or so.

About 10 years ago, Jim conducted a weeklong class in my shop and I learned a tremendous amount from it. I highly recommend it.

I'd also suggest you get the timber frame books by Ted Benson, Steve Chapel, and Jack Sobon. They have a tremendous amount of information in them and if you read them before class, you'll get that much more out of class

After looking at all three books the one written by Ted Benson seems to be the most beginner friendly. Any thoughts on the three books as far as which you would start with?

Probably either Jack Sobons book or Steve Chappell. Ted Bensons books have beautiful ideas, but the other two get more into the weeds.

[Dave Shepard]

I like Jack's books because they have actual designs in them. The 12'x16' is highly adaptable. Will Beamer's book is great standalone or a companion to Jack's books.