Converting Wood Mizer from portable to stationery

[Dave Shepard]

I would like to take the axle off of our LT40. It was moved into the mill building when it was new, and hasnt been moved since. I hate tripping over the wheels. I know that we need to anchor it to the floor as large logs can flip the mill when they come off the log deck. Has anyone ever done this? I am thinking of putting anchor bolts in the concrete through all of the outrigger pads. Any advice? Thanks.


Dave

[MartyParsons]

To remove the axle, raise the front support up and keep the next legs in place and bring the saw head toward the front. The weight will lift the rear of the saw up and the bolts can easily be removed form the axle and roll it away from the mill frame. Please think safely. You can purchase stationary legs from Wood-Mizer or weld plates to the existing legs ( supports) I have seen customers drill holes in the existing legs and install thunder studs expanding bolts into floor.  ( not sure the proper name)

[Dave Shepard]

Thanks Marty. I wasn't sure if the existing legs were sufficient. I was planning on drilling the existing feet and using hilti fasteners to attach them to the floor. It will make life a lot easier in the mill, both for working around it and sweeping under it. We debark on the mill, so there is always a ton of stuff on the floor. We try to sweep everyday, we worry about fire.


Dave

[Faron]

Would chaining the mill to the floor on the loader side instead of bolting the legs work?  Once in a while a log hammers pretty hard when we load.  It seems that sideways thrust would be pretty hard on the legs.  I was thinking of running the chains at an angle so they are pulling down and to the left of the mill.  Maybe do both?

[shopteacher]

I was thinking of doing the same thing, but thought I might have to add a leg or two on the side where the wheel is on the operator side.  I thought of putting them on 45 deg. to the frame so they wouldn't extend out to far and putting them at both ends then fastening them all down with expanding anchors.

[Dave Shepard]

I was also thinking of chaining, I think Bibbymans mill is chained on the loader side due to not having concrete in the mill shed. I do need to anchor this somehow. Big logs tend to shove the mill towards the edger, and then you have to slide it back.


Dave

[logwalker]

I put my LT40 on a deck with some treated 6x6" as stingers It extended about 4 feet on the operator side. The two stringers that lined up with the log loaders extended out enough to support the loader feet. I bolted and chained the loader feet to the stringers and because they extend 4' on the operator side there isn't much chance that the mill can go over. I also placed a stringer at each outrigger foot. It is real pleasant to run the mill on the deck also. Joe

[maineframer]

Logwalker,

That sounds really great. Do you have any pictures that you could post?

[Bibbyman]

Here are some early pictures of our LT40 Super without axle bolted to oak 2x12s.  I also added chains on the front side down to anchors about.  They were about 4" diameter by about 3' long – if my memory serves.

I've rocked it an number of times turning big logs and not had it fall over yet. 

Here is the link to the post I made when we first got and installed our LT40HDE25-RA mill.

Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25-RA First impressions

[logwalker]

Lots of debris around the loader feet at the moment. Will take pics after I clean up. Pretty easy to do. Just layout the crossbeams to align with support legs and one each under the loader feet. Those are longer than the rest to extend under the loaders. Slap a chain around them or thru bolt and it won't go anywhere. Drill the rest of the support legs and lag into the crossbeams. My mill shed is on a slight incline so it worked well to add the 8 inches to the floor height.

[sparks]

You NEVER EVER want to set up a Wood-Mizer mill, stationary, using the adjustable legs. You need to purchase the staionary legs or weld your adjustable legs so that they are rigid and have no movement. Wood-Mizer does not recommend adjustable legs on a stationary mill.   Thanks

[LT40HDD51]

I think Sparks is thinking the same thing I am. Ive had our mill set up portable and after a day or two of wiggling from loading logs, the pin holding one of the jack legs has wiggled out and dropped a hole. Kinda startles you, and can put the mill off-level causing the head to roll by itself. Id  get it all set up and shimmed level, tap the leg into the center of the piece it slides in and weld all four sides solid. Might wanna get some stationary legs to swap in if you ever forsee wanting it portable again... ;D