Home Brew Sawmill Updates Please

Shawn · March 25, 2006, 09:14:34 PM

Here's the weekly update.
I pickup my steel wednesday ( which cost more than the engine) and started cutting today. Tomorrow I'll finish cutting and get the welder hooked up. Oh yea, I might take the family out to a nice dinner. Almost forgot about them! My engine will be here April 11th. Now I just need to order a clutch & drive pulley, and make a lube system. I should be welding by next weekend. Pictures will be posted then. Stay tuned...
Shawn...

Trent · March 28, 2006, 11:02:18 PM

Carrage traversing under power! Got everthing hooked up and working. 6.5 HP w/ hydrostat unit has plenty of power and speed. Gigs back (20') in less than 10 sec. mounted seat at operator station. I'm worn out.

highpockets · March 30, 2006, 05:54:54 AM

Trent, we need a picture.

jrokusek · April 02, 2006, 08:44:59 PM

New and improved log stops. The original non-functional ones are near the beginning of this thread.

Stops down.

Stops partway up.

Closeup.

Time to break out the paint again.
Jim

Trent · April 02, 2006, 10:32:19 PM

Jim, Will you still use the cam lock feature? Trent

jrokusek · April 03, 2006, 12:07:02 AM

Yup. That was the only part of the application that actually worked well!

Jim

Shawn · April 09, 2006, 11:05:21 PM

................This Just In!!!..................

I'm almost ready for logs...In another month or so.
Here is a pic of the shaft couplings I bought from Surplus Center.

Here are my hub supports. Machinist at work done the mods for me. Popped them in the freezer for a couple hours and in they went. I used the shaft and key so keyways on supports would be aligned. Unfortunatly the hubs may be a little off. Shaft is binding a little & will not come out. Flange has a little runout but I think a shim might straighten that out.

The last 2 pics are what it will look like. This is upside down of course. Pillow blocks will hang from bottom. When I start welding my steel I may tack those hub supports to the hubs. I don't trust the set screws.

I'm using 1.25" Tubular steel gokart axle shaft. I could not find Steel shafts anywhere. BTW, I started my new engine today and when using my snapon tachometer it shows about 3400RPM's at idle and 7000 at wide open throttle. This cant be right, Could it?
Shawn...

jrokusek · April 09, 2006, 11:42:39 PM

That's a bit different than what I thought you were going to do. I thought you were going to use a long coupler to go completely through the hub. I like your idea better though :D

As far as the tach goes, I'm guessing you are using a single cylinder engine. I'm betting the tach is built for a 4 or 6 or 8 cylinder engine. Depending on where you are taking your reading it may be giving you skewed results. Of course I haven't hooked up a tach to an engine in about 15 years so I may be the one who is skewed.

Jim

jrokusek · April 09, 2006, 11:52:24 PM

I've been busy too. These new and improved log stops are MUCH better.

Jim

Shawn · April 10, 2006, 12:06:57 AM

Those look real good. I have designed log dogs but no clamps. I have been priming all my steel this week. Had to hear about the smell too!

Fla._Deadheader · April 11, 2006, 05:30:33 PM

Shawn, Ummmm, How ya gonna change the blades ?????? What's the other end of that frame look like ???

Is the photo of the idle side or the drive side ??? Where's yer adjustment for the tension ???

Maybe I'm just not seeing sumpin :

:

GF · April 12, 2006, 09:54:00 AM

Make sure to use pillow block bearings with eccentrical lock collars on them, since the hub is in the center and away from the bearings there will be some vibration created and the set screws will loosen up and cause the shaft to move in the bearings. Since the bearing races are mades of harder steel than the shaft the races will wear the shaft as it loosens.

Dont ask me how I kow this. ;)

Shawn · April 13, 2006, 11:46:27 AM

F/D,
Without getting into trouble, I will tell you that I sort of, In a round-a-bout way, reverse engineered a oscar 30. I was going to buy one, then started pricing supplies. Saving $$$$$$$$$$$. These photos were to show setup. That is the drive side, but they'll be closer together.

GF,
I am using pillow blocks with ecentric locking collars from cooks. Cost a couple dollars more but saved on shipping when I bought my blades. I don't know if this will be a problem, but the bearings will swivel in the blocks. Their not the pressed in type. Opinions Please.

Shawn...

Larry · April 13, 2006, 12:35:57 PM

I've had failure exactly as GF described with both standard and eccentric lock collar pillow blocks. Talked with my mill manufacture...they came up with a new idea some 6 years ago. They use 2 long set screws with a lock nut. Also drill the shaft about 1/8" deep for the set screw. Loctite everything down and they report zero failures in 6 years.

So...I put in two new shafts, along with four new pillow blocks this winter when I broke down. Remind me in 10 years and I'll tell ya if it is a good fix. ;D

Trent · April 16, 2006, 07:22:17 PM

Finally took the time (with Furby's help) to upload some pics on the Forum Gallery. Finishing up guides, about to start safety guards, then dogs/stops, paint. Trent