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Re-sawing with a Swingmill

Started by Firebass, March 28, 2007, 11:23:36 PM

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Firebass

I am learning to use my swing mill and I was wondering if any of you have some tricks to sawing up that last 2 or 3 inch piece.   Or is it best to roll the log 180 degrees in the beginning after decking the top off so you have a usable slab at the end.   I am using log dogs on metal rails.

Thanks
Firebass

Ianab

One thing you can do is to drag that bottom slab aside and load / saw the next log. When you have sawn that down to a slab, flip the previous slab back upside down on top of the current slab. Leave a lip on the edge of the bottom slab to help hold the resawn slab in place. Lift the mill 2", cut the waste off the top, drop back to the original height and just edge the slab. Hopefully you have a nice 2x??
Removing the bottom slab earlier will leave you with more slab to play with, and let you cut a full width live edge slab + a few good boards when you flip and reload it. I find it more practical to do it this way as moving the log after it's only 10% sawn, that can be hard work.

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Nate Surveyor

If you are sawing 10-20 logs in one place, just stack up the leftovers, and then, when you have a nice stable log, with a flat top, and a flat left side, take a screw gun, and screw on several pieces of scrap onto the left, and end of the log.

Then, you can cut right through those scraps, (screws are at least 1" BELOW the top of the flat top log) And the scraps will keep the flat pieces from skooting down the log, or to the left. Cut them all off at 1" or 1.5" or 2". It seems to work ok when cleaning up after a big pile of logs are done. Also, keep a broom handy to sweep the top of the flat top log clean. (Actually I have my handy dandy leaf blower doing that, but I think a broom would do good too!)

Best Regards,

Nate
I know less than I used to.

Firebass

I think I get the Idea.  I'll have to try those tips.  So, just to clarify If I'm reading this right.  I should try to saw down to leave enough to saw out a single 2x6, 1x6, or whatever then set them aside and re-saw when I get a stack and a good slab to work off.  Sound simple and effective. 

I was thinking I would end up with tons of firewood with a sawmill.  And I most likely will, but I am amazed how little waste there is.  Not enough for firewood if you make every cut count and don't mind 1x4's.  If I want firewood I may have to get a little sloppier on my cuts. :-\

Thanks

NZJake

Arrange your bunks like this...

Opposite side of the log, bolt a larger 2x4 or 1x4 board onto your bunk.
This will allow your right side dogs to be positioned higher.

Once your low enough to do your last layer, remove the dogs located on your walk side.
Effectively you will be left with 2 dogs on the right of the log positioned higher.

Traditionally you leave the right edge of your slab ledge when your near the bottom of the log, stops the slab from sagging while you cut.

Because this ledge is left uncut, your 2 dog's tips will remain in this region. Being positioned higher they will effectively stop rotation, side to side and some vertical bounce tendancies.

I ussually get right down skimming the wooden bunks, the only bit left out of the slab is ussually that little bit of ledge material which the right side dogs are stuck in.

Worst case scenerio you might hit the dogs, being alloy they are safe enough to cut through (you won't loose any teeth if your feed speed is slow).

Remember to recess any screws or nails you might use on the bunks.

Check these pics out. This is what I've found to be the best way to recover all of your slab.


Wife says I woke up one morning half asleep uttering thin kerf and high production, I think I need a hobby other than milling?

Captain

Jake's recommendations work well with clamp on style aluminum dogs.  Firebass has his steel dogs setup on steel cross skids.  I usually run dogless in square edged notches in wooden bunks.  I usually elevate the right side of the bunkwith a 2x4 so it is slightly slanted.  I kiss the bunks with the blade on the last cuts, and usually don't have anything to resaw after.

Captain

Firebass

Just for fun I think I'll try the wood bunks.   I can lay them between my rail's or dog them in place.  It would be a good experiment.   

Thanks Again
Firebass

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