Need advise on my sawmill project

[fluidpowerpro]

My experience has been that 4 posts is much better than 2. When I say 4 posts, its 4 posts to support the whole carriage plus 2 posts that the saw head rides up an down on. This is like whats done on the Hud-son Oscar series of saws. 

[Ljohnsaw]

I have 4 posts and 4 ACME screws. I made some brackets that wrap 3/4 of the way around the uprights. I tucked in some 1/2" thick blocks of UHMW plastic for a low friction fit. It's definitely not a precision fit. IMO, it is fine to wobble about. It's the height that is critical that it be robust.

You can see one behind my scale.

The scale is magnetically stuck to the post with a toggle clamp at the bottom.

[Ken Malone]

How do I add a photo?

[Magicman]

Look at the last item on the Index Page:  How to Post Photos.

[esteadle]

I have a CH730 Kohler gas that develops about 24.5 HP, and I can drag a 7/8" tooth spacing blade through 22" wide red or white oak at a decent cutting speed (if the blade is sharp). If you do the math, about 25 teeth are engaged with the wood during that cut, and it is definitely working that engine, but it has enough left over to push the saw itself through the wood (via the advance motor, which I estimate draws < 1hp).

From this I draw a rule of thumb of about 1 HP per "tooth" engaged in wood cutting on a blade on a bandsaw.

I should add that I sharpen my bands to a fairly aggressive 8° hook angle, which my engine can handle.

A lot of the lower HP saws on the market are specifying blades sharpening to a 4° hook angle which requires less HP which works out well for 10-12 HP saws. We pay for it in time of cut, of course. A lower hook angle won't remove as much material as an aggressive hook angle.

So maybe a more refined rule of thumb can be created, like one that takes hook angle into consideration? I don't know. Will mutter on this topic later.

[fluidpowerpro]

I like the 1 HP per tooth in the wood analogy but I think you really need to define cutting speed along with it. 
I have cut a 36" red oak log with my 16 HP mill at an "ok" speed but would love more HP to go faster.
What I think is "ok" I'm sure would be unacceptable to others.
It would be interesting to know what manufacturers use to estimate cutting speed per HP, cutting width, species and blade characteristics. 
I know there are more variables but those are probably the biggies.

[jpassardi]

My personal experience: I upgraded from a Kohler 15 HP to a Kohler 25 HP. I forget the exact numbers but it was about a 40% increase in torque. It cut like a different mill right away, especially in wide cuts. I can now feed quick enough that I'm not making fine powder sawdust on wider hardwood cuts.

[Ken Malone]

I got some 1" 6 tpi acme rod but having a hard time finding nuts for it. any suggestions? I'm in Nova Scotia and there are very few options locally.moose herder id like to see more picks of your complete acme set up if I could.Thanks.oh I scrolled back and see all your pictures.

[Mooseherder]

Here is how mine is attached on both sides with steel plate. 

[fluidpowerpro]

I was going to suggest Surplus Center but they only show 7/8 -6 . Are you sure it's 1"?

[beenthere]

A reasonably good, competent machinist can make the "nut" for your threaded rod.

Have you looked at McMaster-Carr for what they might have?
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/lead-screws-and-nuts~/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/?s=acme+nuts

[ladylake]

I got some 1" 6 tpi acme rod but having a hard time finding nuts for it. any suggestions?

Try Roton, they have  all sizes at good prices.  You want to use a bronze acme nut, last way longer.  Steve

[Ken Malone]

Ordered bronze nuts from Roton. Thanks everybody for sugestions. This is the best source for info .I have found. Great to get advice from people who know what there talking about.

[Ken Malone]

Do I need a centrifugal clutch on the motor to drive wheel or just an adjustable idler pulley to engage blade