LT 30 Improvements?

[Bob_T]

I've been looking at some early 1980's LT30's.  I know that some improvements have been made over the years and the two biggest I think are the longer bed and wider log cutting ability.  There are some pretty good instructions I found in older threads for extending the bed length.  I'm wondering about increasing the log width?  I think the early LT30's were rated for a 24" log and that went up to 30" and then 36"

Is it practical to extend the cutting head length on an older LT30 to allow it to hander wider logs or are there other changes that would have to made?

Appreciate any comments.

Thanks,

Bob

[musikwerke]

My 1987 catalog lists the LT30 at a capacity of 16'-8" and 30" diameter.  Don't know how you'd increase the cutting width.

[Jeff]

My 86 only allows you to cut within 3 inches of the bed. I know that had been inproved, but I dont know what year.

[Engineer]

My 86 only allows you to cut within 3 inches of the bed. I know that had been inproved, but I dont know what year.

That's the #1 flaw with my mill, in my opinion.  I don't get a lot of big logs so the width issue isn't there.

[Dan_Shade]

what keeps you from going within 3 inches?

[Engineer]

The blade guides hit stuff.  It's been so long since I ran the saw that I don't exactly recall what they hit.  I think the one on the head side hits the rail, and the outboard side hits the cross supports.  They hang down too low.

Actually, I think mine will go to 2", but that's not enough.  The prior owner had bolted 1" thick strips of white oak the the bed rails so that he could go all the way to 1", but it made his scale way off.  I suppose a field modification could be done, bolt on some 1" tubing and rub rails, and re-attach the scale.  I'd honestly never considered a field modification, I don't like to do them because I always look at resale value.  I wasn't keeping this one forever.  In this case it might be a plus.  I have a particular fondness for quartersawn wood, and it bugs me that I can't get down to an inch to quartersaw off the bed like the newer mills can.

[musikwerke]

There must have been some substantial changes made in 1987?  My 1987 LT30 would cut to 1 inch - that is, until I retrofitted it with the new High Performance Blade Guides ; the ones with the Lube-miser nozzle block and bottom guides.  After doing that I could only go down to 1-1/4".  I was going to live with it and just use 1/4" spacers (plywood) underneath the last board when I wanted to cut that final 1 inch board.  It was bugging me though so yesterday I did a retrofit of my own.  The center adjustable log clamp ( the one with 2 bolts ) was the problem.  The drive side blade guide would hit it if I went below 1-1/4 inches.  I only needed a little more clearance so I 'shaved' 1/2 inch off the outside of the clamp and made a strong bevel to the upper edge of the cut.  This gave me a 3/8" by 1/2" "groove" for the blade guide to pass through. (Thank God for plasma cutters!)  Now the only thing I have to remember is to open the movable blade guide out beyond the cam part of the log clamp when cutting a 1 inch board.  The movable blade guide will clear the arm but not the cam part of the clamp.

[Bob_T]

My 86 only allows you to cut within 3 inches of the bed. I know that had been inproved, but I dont know what year.

There is an old thread that covers the improvements - I think it might have  been '87.  Just wondering, since I know you collect old stuff, is your '86 a working saw, or part of your "antique" collection?  I ran across a picture of your old Russian chainsaw.  I was working in Ethiopia (formerly under the Soviet Empire influence) and took some pictures of an old Russian saw very similar, if not identical to yours.  If I ever get caught up I'll post some pictures.

Back to improving an '83 LT30, if someone wanted to bad enough  and was a capable welder I don't see why the saw head bar couldn't be extended, kind of like putting a longer  bar on a chainsaw, so that it could cut wider than 24".  Then you'd need a longer blade of course.

Bob

[Jeff]

Oh yes, Its a working saw and cuts very well. It even has a name or two. Slush-mizer or Slushi for short  and sometimes its known as the food-mizer







I would be leery of extending the cababilities of the sawhead without several major engineering changes.  changing weights on the outboard end of the cantilevered head I would think could bring up issues regarding bearing and support strengths.


On cutting down to 3 inches on the 86, the biggest and most noticeable problem is the frame in relation to the battery box. when the head comes down it sits right on the box.

  Here are two photos.  First one shows the head up just a little and then down where is contacts the box.

[Bob_T]

Jeff,

Thanks for taking the time to post the photos, they explain a lot.

Bob