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Hello, Another Alaskan Mill Question?

Started by emasterson, March 24, 2008, 12:57:19 PM

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emasterson

Hello All,
I have been bouncing around for a while, great site, great info!!! This is my first post, I tried to do my research before I posted to the site, here we go ... after much thought and account balance review, I have decided on a Stihl MS 660 w/ 36" bar & a 36" Alaskan MKIII CSM with oiler assembly. Most of what I will be milling the next few years are clean, straight, mature eastern white pine and the occational oak for timberframing projects. Other than felling the 660 will be a milling machine, I have a 361 for all of my smaller felling, bucking, trimming & firewood projects.

Questions on milling with the 660:
1.) Gauge - 0.050" vs. 0.063"?
2.) Pitch 3/8" vs. 0.404"?
3.) Clutch Sprocket - 7 tooth vs. 8 tooth?
4.) Bar sprocket nose teeth - 11 vs 13?
5.) Chain - Stihl RSC @ 5° vs. Stihl Super L Full Skip Klassic @ 5° vs. Ripping Chain from Baileys$$$ .........?
6.) Bailey's Aluminum rails vs. 2x homemade rails?
7.) I will be ordering through Baileys, the mill is identifed as a 36" Alaskan Mill, I cannpt find anywhere on the web site or in the catalog where it is called a MKIII, is it the same thing?

I have reveiwed past postings and there are some conflicting views on this issue, hopefully I don't stur up any arguments:o) I would appreciate any insite to these questions, I was reluctant to post but my sleepless nights toiling over this is killing me, I am ready to squeeze the trigger I just need a little persuation!

Hopefully you will be hearing from me in the Logging & Timberframing posts later this spring and summer.

Enjoy the woods!!!

beenthere

Welcome to the forum.
Where are you located, and what size/species of trees do you have to work with?

The 36" bar seems a bit shy in length...not sure what the max cut would be...and then accounting for some logs that are not so straight in the rough.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

emasterson

Thanks, I am located in upstate NY in the Schoharie Valley, I will be milling both at home and a shared woodlot in the Adirondacks, mostly milling Eastern White Pine, Oak, & Soft Maple to get started, I will be getting to some ash and locust also.

I was considering the 48" bar but thought I would be limiting myself when it comes to smaller logs, 16", 18", 22" etc... There are trees I would like to mill over the 36" in the Adirondack woodlot, but I was going to get started with the 36" and progress from there.

sawguy21

Welcome aboard, pull up a stump and stay awhile. You will lose about 2" of bar length on the mill so your maximum board width will be about 34". The longer bar will work on smaller logs, the mill is adjustable, but it will be a bit awkward. The Granberg rails are a nice touch but a couple of straight 2x4's will work just as well. An auxiliary oiler would be good, they have the kit or make one from an oil bottle, ball valve and some plastic tubing
You will definitely want the ripping chain, crosscut such as the RSC will not do well here, and the 7T sprocket would be a good choice along with 3/8 chain. Gauge won't make much difference, go with what is readily available. Have fun and don't forget the camera. We like pictures. ;D
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

oldsaw

You will want a 42" bar for the 36" mill.  I run a combination of some converted Stihl skip chain and Bailey's.  I'd just run the Bailey's, it works well and is very durable.  Yes, 3/8" is all I run, and I have been satisfied with it for the past 5 years I've been milling.  I run .063 because the bars that came with my 066 were .063.  Otherwise, run either one.

When you put your Bailey's order together, order an Oregon 42" Power Match bar, 3 loops of chain (136 dl, although the bar says 135, it's not...don't ask me how I know).  Run a 7 tooth rim (buy a couple of those, they are cheap), the mill, the auxiliary oiler (cheap bar and chain insurance).  When you get your 660, get it with a 24" bar which will be your utility set up for bucking.  The 36 will work fine, I just get tired of swinging it, and the 24" is a blast and a half.

You are on the right path.  I can't comment on the Alaskan rails, look nice, but I'm too cheap.

Mark
So many trees, so little money, even less time.

Stihl 066, Husky 262, Husky 350 (warmed over), Homelite Super XL, Homelite 150A

zopi

I have a 36"/660 and an alaskan III...works well..but get the 42" for the  36" mill..you won't always need it,
but it is there when you come across that monster oak...plus it helps offset the weight of the saw head a little...

I use stock stihl chain...finish is a little rougher than milling chain, but it isn't the pain in the butt that milling chain is...never tried skip tooth..

as long as you are having fun with the CSM..do not go near a band mill...trust me...you will write a big check. <G>
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