Tagging a log cabin

[Hale87]

Purchased a 12 X 16 log cabin so I'm looking for a way to tag the logs before we take it apart? Any other info would be greatly appreciated as well.  Don't have a clue what I'm about to get into!

Thanks.........

[Dave Shepard]

We buy aluminum tags with the numbers stamped in them from Ben Meadows. We get the blue ones so you can see them quickly, they have a hole in them for a screw, and the stamped numbers won't fade. Important rule for tagging a building, only ONE!! tag per piece. Never, ever put more than one tag on a part of a building. Do a sketch of the building and put the numbers on the sketch. I work on timber framed buildings, so there is a little difference in approach, but try to number in a deliberate way. Such as number all the rafters first, then moving on to principle parts of the frame. In a cabin, you may want to number all the logs in one course, then move up. That way a lower number will indicate a log lower in the building. Your sketch doesn't have to be architect quality, but you do have to make it clear enough to figure out the relationship of one part to the rest of the frame. We have had trouble with poorly documented buildings in the past. Parts with no number, parts with a number, but it isn't on the sketch, or parts with up to four numbers. ???  

[fred in montana]

Got any photos of it? I would be interested in seeing them. If you don't mind me asking, what does a 12x16 go for in your area?

[bama20a]

I seen some fellows moving one .They used the tags like you put in cattles ears,Cheap & you can get them at most feed stores.

[jander3]

Here are a couple of links that show how I marked the log cabin walls before I moved the log walls north. For marking, I used waterproof canvas, permanent markers, and stapled the labels on the log ends.   The logs spent the winter under the snow before I could get them installed. 

OFFSITE PHOTOS

[sbishop]

A quick and dirty way i used was a lumber crayon. When building my cabin i mark each logs where i had install a piece of reebar. Marks stayed well even being out in the elements for a year!

Jander3 idea is probrably better, Dave's is probrably best!

Sbishop

[Hale87]

Don't have very many photos yet. Wasn't really in the market for a cabin but purchased it when I found out the price was only 400. We already have a cabin that sits on 60 acres, so we plan on putting it somewhere close by the other one.









Here's the one we already have, so I'm thinking we'll produce some kind of walk way to this small log cabin. This one here is sort of a lazy man's post and beam.

[sawdust]

We use 3" squares of antifreeze bottle nailed on one end of the log. opposing corners of the building get the tags. Starting at the bottom they would read 1NW this translates first round north corner west wall. The log lying across it would read 1NN, first round north corner north wall. Opposite corner of the house has the tags 1SE and 1SS. Small logs that fit between doors and windows have the round number and what opening they belong to.
Harder to describe that to actually do.

[Hale87]

Considering this cabin has a rather large hole in the one end, I want to turn it into a single story. My thoughts are to pull the first few courses out and drop the top half down. That way, I'd only have to replace maybe 2 or 3 logs.  Also thought about adding a room on to the side but not real crazy about it not looking as close to as original as possible.

Would you agree with that??

[Jim_Rogers]

One of the systems I've seen is to start in one corner of the building and work your way around, and/or through the building labeling each piece.

I'm not sure if I have a written description of how to do this or not.
When we took down a barn (with the guild) the instructors had already prepared an set of drawings of the structure.
And while we were tagging the barn, the tag labels were written onto the drawing in the same location on the page of where the tag was on the piece.
All braces were tagged on the bottom end. Such as the end where the brace enters the post. This helps to identify which end is up and which end is down:



Tag on a brace:



Labeling tags:



Note the plan set on the bench next to the labeling station.

Hope that helps.

Jim Rogers

[fred in montana]

That looks dangerous! Might want to get some cross bracing on there before you start dismantling it.

[Hale87]

That looks dangerous! Might want to get some cross bracing on there before you start dismantling it.

Yes, I've thought of a lot of things and cross bracing was the first!
For about 450 I can rent a 60 boom lift. It's not designed to lift anything, but at that size I think it will more than handle those logs at 13 or 14' in the air. Considering it can extend 50' straight out and hold 1000 in the basket, it will be more than enough at a much shorter distance, and a much more stepper slope.

Any idea what a 16' log would weigh??

[fred in montana]

Look into hiring a boom truck with operator. I hired one to set trusses and think it was less than $500 for several hours. If you had someone on the cabin hooking him up and someone on the ground to unhook, it should go really fast. Could stack them right on a trailer.

[Jim_Rogers]

Any idea what a 16' log would weigh??

That would depend on the type of wood. I don't remember if you listed it above in this thread.

I would consider that these logs are dry, or use dry weight. There is a log weight calculator here on the forum at: https://forestryforum.com/calcs/log_weight.htm

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers

[buzzegray]

Use nursery tags:  the ones you write on aluminum and it makes an impression into the aluminum.

[logmason]

I always used a little square of aluminum coil stock, scribed with N for North etc and Roman numerals, tacked on with a roofing nail. Keep all you jambs and other parts too. Even if you do not use them they are handy for reference. Numbering the flooring was always the hardest, crayon or pencil marks disappear. Cut or lose one piece and you do not have enough.
I have a couple extra logs here, and T&G flooring.

That large opening does not seem right, I'd consider losing that.
Being so low to ground it's about a givin the bottom sills are junk, top sills are next to inspect. Replace with oak squared from saw mill.

Strip building of chinking and roof, brace logs then remove jambs. If you have new foundation or piers, and replacement sills/logs ready, a log truck and experienced operator to pick em, haul em, and reinstall em is most efficient way I have done it. No man in the hazard zone while taking down.. They are stacked on truck in proper order to restack at new site.

I think I've seen pics of your existing cabin before.

If you have questions I can try and help. I have done "a couple"

WB

[logmason]

After looking at your profile I know I've seen your cabin pics before. If by chance you are going to that D3 banquet tonight, I'll be there, look me up we'll chew some fat, er logs. Wright.

[Hale87]

Logmason,
Haven't been on for a few days I missed your post.
I'm guessing you're Wright, as in Wright Brothers?

[logmason]

Small world aye.
That banqhet was great.