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any thoughts?

Started by woodmills1, June 25, 2006, 10:13:33 AM

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woodmills1

The key is stuck in the ignition switch on my tractor and it is in the on position.  It will turn to start but not to off.  Being a deisel I was able to sut the motor down, and I disconnected the battery to stop the power drain, but no amount of wiggling or force will turn it back to off.  Any ideas?
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

johnjbc

First I would try a Graphite based Loc Lube and taping it with a very light hammer to see if you can get the tumblers loose.
If that doesn't help then buy a new lock. You can probably find a generic one at a reasonable price.
LT40HDG24, Case VAC, Kubota L48, Case 580B, Cat 977H, Bobcat 773

DanG

"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Sawyerfortyish

If johns idea doesn't work your hammers not big enough ;D

Gary_C

Get a new one!  

Even if you can force it back, you cannot trust it anymore. Those switches have many moving parts inside and are made CHEAP. Something is not right and even if you get it back to off, it will do it again.

You can find generic ign switches, but chances are you will have to redo the wiring harness to make it work.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

rebocardo

Don't turn it to the off position!

Most ignition switches are designed to be removed easily only with them in the ON/Start position. This includes both column and dash mount units. Most ignition switches are designed so the key can not be removed unless in the off position. Most ignition switches are $10 so it is not worth the hassle of another broken key for $10.

If you want to remove the key itself. That is a bit tricky. You need to turn it to the off position. You can usually force a pair of needle nose at the top and bottom of the key to turn the switch.

Once that is done, what you need is to be able to grab on the end with a thin pair of needle nose or surgical tweezers. If you have a lock pick set, you might be able to get a thin pick over the tumblers and pull the key chunk back from the back if everything is not rusted up. I think the lock pick set sold at northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company has a tool just for this.

You might try a paperclip, bend the end very slightly, and angle it in from the top and try to grab the key near the first available tumbler.

In the future, if you are hanging a large key ring from the ignition ring, is to change the key every year or so. What happens is you hang a pound of jouncing keys off a piece of brass and after it bends the key a few thousand times it snaps like a coat hanger at the stress point, inside the ign. switch.

twoodward15

what kind of tractor???
108 ARW   NKAWTG...N      Jersey Thunder

Left Coast Chris

I've had the stuck key problem before and simply gave the slot two quick shots of carburator cleaner.  I was careful to let it dry out well prior to attempting to use it.  The ignition switch is still working today.  It was gummed up inside and just needed a little cleaning. 

Its worth a try.
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

trim4u2nv

I own a locksmith company and this type of failure is pretty common.  Is the keyhole offset from center of the lock?  If it is, then you have a sidebar lock that should probably be replaced.  Usually there are two springs that counterbalance the sidebar.  They are staked in and if one pops loose, the sidebar will not drop in causing the lock to work erratically.

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