Whats the best shed?

[bandmiller2]

True North,probibly the easiest way is don't board all the way up to the peak leave a gap of say 12" [six per side] then wrap corrigated roofing over the peak leaving a gap.Depending where you exhaust pipe discharges you can put an ellbow and extension and blow it out the high side of a shed roof also as long as the building is open. Frank C.

[moonhill]

Air craft hanger doors is what I put on each end of my 30' wide building, 16' high.  In the summer I leave them open.  In the winter I open the one not facing the wind usually one is open when I am sawing.  The logs are rolled in on the side of the building via a 26' opening.  Plenty of air movement.  Long logs, anything over 30' is dragged or pushed in via the hanger door ends.     

http://www.hi-fold.com/  These are the same as I installed, cost $2500 each.  They are skinned with clear corrugated lexan, Suntuff, allowing lots of light and heat in the winter. 

Tim

[True North]

What size spruce beams would be needed to span the 20' openings on the load bearing sides?

[ARKANSAWYER]

 



  This is the saw building the LT70E is in.  The mill is on the other side.  It has a moniter roof like a sugar shack.  It is 24 ft wide and 72 ft long.

[ljmathias]

Seems to be two schools of thought: one shed/barn to do everything in versus a shed just for the saw plus other buildings for storing and working with the wood you saw.  I favor the second approach- my sawmill shed is just the right size for just the saw and sawdust pile till I scoop it up when it's a couple of bucket fulls for my FEL.  This helps me keep everything as tidy as I can- problem is, I've now got a couple dozen cedar and cherry boards standing upright around the mill cause I don't have a drying stack for them- guess I'll work on that next although I have too many stacks of lumber drying now and can't remember what's in them or what I wanted them for- guess I'll tear some down and make something.  Course that will end up inside the barn stacked up and in the way so I can't work in there.  Seems like no matter what I do, wood gets in the way!  :D :D

BTW, one thing I've found you might consider: I built my shed with full length access on both sides- long and narrow but able to put logs on and take boards off from either side.  Been working on my son's house, cutting 4-4 boards for siding when I ran out.  Problem was, had a small whack of poplar and oak logs waiting to be cut on the loading side of the mill.  Solution: haul SYP to off-bear side and load from there (very, very carefully- don't want to mess up arms and beds with a FEL).  Worked great for an occassional problem.

Most of all, build carefully so you can work safe.

Lj

[bandmiller2]

Alot to be said for multiple buildings,your not so apt to be tripping over stuff and it reduces the fire damage exposure.Frank C.

[old joe]

The best shed is the one you have.  An even better shed is the one you want.   :D :D

[Banjo picker]

I got to agree with joe here....I orig. built my shed to store round bales of hay....so it is 17 ft. to the eaves...... >:( a tad hard to get a roof on.....but I already had it....30 ft wide and 105 ft long....with 5 bays) .....I concreted 3 of the middle bays before the mill got there...I am glad I did ...( I know a lot of you don't like con...but I do)   The only thing I don't like is the sun coming in from the east on that high eave in the summer...hot as Hades or Sheol if you are Greek. :D :D :D    ;)  .  I plan on putting a barrier there to stop the sun in the fut....although if I were sawing now it might be a blessing....(its 25 deg. right now)  same problem on west side in the afternoon....On the plus side , the tall roof does not trap any fumes from the Perkins...If I were building a shed just for the mill....A sugar shak.... ;) Tim

[jwoods]

Below are a couple of shots of my mill shed.  The mill and lumber sit under the lean-to.  The divider wall isn't done yet, but should be in a couple of months.

The dimensions are 28 by 70, might like a little more, but I bet nobody else on here has built a barn big enough either.

The openings between telephone poles are 21 feet on center, I laminated 3 2by12's with glue and lags for the beam.  Seems strong enough so far.   








Joe.

[True North]

Wow, there are so many great examples out there, I am not sure which way to go.  Thanks for all of the advice.  I guess I need to either go big, or just build something big enough to cover the saw.....???? To be continued....

[ARKANSAWYER]

  You may  just build enough to cover the saw for now but when you build just think about how you might expand.  What might start out as a shed roof today maybe a gable roof by end of summer.  Also you may build the "middle" of the building and add wings later off the side for lumber storage.  Thinking ahead in the planing stage my lead you into a good plan for your operation.
  Wind direction and where the sun shines are key factors in lay out.  Do not forget about drainage and which way the roof slopes.  These will make working at the mill all the better in the long run.  Also leave lots of room around  everything so you can move equipment that you may not have now but one day will.   Dream big and plan large then build the middle of the building to cover the mill.
  We like photos.

This is a floor plan for what my mill shed will look like when done.  Right now I just have the middle of it.  I need the two side wings and walls finished with a hard floor.