"Chattering" during bore cuts

[aldo]

I can't help with the chattering except to say I have a little Husky 142 that I use with a 16 inch Husky bar which has a small radius tip and for some reason it chatters on bore cuts too. I have no idea why but the problem is lessened when I use a new chain, still there but less. My hand filing has never given me any problems before or on any other saw I have. All the other bar tips though are larger radius.

As for bore cuts, I often start with the upper edge of the bar. I just exaggerate the angle initially to pretty much eliminate the chance of kickback. As I create a deep enough pocket I begin to straighten up the saw. Usually it's difficult access, another tree or limb or fence etc in that way. I have never had an issue though. As for doing it for every tree, mainly for heavy leaners or trunk bigger than the bar length.

[Tom]

Hey Aldo, wecome to the forum.

I usually start a bore cut on the bottom edge of the tip and roll the tip into cut such that I'm pushing straight in.  I can't think of anything that would cause chatter but a loose chain, or maybe a dull chain.  I do apply a positive pressure when bore cutting and it seems to go pretty smooth.

Most of my bore cutting is when bucking logs.  Logs laying on the ground that are supported on the ends, will pinch a bar.  I bore cut about a quarter of the way from the top and then cut to the ground.  The "tie" at the top holds the log together and allows the kerf to open rather than pinch.  I then come back and snip the "tie".  That's when the bar might get pinched a bit, but experience will show how thick the tie should be.  If thick enough, the top of the kerf will close and hold the rest of the kerf open, until you meet your original, bored, kerf.

[joe_indi]

Try replacing the rim sprocket, if the saw is running one.
If it has a spur sprocket, have grooves cut deeply into the spur?
If the grooves are deep, this could be the culprit.
A worn nose sprocket  might also be the cause.

Joe

[GASoline71]

S'cuse my being naive... but I really see no sense in bore cutting every tree when fallin'.  Especially trees that are only 10"...

I have been doing this many years... and have some big trees (30" plus over 150' tall) notched in my belt...

I am in no way an expert... but if you have to bore cut every single tree to keep from a "barberchair", then the fallin' technique you are usin' (non bore cuttin') needs to be addressed...  Whether it's just me... I don't know.  Because my intent is to not "call out" or make anybody here feel inferior... but 90% of the people I have come across that use a bore cut to fall every single tree... are making up for lack of proper technique in plain ol' tree fallin'.

That being said... it should be the other way around.  You should be fluent in good/proper fallin' techniques before usin' stuff like bore cuts, "dutchmen" cuts, Coos Bay cuts, and the like...

All in all... be careful... if you contuinue to use bore cuts for every tree... that's your business.  Just don't rely on it to save your butt as the "safe way".  Because it is not.



Gary

[Rocky_J]

Gary, take your common sense and get outta here!  8) :D

[Al_Smith]

I suppose it's just a different method of doing things . I might have bored half a dozen trees in my lifetime  and they were heavy leaners .

Oh you hear of some who expound on it but usually they are cutting for grade or figure.  Which means very little to 90 percent of us, if we get a little fiber pull on the end of a log ,we just cut it off any way . Much ado over 6 inchs of wood IMO .

[beenthere]

Depends on the tree.

Knowing the technique seems a big benefit, and knowing which trees need the possible extra control one might get from bore cutting, also seems smart (er) in the mix of things. 

I've started bucking a lot of logs for firewood with the method Tom mentioned. Saves sticking a wedge in the cut to keep from pinching the bar.

The speed that some people can cut is another factor. The young guys that move around fast, have plenty of time to steer the tree as it falls. The slower guys like me enjoy the extra time to set the wedges after the bore cut, and nip with a backcut to make it fall.

Almost like everyone can be right.  8)

[mrcaptainbob]

Between the felling notch and the bore cut, there can't be much left for a strap, considering the width of top-of-chain to bottom-of-chain.

[ErikC]

  I bore a heavy leaner once in a while, but seldom any other time. Bucking logs in the PNW is often done similar to what Tom mentioned, but I think it's a little better way. I start at the top, cut in a few inches, pull back most of the way and drop the bar a couple inches without removing it, bore in, cut out the bottom all the way, then the last piece from the bottom up. Never take the saw out of the log. The log doesn't pinch, and its as fast as it could be. I get a little chatter when boring in once in a while, but usually a little more pressure stops it.

[Maineloggerkid]

I bore-cut trees that need a wedge. It allows me to set the wedge without worry of the tree setting back. If I know its gonna go where I want it, or i can swing it where I want it, I don't bore-cut it. I do find the technique in-valuable though.

I was taught to bore cut with either side of my bar. In some cases I actually prefer boring with the top of my bar. More risky, but it seems to have its place.