problems with old growth SYP

[WDH]

It is interesting that Foresters rail about high stumps to loggers.  They want the stumps cut as low as possible to reduce site prep costs.  Then, the mills rail about the flared butts and how they mess up the computer scanners that determine the sawing solution if the loggers cuts the stumps low.  Then the band millers don't like the wood at the butt of the tree because of how it saws. 

Nobody likes big butts but the Foresters  :D.

[Magicman]

And the landowners if they are selling by weight.  Butts weight too.   ;)   

[dad2nine]

I have a band mill and boy can relate to the problems mentioned - I also like to saw with the little end up at the head. I never knew why the blade would dive about 6 ~ 8 from the end of the cut. After several attempts, I gave up on SYP. Only because I never could get it right. I have a buddy who also runs a band mill and claims he can saw SYP - so I broke down and bought some from him. Needless to say the boards looked l sawed them :D and it made me feel a lot better...

My opinion here... so no flames please - I think SYP is best sawed on a circular mill. I say this only because I also have a few buddies that run circular mills and they can cut some of the best SYP you've put a eye on... I refer all the SYP calls I get to them.

[paul case]

Here is an example of the band following the stresses of compression wood in the butt.



I would prefer that the log not be cut so low to the ground.  Leave this junk on the stump.

when i first started i encountered this problem with some small post oaks . i thought it might be my blade sharpening but i noticed it still did this on some logs even with a new blade. i am glad you posted this,because i didnt know. thanks  pc

[customsawyer]

Danny are you trying to overload my low brain power.  ;D Well it worked if that was the game plan.
There is some wood that will give trouble no matter which end you try to saw from. In the explanation that was given that the blade cut fine then started to dive I would lean toward heat in the the blade which will lower blade tension since he said that the blade was sap free.

[Don K]

Hey dad, I wish you lived close to me. I love to saw SYP. I like it better than hardwood. ;D

Don

[Magicman]

I think SYP saws like $$$.   ;)    :D

[paul case]

magic,
you know the easiest and most sure way to double your$ is to fold them in half and put them back in your pocket!!! pc

[HD]

Magicman, thanks for the pictures. I think u always say (if you don't take a picture it didn't happen, or something like that).What set are you useing? Ladylake said to use around 28.
Cutomsawyer. If the blade is heating up would u say that was a lube problem? I have no build up or belt slipping marks on the blade.
I took a few blades to my shapener guy and he going to put 28 set on a few blades and then I'm going to try that on these logs. I have around 2 doz logs to finish. However...
I think I have had a mistake with the mill. I just could't believe it was the blade so I started looking at the mill adjusments. I never had to adjust much on the mill so it new to me. I made minor adjustments according to my manual. Now I think i have things out of wack with it. I been on phone with manufacter for last two days and still having problems. Still doing the diving thing. I should have waited until I got back blades with diff. set on them and try that first. I got to many irons in the fire so I was trying to rush things. Deer (bow)season started and i wanted to go yesterday but wanted to get log problems solved. Can't sleep very good cause it bothers me that I'm having problems with the mill. It's the main thing that is on my mind and want to get it solved and move on to other things. Thanks for the replies and interesting comments.

[ladylake]

 I run 1/4" down pressure with the guide wheels. If your running less than that give that a try.   Steve

[Magicman]

HD, I use 10° blades and send them to WM for ReSharp.

[customsawyer]

If the blade is heating up it can be caused by a few different things one is to little lube but if that is the case you should also see some sap build up so I would lean towards the shape of the gullet of the blade in that it is filling up and the sawdust is over flowing in to the next gullet and it just gets worse and worse the longer the cut is. The sawdust flowing over your tooth will fill up the kerf that in turn will make the blades get warm to the touch as there is no clearance. When you finish a cut turn the mill off and see if the blade is warm to the point that you can't keep your hand on it.