long chain loosening

jdunmyer · December 25, 2006, 03:56:09 PM

I have a Stihl 056 AV Super saw with a 60" bar that has a helper handle on the far end. We use this for cutting slab wood that's on the slab buggy:
http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/sawmill/mar31_08.jpg
This works really well; we saw for 2 or 3 hours, then cut the slabwood and stack it on a pallet. However, there's a slight problem:

The chain seems to loosen at an alarming rate, it literally must be tightened every time we cut slabwood, and that amounts to maybe 5 minutes of cutting time. The tightening is done by moving the helper handle, not at the saw per the usual procedure.

Any ideas?

MDP · December 25, 2006, 06:01:43 PM

With that long of a bar you have a lot more drive links in the mix and I would guess stretching could be an issue, however yours seems maybe a little excessive. First I would make sure it's getting plenty of oil to the bar and chain, next what type of chain are you running? Oregon and Carlton are known for stretching a little more. Sometimes a brand new chain will stretch a lot in the begining and taper off as it wears in. Try not to run the chain super tight you will stretch it faster doing that, just snug to the bar is about right. Also make sure that your adjuster isn't backing off on its own.
Eventually you will run out of adjustment and you'll have to take a link out, I hope that is not too much of a hassle for you.

jdunmyer · December 25, 2006, 07:26:05 PM

I was kinda thinking the same thing about the long chain. It's whatever Zip Power Products was selling at the time, I made it up myself. Having the breaker and rivet spinner, it's no problem removing a link or 2. I don't THINK the adjustment is slipping, but will mark the bar next time to make sure.

FWIW: When I got that bar, it didn't have the oil hole at all. I drilled it myself, using a carbide burr meant for use in a die grinder. A drill bit wouldn't touch it.

The oil reservoir needs filling every time I fuel the saw, so it must be going someplace. :-) I use plain ol' motor oil, after trying some bar oil and not seeing much if any difference. NEW motor oil, mind you, I'm not THAT cheap.

Kevin · December 25, 2006, 08:14:36 PM

I would guess you are raising the bar nose when tensioning the chain?
Use lots of chain lube, if you tighten a hot chain and then allow it to cool on the saw it will tighten up really tight which isn't good for the crank seals.

MDP · December 26, 2006, 12:08:55 AM

Motor oil works in a pinch, true bar oil has additives that help the oil strick to the bar and chain and not fly off when the chain is turning at 60mph, motor oil just doesn't stay where it needs to. Ripping is probably one of the hardest things on a chainsaw, bar and chain I would maybe go back to true bar oil that way your giving the chain the best chance not to stretch.

Mark

Al_Smith · December 26, 2006, 07:07:50 AM

I just reread the first post in this thread about having to redrill the oil hole in the bar.It could possibley be that the oil is not getting to the bar properly .

Just ten minutes ago I made a similar post on another site.Often times a through hole will allow oil to just drbble out the other side of the bar and not much get on the chain.A simple fix,if this is the case is using a beverage can,soft drink or otherwise and making a type of gasket to block this hole on the outside of the bar.

60" of chain is a bunch.There are a lot of links to stretch there.Cutting at a straight 90 degrees to the grain puts the max amount of heat into the chain,it can't be helped.I'm not much for chainsaw milling but found a little trick.If you can do your cut with a little angle to the grain,it cuts easier and much faster.