Rip blade

[D._Frederick]

I have been using a combination blade for riping, but have to run everything over the jointer to get a smooth surface for glueing.

What type of tooth shape would you get, a flat top grind or a triple chip?  Would you get a regular blade or the thin kerf blade.  My PM has a 2 hp motor and most of my cuts are under 2 inch thick.

[Dan_Shade]

Have you tried a good blade?

I was amazed at how smooth a Forrest Woodworkers II left a board.

[D._Frederick]

My wood working is a non- profit hobby and I try not spending more than $50 for a 10 inch blade. For a US made blade, you are looking at $200+.

[Dan_Shade]

You can get a good woodworker II blade for around $100.  I've seen them for under $100, I thought it was grizzly, but they are slightly higher now.

I didn't realize how nice a good blade was until I used one.  I don't think you're going to get where you want to be with a <$50 blade

[thedeeredude]

As far as I'm concerned freud blades can't be beat for the price.  With a 2hp motor I'd get  a full kerf.  I had a freud rip blade, I think it was 20 tooth, and it cut quick and was relatively smooth.  Not a finish you could use right off the saw though. 

[D._Frederick]

My combination blade is Freud and it has given me good service. I have quite a bit of un-edged hardwood that I would like to try a rip blade on to rough size  it.  Freud has both a flat grind and a triple chip grind rip blades. Which would you buy?

[beenthere]

Am I hearing this right, that you want to rip un-edged hardwood boards and get a saw cut that is gluable?
Or just to rough-size the un-edged and get a straight-line rip?

Your last post seemed to change the train of thought originally coming from the first post.  :

[D._Frederick]

I rough saw to 1/2 inch oversize, flatten on jointer, run thru the planer for correct thickness, then saw to correct size. If I need to glue-up, then need to run over jointer again.

Am looking for a rip blade that will do all the above and not need jointer for last operation. I get tired changing the blade.

Thats how I do sizing, how do you do it if you have a better idea?

[beenthere]

I think of un-edged lumber as having wane (bark edges) on. From your plan to joint first, then plane, then rip to width, __ I'm thinking you have already removed the wane and are working with rough, but edged, lumber (no bark).

For edge gluing, I don't skip the edge jointing step. I'm also interested in how one might avoid that step. 

[thedeeredude]

What little edge joining I did, the finish right off the saw was acceptable.  Im sorry but I didn't understand your first question.  I never used a triplechip grind and from what I read it is more for melamine and very very hard woods.  The blade I had was a flat top grind and if you're using domestic hardwoods, thats what I would buy.  A blade like this is what I had
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16444

I got mine at a local store.  I think I used a thin kerf but my saw is low power, with a 2hp powermatic and 3/4" thick woods, you can easy handle the full kerf.  It seems the blades went up in price a little since I bought my last.  I still think they're a great deal.  Bottom line, 24tooth flat top grind, full kerf.  You'll be up to your ears in sawdust before ya know it.