Went to the Game of Logging training

[Kevin]

If the tree is in favour of the lay there's no need to bore it unless the tree is leaning hard.
Boring is used to reduce stress in a leaning tree.
I suspect GOL is using it  for safety which is good but it's not the only safe way to fall a tree.
When I start a back cut it allows me to set the wedges and watch the tree advance to the lay.
If the tree doesn't advance it allows time to make corrections.
If you set your wedges in a bore then cut the back strap, the tree sets back on your wedges you may have problems lifting the tree and all you have left is the hinge holding a set back tree.
By boring every tree your nose sprocket will quickly wear out also.
I'm not knocking the GOL on their course but there's more than one way to skin a cat, it's my intention to give people the information and let them decide what's safe and which works best for them as individuals.
I seldom bore trees but it's good to have it when required.
Some instuctors don't get into specifics so don't be afraid to ask questions when taking the course.
I had one instructor that wasn't going to show the class how to cut a spring pole until asked and another instructor from another class that didn't know what gunning sticks were.
Keep an open mind and use the information to your advantage.

[jon12345]

When I first started college, we had to complete GOL level 1 training before we got to fell a tree.  John Adler came and spent a couple days in the woods with us also, which was very informative.  He taught us about square ground chains and showed us many other things including tips on limbing and also a neat trick for getting trees down that are hung on a stump.

If givin the chance to take more GOL training I definitely would and would recommend it to others.  Another thing about GOL I know is that everything you learn isnt necassarily from the instructor, people are also encouraged to put in their .02 and the instructor will give his thoughts on it, explaining why your idea is or isn't a good idea.

[Larry]

A lot of mis-conceptions about GOL, boring, and the open face notch.

Open face notch wastes wood – On the contrary.  May seem that way while going through the training as they teach a standard rule of thumb, hinge width, and thickness.  The training does go on to say the width and thickness can be adjusted to suit local conditions and trees.  A high stump for me is anything more than 2" off the ground.  The hardwood butt log gets a trim to get rid of the flair anyhow so nothing is lost to the open notch.

Boring causes the nose sprocket to quickly wear out – Normally one of the first questions asked by the pro's.  I'm not a pro but I have bored every tree I have cut since taking the training in 1999...haven't noticed any excessive wear on the nose sprocket.  Still see some of the loggers in that class and they haven't complained either. 

It just as easy to set wedges while boring as any other way.  You just swing the bore around so it opens up the back of the tree.  Leave your holding wood sorta on one side and the back.  And yes on a back leaner you may not be able to lift the tree or you will wear yourself out banging on wedges.  That was my biggest problem...experience cures the problem most quick.

I feel the biggest advantage to bore cutting is I'm in complete 100% control at all times if I put my hinge in right.  On a big tree where my bar won't reach through I'll bore in on the heavy side half way, cut to the back of the tree, and move to the light side to bore that half of the tree and cut to my back strap.  Might take 3 or 4 minutes...lot can happen in that time.  Pull the saw out and take a leisurely look around to make sure nobody has moved into the felling path of my tree.  Check my escape route to make sure its clear and maybe catch my breath.  Cut my back strap in 5 seconds and I'm outa there before the tree even starts to move.

We were also taught a special technique called the tongue and groove to cut the top off.  I've really pushed the envelope with this cut.  I'm cutting a good 60% of the tops off by boring and using a modified tongue and groove.  It has advantages for the lazy logger who hates a pushing bar. ;D

One thing to recognize...GOL is meant for logger's to do production felling in a safe way.  The training was never intended for the arborist that is trying to fell the problem or danger tree.  Even though both cut trees there is a huge difference in there methods and training.  Think this may answer Chet's question...no emphasis or training for felling the problem tree. 

[Kevin]

OSHA Quote ...

Quality control concerns with several companies dictate that only Humboldt undercuts are permissible with sawlog grade timber, so that wood loss is minimized by taking the notch wood out of the stump. Quality control often dictates that there must be a flush surface on the end of the log.

A lot of mis-conceptions

Larry, I don't think it's  mis-conceptions  ;D

[tmullen]

I am very interested in this training as I teach NWCG S-212 Wildfire Powersaws for firefighters. Is this training offered on the west coast? Is this training OSHA approved? ???
Has anyone here done the Douglas Dent Training ie. S-212? It's OK but needs updating again.

I have found that there are many ways to safely fall timber, it's up  to the faller to find the method that works best for them and safely acomplishes the goal. I like to work with other fallers to find tricks that have worked for them and keep the good one and chuck the bad ones. As my POP used to tell me, you can be young and fast at falling but you will not make it to be and old feller if you follow that path.

Learn all that you can, keep the good and chuck the bad.

As we say in the fire world
BE SAFE

[Dale Hatfield]

Yes the  212  and the game of logging are much the same with the exception , of the humbolt  But when in Rome.
Ken group In Wis.  has trained  for the 212 class.  Its a little different  more trees are cut, but the basics are still the same.

The humbolt and the open face was and will always be a great debate from coast to coast

The use of a bore cut .
By creating a bore cut, you establish a hinge of the correct thickness. To  fell the tree without fiber pull.
Fiber pull can create a hazard to the cutter.   The fiber pull also  can degrade the log .  can cause front of tree to split out/ a degrade by a hole in the log/ and split the log.
By just making a notch and a back . Its a race to the finish on forward leaning tree. It starts to fall before a  good hinge can be made. Results are barber chairs /fiber pull and split logs. The other thing is you have to stay at the base of the tree longer.  to keep cutting to make a hinge as the tree is tearing away.
  With the bore cut I regain control of when the tree starts to fall. which allows me to escape from the  stump area where the most  struck by accidents happen.


  Game Of Logging trainer
Dale Hatfield

[tmullen]

Dale

Thanks for the info. Is there a class some where out on this side of the north american dirt pile or is this class some thing more for east side logging. if so could I get some contact info as I may be able to get the government to pick up the tab for this class for my job. ;D ;D

Thanx

[bitternut]

Seems strange that osha would require humbolt notches on the left coast and require logger training that stressed open face notches on the right coast. All of the guys that took the level 3 class were loggers and were taking the class as an osha requirement. Oh yeah, now I know why.......they are a government agency.

Dale......since you are an instructor do you have any idea where I could get one of those sighting gauges for determining tree height and wedge height for back leaning trees? I have googled it to death and have come up empty so far.

[Kevin]

http://www.forestapps.com/cross_sight.html

Osha doesn't require the humboldt but rather stipulate what the demand might be within the industry.

[Phorester]

Ah yes, KEVIN, Tim Ard of Forest Applications.  I took two saw classes from him.  Very nice fellow and also his wife who came along with him for one of the courses. What an eye opener that first course was many years ago.  I'm using saws for forest fire work, not production cutting, so he geared both classes to our needs.  I also took the USFS S-212 class a few years after Tim's classes..

There was a local pulpwood cutter in the second class I took who was also the main sawyer on our fire crew.  He had been cutting trees for many years and of course had his own opinions.  He'd challenge Tim's "radical" ideas  and Tim would respond in a very respectful manner, shooting down the pulpwood guy's ideas every time.  After the course, the pulpwood cutter said, "that guy really knows his stuff.  I can use a lot of this training on my job".   Tim and his class had won over this sawyer who already had many years of daily chainsaw experience.

As many here have already said, if you use a chainsaw more than the casual weekend warrior-type homeowner, you need to take one of these courses.

[Dale Hatfield]

Dale......since you are an instructor do you have any idea where I could get one of those sighting gauges for determining tree height and wedge height for back leaning trees? I have googled it to death and have come up empty so far.

Here is the link to the GOL website.
The Pro Site is what you are looking for.
Bill Lindloff  would be your  local trainer. He should have them for sale . or call the main office at  1-800-252-2502
http://www.gameofloggingusa.com/Default.htm

[Dale Hatfield]

Dale

Thanks for the info. Is there a class some where out on this side of the north american dirt pile or is this class some thing more for east side logging. if so could I get some contact info as I may be able to get the government to pick up the tab for this class for my job. ;D ;D

Thanx

I'm afraid that  most of the training is done on this side of the big muddy. I know Soren  and Tim did some trainings out that way in the 90's. But i don't know what company's, Usually they trained at large paper and pulp mills. All the trainers were hand picked by Soren.
OSHA  approved,  yes the class follows the OSHA guidelines as we trained the OSHA  inspectors, then they re wrote the book.

Something to look for  Husky  just released a new glossy training book.  Pics and not drawings of the processes.   It will be a great aid  .

Dale

[bitternut]

Hey thanks for the link Dale. Turns out the office is only about 35 miles from my house. Called them and ordered the sighting gauge. Its on its way already. I will have to check out the new book you mentioned from Husky. Everything I have now is what I was able to commit to memory and I am not going to assume that will last forever. Sometimes I go to the basement and then wonder what the heck I went down there for.

[Larry]

OSHA  approved,  yes the class follows the OSHA guidelines as we trained the OSHA  inspectors, then they re wrote the book.

I had the extreme privilege of being trained by Soren.  As you know he is quite the story teller.  Soft spoken and the guys hang on every word when he tells a story.

One story he told about course development was how to start the chainsaw.  The forest industry said that's easy "just drop start it".  OSHA screamed "no way" that's one handed operation...you have to put the saw on the ground, foot through the handle, and start it that way.  So a compromise was reached where we can either start it on the ground or with the handle between the legs.

Soren I believe taught an advanced course for a while before quitting.  Is that still available and what is taught?