metal detector? Which one to get.

[LPitt]

I'm sure this has been talked about before, but I need one for my mill and know nothing about them. Any advice from people with them will be welcomed. Thanks

[bandmiller2]

Pitts,I've got three detectors two fancy expensive ones and a small simple cheap one quess what I use most.If you get a small cheap simple one you will tend to leave it around the mill and use it,the expensive one will be safe back home.I really only use a metal detector on suspect logs or questionable sections.Frank C.

[pineywoods]

I use a cheap (about $30)harbor freight wand type. Results are mixed. It usually will find a nail if it's not more than a couple of inches deep, depends to some extent on the log. If I suspect metal, I scan the log before every cut.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

will a stud finder work?

[GAmillworker]

New to the forum.  these guys on here are a wealth of info.  have spent the last two weeks in the evening until early in the morning reading, reading, learning, learning, & learning some more.

Anyway I saw a lot of reclaimed beams heartpine oak hickory ash etc.  Me and the guys are really rough on medal detectors so I'm still looking for somthing more industrial.  The Lumber wizard III (http://www.amazon.com/Wizard-Detectors-25506-Lumber-Detector/dp/B00005NMUN) is what we use.  They cost $99.

[pineywoods]

will a stud finder work?

Nope, totally different principle of operation.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Lumber wizard III is a no-brainer, hand it to the customer to scan top surface before the cut, to check suspect areas right under the bark,  or to check whether metal is completely removed.  It sees up to about  3" nails 1-2" deep and can be used on the mill about 6" or more above the rails.  My expensive one is a Rens 4000 which needs to be handled with care and is valuable for rejecting low value logs, identifying ends of logs to cut off, and elsehwere, where to expect to hit metal.  Certainly something you'd want if you're accepting donated or buying logs but  introduces confusion into what to do if there is metal in high value logs you're sawing for a customer.  It doesn't pay to dig for metal as that costs time and spoils wood, and if you find it, it is a toss-up whether it can be avoided or not.  It can cost  part of your job if the customer decides not to saw the log.  You can't use the more sensitive detector on the mill after you hit metal, you have to dump the wood back off onto the ground and roll it away from the mill, and this only works if there's no metal in the ground.  Overall I am glad to have the Rens and just have to get wise about how best to use it.

[Magicman]

Yes, this has been discussed, and I will stick to my pet answer.  I use a Wizard on my logs.  If I am sawing a customer's logs, I will let the customer do the scanning.

The reason is that if I scan his log, then I have shifted the responsibility of finding the metal from the customer to me.  It's his log and his nails.  If I hit one, the charge is $25 no matter if it can be resharpened or not.  I have down time as well as blade sharpening cost.

This makes the customer very aware and very interested in finding metal and/or discarding logs that may possible have metal.

Note:  I have never had a complaint from a customer regarding metal, blades, or cost.  This is covered in the saw contract before milling begins.

[woodmills1]

rens  or renns   don't knot the spelling


designed for logs

serious

[red oaks lumber]

my planer hasn't missed  hardware yet, if its' there i find it.
log wizard is a good choice

[redbeard]

Along with the Wizard i also use the cheapo stud finder that is the magnet on the end of a needle fits in your pocket and easy to see if the stained smudge has metal in it on the cut you just made.

[Magicman]

If the log is horizontal, you can also use a compass and see if the needle deflects when you pass over a suspected area.  That jeweled needle is very sensitive and will respond to fairly deep iron.

[trapper]

I used a compass to find a survey stake just under the surface in my yard.

[Tom]

All of those inexpensive ways will work, some of the tools will work, but it's nothing like having a decent metal detector available.  The major manufactures all have one that will work. They fall in the $200-$600 range.  Garret's is the Ace series. White's is a Coinmaster.
Price is usually commensurate with the amount of discrimination features on a detector.  Those are the do-dads that allow you to eliminate some materials from the search.  When looking for nails, you don't need them, so why spend the extra money?

From experience, I'll tell you that the finding of nails and other metal in logs is just one of the things your metal detector will do.  Having a detector is having another hobby.  You can look for lost things on your own property, spending time with the wife or kids.  Your sawing business will place you in historic spots of old homes and factories.  It's fun to have a detector to look for old tools and scrap during lunch.  So consider that when shopping fro a detector.

[isawlogs]

I use one from radioshack I think I paid somewheres around 120$ for it. You really need to scan the logs before they get on the mill, other why's the detector will be "finding " the mill  :   :D