Wood-Mizer and Suffolk Arranged Blade System Marriage

[jpgreen]

I built this bench for my Suffolk Machinery blade setter, and when I brought out my Wood-Mizer sharpener to set it up, I thought hmmm... why can't I mount them on the same bench?  ??? :P ;D

So I removed one of the far end blade support sanctions, and dropped the Wood-Mizer in the bench, at the same guide level. Works Great!  One bench- full blade service...  8)  8)  8)











Got the setter dialed in yesterday, and it works like gangbusters.  Started on the sharpener today, and I think I have a good handle on it. I'm running the wheel dry for now, and taking off very little with multiple runs.

Only thing is the inside of the blade band edge in the gullets and the tooth leaves an edge burr.  The out (side)  edge is pretty smooth.  Is this normal?

Also what's the preffered way to go... setting first then sharpening, or the other way around?

[Sprucegum]

Sorry I don't have any answers for you but I do have a question-

What kind of cutting oil needs ice cubes?   ???

[jpgreen]

That's my ice beer, forgot to stick some in the fridge..  ;D

[Tom]

That's a pretty handy table.  I'll bet it won't be long before you have another table in service.  You'll find that you can be setting a blade while one is sharpening.  You'll set faster than you'll sharpen so you'll need a setting table and a sharpening table.

The burr is normal.

I set before I sharpen.  Why?   Because the blade is already deburred from using it.  That saves me the time of deburring and insures that I didn't miss a burr.

If you sharpen and then set, you need to get rid of that burr before setting.  The recommended way is to wipe it with a hardwood stick.  Try it and you will see why I prefer to bypass that operation.

By setting and then sharpening I get to bed earlier.



Woodbowl just IM'd me that this is my post 14444.  That's a lot of fours, doncha know?

[jpgreen]

Thanks Tom,

I need the space now, so the table will work good.  I can see when I get to be a saw millin' fool I'll need another table.

Milled up some dry Doug Fir and it sliced through real well.  Specially after I replaced the feed switch.

One thing though...

Why are the log stops curved on the on the inside against the log?  These ones have been cut into, and are out of alignment.  Shouldn't they be square with the deck?  When I clamp small cant, it wants to tilt it, instead of holding it square down on the deck.

I think I'm gonna replace those, and make them square to hold a 90 dgr angle.

[Percy]

Heya JP.
What can you tell me about the setter. I see its the newest revision. I dont have one but am considering getting one. I need somthing quicker than the WM setter and I hear your unit is fast(according to the advertisement). Does it measure up to their claims??(LT40 band in 2 miniutes??). If it does, Im getting one... ;D

[jpgreen]

Percy-

Yes a few minuets would do it. What I'm finding so far is it is consistently accurate unless the tip of the tooth is taller, or shorter from one to another.  That changes the pitch a few thousands.

Stands to reason when you think about it.  Since it is pushing the tooth over with a cam, if the tooth is taller, you get more set.  If a tooth is shorter you get less set.  That's measuring with a dial indicator on the tip. So if you use a new blade, with all the same height teeth, then the sets will be the same all the way through.

Another thing that regulates accuracy with this unit is using the same down pressure with the handle each time, thereby consistently working with the same movement.  It's like using a manual powder measure when reloading.  You use the same stroke of the handle (as well as you're able), same pressure and force, and this gives you a consistent measure of powder.

A guy that's ham handed, and pays no attention to detail will have a different result if at one stroke he leans on it, and then the next he time he barely pushes.

What I have done, and what they suggest is you index the blade with one hand, and work the setting handle with the other.

With a Woodmizer setter, I can see where you can tailor each tooth regardless of height, with the dial indicator and crank it exactly to your spec, but that takes time.

I found by setting an old blade with various tooth heights, produced change in the set by .002-.003 thousands in the shorter or taller teeth but most where still dead on, but who cares?  When you can set fast, and set more often with this unit, I think that's what counts.  The blade is cutting hard dry Doug Fir very well, and the cuts are pretty darn smooth.

I like the fact that the Suffolk sets from both ends at the same time, which puts an even amount of force on the blade. It indexes the blade solid and square. It was easy to set up, and I like the adjustments. I had no problem with the instructions and illustrations.  It is a fine piece, well machined, and well made.

It's obviously not cheap, but I think it's worth the money.  Specially when you consider the work and time saved.

[logwalker]

On the backstops, JP. Can you be more specific on the curve you refer to? Mine are angled at the top but the face of the stop is flat and set at 90 deg. to the bunks. How are yours? How about a pic? LW

[jpgreen]

Mine are not flat on the face like yours LW. They taper up like a Christmas tree. 
It don't know why?  Couldn't be wear I wouldn't think. 

They would work, if I could turn them around.
I dunno- the previous owner has done some screwy stuff with this mill.

[Tom]

Nothing wrong with your stops, "dogs", "Squaring dogs" or what ever you want to call them, that some adjustment won't take care of.

The two hydraulic dogs operate together and should be at a 90° to the bed.  there are adjustments at the base on the pivot point. You will notice that there is a piece of metal with a groove that creates a cam like effect.  The operators manual has instructions on how to square the squaring dogs.  The "christmas tree" look is normal.  You just make the mill side square with the deck.

That the cant is not square could be a result of a misaligned or worn clamp too.  There is a thread on here, just recently, inside of year, that describes one persons efforts.

The top of the dogs are sloped to make the cant or  log slip and begin turning instead of climbing over the top.

The newer models had wheels at the top of the dogs.

You use the hydraulic dogs and the manual dogs independent of one another.  Don't try to line up all four dogs with each other, it can't be done and wasn't meant to be. 

[jpgreen]

OK-

Thanks for telling me.  I though both manual and hydraulic were supposed to lign up.

I'm reading more of the manual today, and going through the alignment.

You autta get a royalty check from Wood-Mizer Tom..  :D

[mike_van]

Nice bench jp - not enough "clutter" on it yet -  As in - i'll just set this here, and, I don't have a place for this....yet, you know how that goes -

[jpgreen]

You should see it now.

I should post a "clutter" pic...  :D

[woodbowl]

Another thing that regulates accuracy with this unit is using the same down pressure with the handle each time, thereby consistently working with the same movement. .....no attention to detail will have a different result if at one stroke he leans on it, and then the next he time he barely pushes.

Jp, I put a adjustment bolt and a stop plate on my WM setter. After the first few teeth I turn up the wick and forward the handle, advance 3 teeth, forward handle, advance 3 - forward-3-forw-3-forw-3 ... at the rate of one set per second. accurancy = .002

I used to think I needed Suffolks setter. Not any more, it flys!   8)

[jpgreen]

Well Olen ya goin' to keep it all to yourself?

Post some pics of that modified contraption!!..  ;D

[woodbowl]

I knew that was comming. I think I have a shot of it somewhere, if not I'll take some.  ;)

[logwalker]

JP, could you post some pics of those stops. I am curious. LW

[jpgreen]

I should be able to today.

I'm aligning the mill, and all of the adjusting bolts under the rails are rusted solid. Some are shot.

I may heat some and re-use them, but I think I'm going to take the cutting torch to em' and fabricat some new ones.  They want bout' $12 bucks a peice and I ain't paying $100 for stop bolts.. :