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First project using my sycamore

Started by PC-Urban-Sawyer, April 27, 2010, 09:34:43 PM

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WDH

I have read that you can use super glue on the more punky areas by spreading it over the area.  Then sand after it dries.  This helps to slow absorption of the finish in the more punky areas.  There was a piece on this method in Fine Woodworking in the last issue.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

PC-Urban-Sawyer

I decided I wanted to try using "real" shellac to finish the frame. I ordered some shellac "flakes" from an online store.



Shellac flakes. You make up what you need by measuring and mixing the ingredients. The flakes are weighed to determine how much to put in the mix.



Crushing shellac flake with roller.  The smaller the particles, the easier it will be to get all the flakes dissolved.



2 ounces (weight) of shellac flakes in jar, waiting on remaining ingredient.



Use 190 proof denatured alchol to mix with the shellac flakes. Measure in liquid ounces. Mix 8 ounces with 2 ounces of flakes to produce a 2 lb "cut".





Shellac flakes and alcohol in jar. Mix by stirring or shaking frequently. Allow mixture to take 24 hours to fully dissolve the flakes, then strain into a clean jar.




This jar had shellac "cut" that had been diluted to a 1 lb cut for use as the initial sealer coat(s).

One nice thing about shellac is it dries quickly and you can recoat quickly. I put on a total of four coats tonight, two "wash" coats of 1 lb cut to seal the wood and then two coats of 2 lb cut to begin "building" the finish. Here's a series of photos showing the effect of each coat.





Frame after one coat of 1 lb cut.





Frame after two coats of 1 lb cut.





Third coat is first coat of two lb cut to begin to build the finish.





Fourth coat.

I'll let it dry good overnight and sand with 400 grit in the morning before adding more coats to build up to the final finish.

Herb


WDH

Looking good!

Getting a good finish is about the most challenging aspect of making furniture and other wood projects. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

SwampDonkey

Sure looks similar to the spalt in hard maple and yellow birch. ;D That picture frame will surely provide a nice place to hang that picture of the family. You are doing a fine job. I never could use one of them hand electric planes, I just ruined the work piece. Had one I returned promptly. But, you've mastered the art of hand electric planes.  ;D ;) I've never seen the process of mixing up shellac for a finish before, just thought ya bought it my the can. ;D That alcohol would be pricey here, if you could even buy it. I remember trying to get some alcohol to preserve insects in and was told that it was highly guarded and only universities and such could obtain it. I know you can't drink the denatured stuff, but I know of a clan that would drink "rubby", so........:D All you could get was isopropol around here when I looked for insect preservative.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

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2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

PC-Urban-Sawyer

SD,

There are several reasons to use the flakes instead of buying premix. First of all, flakes can be stored indefinately until mixed. Mixed shellac has a realively short shelf life and when it goes bad will not harden on the project's surface. Flakes are available in a wide variety of types and colors. The two basic types are waxed and dewaxed. Then there's color. Natural shellac has a color that it imparts to the finish without obscuring the grain of the wood. Processors use a bleaching technique to reduce the amount of pigment in the flakes. Here's three different color flakes I bought:



Shellac flakes come in different colors. Each of these bags was 8 ounces of flakes, I've mixed up 4 ounces of the lightest colored one so far.

The alcohol cost about $7 for a quart or $16 for a gallon from the local box stores. The same stores stock premix blonde dewaxed shellac for $11 per quart. by the time you calculate it out, the cost is roughly the same. If you couldn't get denatured alcohol at paint/finish supply store you could alway use 190 proof everclear from the Crown package store, that way you take a nip or two while mixing up the next batch. Of course that also explains why people used to use the term "getting shellaced" to mean getting drunk  :D

Herb


PC-Urban-Sawyer

Yesterday I sanded the finish down with 400 grit paper (used it dry, didn't have any mineral oil and shellac doesn't like water...) and then applied three more coats of the two lb cut shellac. I let it harden up overnight and then rubbed it out a bit with some automotive finish rubbing compound to smooth it out and knock the gloss down a little bit.

I decided that the finish was "finished" well enough for this project and so I mounted the photo and hung it on the wall in our family room...



I pleased with the results. The shellac brought out the coloration and spalting patterns and gives the almost "aged" look that I wanted to compliment the black and white photo.

Herb


D Hagens


Looks great Herb :) I like the splines, cool way of doing it. :)

DanG

That's fanDanGtastic, Herb!  Not only is the frame beautiful, but the step-by-step tutorial through the whole process is just something special.  I love the way you documented the decisions you had to make as you felt your way through the project.  In my book, there is no better way to learn than to watch someone else learn. :) :) :)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: DanG on May 18, 2010, 01:18:38 AM
That's fanDanGtastic, Herb!  Not only is the frame beautiful, but the step-by-step tutorial through the whole process is just something special.  I love the way you documented the decisions you had to make as you felt your way through the project.  In my book, there is no better way to learn than to watch someone else learn. :) :) :)

DanG,

Yeah, the only thing better than learning from your mistakes is learning from thr mistakes of others. ;D

Herb

WDH

OK, so what is the next project?  A coffee table would be nice  :).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: WDH on May 18, 2010, 10:26:38 AM
OK, so what is the next project?  A coffee table would be nice  :).

Danny,

Sure would, wouldn't it...

But with my facilities and getting the wood properly dry, it will be a while before I tackle something significantly bigger.

I am working on something but because it's supposed to be a surpise for someone who might stumble across this forum I'm holding off on posting about it until I'm done...

In the meantime I'm playing around with making a couple of letter openers using a scrap of the pecan for the blade and spalted sycamore for the handle... More on that in a day or so...

Herb

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