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25"Rollormatic Light ES Bar on a Stihl 261 c-m

Started by ironmike44, March 25, 2023, 02:59:59 PM

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ironmike44

I'm new to TFF and have an out of warranty newly ported 261 c-m. I am getting up there and a 25" light bar (or longer if possible) would make my back happy with the clearing work I have ahead of me (mostly pines and sweet gums). I also have a small Echo 16" that uses a 3/8p 0.050ga chain. Is this a feasible modification that is outside of the Stihl bar length specs? 

barbender

How big are the trees you are clearing? I have to think there are a lot of instances where an actual bike handle brush saw would work far better.
Too many irons in the fire

sawguy21

I don't think you will find a 25" bar with the small mount. At any rate your saw will be very nose heavy and hard to handle. We had a customer put 24" Oregon bars on their 026 saws but but they weren't long switching back.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

lxskllr

I have a bad back, and am 6'5". The absolute worst thing is long bar on a light saw. For small stuff, I'll take my 40cc echo+16" bar every day of the week. Thing is, unless you're 3.5' tall, they don't make a bar long enough to reach everything. You'll be hauling around a nose heavy bar that's pulling your back out of alignment, and over extending trying to reach stuff you really can't reach. Exercise, posture, and good form are the key to a happy back. Also, brushcutters are fantastic as barbender noted. Depends on what needs to be cut.

ironmike44

Thanks. Trees are ~8-16" including a big 30" hickory that has fallen across the creek. The bar I was hoping to use is one of their Light Bar series #3003-000-2231. Does the 3003 prefix indicate it will fit the bar mount of the 261 saw? 

lxskllr



OddInTheForrest

A 25" 00.50 B/C combo should fit the saw, but I personally wouldnt go with it.
The 261 uses the 3003 prefix bars, and Im sure a 25" 3003 bar can be found.
Id much rather get a clearingsaw and combine it with a MS151 or Echo 2511WES. Just because its lighter and the clearingsaw can be fitted with a Strand blade or similar. 

Migth be a more scandinavian approach, but I can live with that ;)

Best regards Odd

doc henderson

that is a tough saw, but that length may overwork the power head.  might consider a skip toothed chain.  If you think bending wears you out, try sticking the bar and having to remove it if it stalls the chain in the log, or burns up your clutch.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

ironmike44

Thanks Odd & Doc for your feedback.  I'm way better with steel than wood. I was thinking I'd use a semi-skip (3/8p, 0.050ga) to match up my echo 3450 and keep 1 set of files for both. I like that little guy but find myself using the 261 for most stuff on the ground. At 71, most of my tree rat stuff is behind me, I don't bounce so good anymore. :D  Any suggestions on chain, sprocket & bar (I like the reviews on the rollermatic light es)?
Thanks again guys


421Altered

For the sizes you want to cut, the 261 with the 18" bar is ideal.  My ms261 wears a 16" bar all the time, mostly because I had a 024 for many, many years and it had a 16, so I'm used to that length.  With the 16" bar the 261 is very compact and has a lot of hp per inch of bar.

421Altered

Some guys on here put a 20" bar on the 261.  Hopefully, some of them will chime in.

cuznguido

I will chime in and say I have had a 261 for several years and a 260 before that.  I always put 20 inch, .375, .050 on them simply to have the same stuff on both my saws.  Never had a problem.  Cut everything from brush up to some pretty decent sized trees, mostly hardwood.

doc henderson

I think mine is a 20 inch.  used it yesterday bucking up slabs and little chunks to go through the splitter.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

hedgerow

I run a 16inch 325 on my 261. If I need a saw with a bigger bar I grab the 461 or the 660. My whole reason for buying a 261 was to run a lighter pro saw. I am not going to put a 20 inch or plus bar on the saw and add some weight. 

doc henderson

I think if you are doing it to reach a 1 inch branch without bending over that is one thing.  to buck 18 inch logs all day, I agree with a biger power head and bar to match.  keep the chains sharp. :) 






my 261 and 046.  it is just a bigger saw, and well matched to the 25 inch bar. that is a 20 on the 261.  3/8th vs 0.325 as well
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

Too many irons in the fire

ironmike44

Thanks guys.... the 261 is my bigger saw  :'(  I use my very light Echo w/a 16" bar for tree rat stuff (yeah I'm still climbing around like one). I was hoping to get a little more length & maybe modify the oiler a bit since there is no adjustment as I understand it on the 261c-m. I wish I was 60 again (well as long as I'm wishing...) & I'd have the $$ to get a bigger saw. The 261 is my bigger saw & right size for me weight wise & at 71 I'm not building any more muscle. 
Thanks again everyone for helping me out. 
Mike 

realzed

There is an oil adjustment on all 261's - flip it over and you will see it clearly marked on the bottom..
I have always had a 20" bar on my 261 CM from new and have always used .325 x.050" chains and never felt any reason to go smaller to try and save weight or thought the saw was off balance - but that's just me!
Recently I purchased a 04 light bar - the 3003 equivalent of a 'light bar' and tried out a newer RSPro narrow kerf chain to go with it and it does cut faster, although I haven't used it all that much to decide really how much faster, but it is notably quicker cutting..
Never felt the need to go to a 3/8" chain although I know a guy who  sells a lot of that combo the Ministry of Natural Resources for fire fighting crews here and they ask for them set up on 18" bars - so I'm assuming they work well that way.. 
He did tell me that he also has sold quite a few 3/8" in 20" and many users also like that setup maybe due to standardizing their sharpening equipment used on bigger saws they may also have.
All in all - considering the 50cc size - the saw works great in my estimation with a 20" bar whether regular E type or light version and never lacks for power in any situation I have used it in!

doc henderson

yes but iron Mike, you are not loosing as fast as others who sit in a chair either.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

I ran my 346 Husky with a 20" narrow kerf bar, and it balanced just fine. 
Too many irons in the fire

Jk372

I run a 261 with an 18" forester and it's a really nice combination for everything from brush to bigger trees.

82f100swb

I have a first gen carbed 261, heavily ported, de-stratoed, popup etc. For all intents and purposes it will run and oil a 25 with 3/8 skip just fine, especially for what you are planning. I wouldn't be using it full bar legnth very often, but I have done it with my saw, and it does get the job done. 

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