Can't figure out why my blade is jumping off - Woodland Mills HM130MAX

[future_vision]

I'm baffled. For the longest time I had issues with the blade not staying on. After switching out belts, putting on a known good blade and making teaks to all the little things like blade guides and such, I was able to get it cutting again. I got through a couple 12' logs. The only issue I had was non-smooth cuts which was expected because it wasn't a sharpened blade. Fast forward to today and I had a real struggle getting through a larger log (in diameter). Eventually the blade kept popping off. Here is what I noticed.

• I found that the back left wheel is not actually on the track. Possible issue for sure but that wasn't likely new. Everything is level so I am guessing that a bump the mill took make have pushed the machine out of square. I believe the solution here is to loosen bolts and let it settle back on the tracks and then re-tighten. Correct?
• Second, the new belts I put on might be having issues? The drive side belts look like they are fraying on the edges. Is this normal for their new style of belts? Pictures in gallery. It also seemed like the blade drift was happening on the drive side. Maybe that is why the blade popped off. It frayed enough to make the belt 'slanted' toward the front?
• Third, in tow of the three occasions that the blade popped off the follower side belt also came off.
• Last, even with a new blade it cut very poorly.

Any ideas what is happening?

[fluidpowerpro]

I suggest fixing issue #1 first. All of the other issues may then go away.

[SawyerTed]

This sounds like a blade tracking issue - which means the wheels need to be in alignment with each other so the blade rides on a specific part of the wheels. 

As fpp mentioned, address the wheel alignment/blade tracking first.  There should be adjustments to adjust the wheels up/down and left right.

[Nealm66]

The wheel alignment is pretty simple on my 2023 130 max. I think the older ones you had to move the motor. Mine have came out of alignment 3 times in 95 hours of bigger logs. As soon as you see a wavy cut, check your blade level. Check the blade is overhanging about 1/16 on both sides. Check your belt tension. I pry up with an ax handle to get decent tension but maybe someone has figured out a better way to get ahold of the actual tensioner. Don't forget to loosen the band and the set nut when aligning. Woodland has excellent customer service in my opinion so a call should be of help.  Also, I check my band tension a lot as I'm milling. I stopped using the torque wrench and just use the handles. Hope this helps

[future_vision]

This sounds like a blade tracking issue - which means the wheels need to be in alignment with each other so the blade rides on a specific part of the wheels. 

As fpp mentioned, address the wheel alignment/blade tracking first.  There should be adjustments to adjust the wheels up/down and left right.

I had alignment issues before and gave up. I had finally got everything aligned and milled two logs with no issue. It wasn't until I popped this new blade on that the driver side seemed to be creeping forward. That side you almost never have to to fiddle with which is why I was wondering if it might be the belt fraying like it is doing in the picture.

[fluidpowerpro]

You mention the back left wheel not riding on the track. Although I'm not familiar with the construction of the Woodland Mills saw, is perhaps the frame bolted together and as you mentioned, possibly been tweaked? If that is the case, you will want to make sure that is corrected before you make any adjustments to the band wheel alignment.

[Nealm66]

I wouldn't think it would roll at all if the frame was so out of whack that it was bending the head. If it were me, I'd stick new belts and blade on and go through the assembly process from scratch. I'm wondering if you forgot to tighten the set bolt after you got it aligned? Also, the new belt will need tightened and possibly have to re align the wheels after 1 decent size log. After that, just do a quick check at each blade change.

[future_vision]

I wouldn't think it would roll at all if the frame was so out of whack that it was bending the head. If it were me, I'd stick new belts and blade on and go through the assembly process from scratch. I'm wondering if you forgot to tighten the set bolt after you got it aligned? Also, the new belt will need tightened and possibly have to re align the wheels after 1 decent size log. After that, just do a quick check at each blade change.

These are new belts. I wonder if I am too tight on the tension causing the belt to flatten out and fray like this. Been using the torque wrench but perhaps their new style of belt can't handle 25lbs?

[future_vision]

I also remember something else. There were a few times where the whole blade came to a stop as I pushed into the cut. Thought that might be because I was trying to force it or there wasn't enough lubrication or the blade was dull but I believe it did it with a new blade too. Is there anything to this? I'm also wondering, after reading some threads, whether or not my throttle cable might have stretched and is a bit loose. I haven't run the mill much but it seemed like it might have been running a little slow but I don't know for sure.

[Stephen1]

A lot of your issues are related to alignment. It does not matter what the mill is, alignment is key. You need all new belts, blades to make a proper alignment. If you are using worn belts and blades you can not make a proper alignment and end up with the issues you have.
If it was me, I would get new belts and a new blade and start at #1 on the alignment page of your manual.
We all go though this, try to tweak this, adjust that but at the end of the day I found out it was better to do a full alignment. Once you have sawn lots and know your mill you can sometimes get away with a tweak here of there.
Good sawing.

[Nealm66]

The new belts handle 25lbs just fine. The belt might be new but it's frayed. I wouldn't try to use it to align the wheels and that's where I would start. I'd also level the head and align the guide. When you have a blade on tight and your spinning the wheels by hand, how much does the blade over hang in the front? Also, how much play is in the drive belt?

[Nealm66]

Looking at the pictures again, it looks like something was slipping. Like maybe the blade tension had dropped while you were sawing and your pushing the mill a little harder, blade gets warmed and looser. I see this a lot in bigger logs cutting the wane off on Doug fir at least. Making a cant in 1 big log = dull blade

[jasonb]

Call Woodland Mills and discuss this with their support staff.  The blade kept coming off on my HM122 and it was because my drive wheel was out of alignment.  Made an adjustment and have not had any issues since.

[Wlmedley]

To much blade lube will make your blade come off. I had that problem early on.If I'm not cutting pine I hardly ever use any lube at all.

[future_vision]

A lot of your issues are related to alignment. It does not matter what the mill is, alignment is key. You need all new belts, blades to make a proper alignment. If you are using worn belts and blades you can not make a proper alignment and end up with the issues you have.
If it was me, I would get new belts and a new blade and start at #1 on the alignment page of your manual.
We all go though this, try to tweak this, adjust that but at the end of the day I found out it was better to do a full alignment. Once you have sawn lots and know your mill you can sometimes get away with a tweak here of there.
Good sawing.

Those were new belts and the second blade I threw on, the one that popped off, was new as well. I did get everything working and was going great until I nipped the log stop. Lol!

[future_vision]

I went back to work on the mill today. I loosened up a couple of blots on the carriage on the one side and the wheel setting back onto the track. I also tightened up the throttle cable. It seemed it was not running at full speed before but I never considered checking the cable. I also went through the whole process of adjusting everything. I got a bit hung up on the blade being parallel/level. At one point on the blade it would be level and another an eight. I just chalked that up to the blade maybe being slightly bent?

Anyways, once I had all of the adjustments done I fired it up and was able to do a couple cuts. All was well until I nipped the log stop. Blade was done after that. Tried to throw on the old blade but that was dull so that was the end of it for today.

I did make a slight adjustment to the drive and follower sides. That seemed to help out quite a bit. The fraying belt I think might be due to it being tensioned too much. I decided to go with the non-exact method of 2.5- 3 turns after snugging it up and that seems to work great. Spinning the wheels by hand was much easier. I suppose that might have been a sign before that I had a hard time spinning by hand.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll be giving the mill a try with a brand new blade in a week or so when I can travel back over there. I'll be back if there are any issues.

[Nealm66]

When you're checking the level of your blade to adjust the head, make sure you're not on a tooth that is bent. I never use a torque wrench anymore

[SawyerTed]

You haven't mention the hours on the mill.

Just for peace of mind, when you change blades next time, check the bearings in the wheels without a blade on.  Even if the mill is fairly new, it only costs a few minutes to make sure bearings are okay.

There should be no movement when you grasp opposite sides of the wheel (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and rock the wheel back and forth. If you get a wiggle or rocking the bearings could be bad. The wheel should spin easily and with very little noise when spun by hand.

If a bearing or bearings are bad, you will never get tracking right, if you do get tracking it won't last.