how to sharpen circular blade

[bandmiller2]

I believe belsaw just used the scale board.My first circular mill I made the setworks from the ratchet used on an old manure spreader and just used a yardstick and pointer,worked fine.I made up a card with dimensions plus kerf.My mill now has a regular setworks, like Ron described, and its a major improvement.Its still tough to make your last slab cut on a cant and have it work out just right for the last board. Frank C.

[ALWOL]

   Whether setting by the board scale, the limiting setworks, or a "cheat wheel" it seems like I also have the same problem as Frank. It is next to impossible to make a can't the proper size to make a perfect number of boards. I usually end up leaving all of the dog boards extra thick anyway, and send them through the planer.
   As for sharpening the blade, I use an air powered die grinder fitted with an emery wheel. It takes only a few minutes to set-up and sharpen a saw. I run my saws a little faster than anyone that I know of, and the faster they run, the more attention it takes to make it saw right.

      Alan

[bandmiller2]

Alan,that last board thing can be helped by making up a chart including the number of boards plus kerf and adjusting it by trial and error.I screwed one of those aluminum yard sticks on my scale board and I can get close but never just right. Frank C.

[dail_h]

On my belsaw,each click of the ratchet wheel advances the knees 1/16th of an inch. as set now, one full pull of the handle gives a 1 in board. i just use scale board to get to my size. i'm usualy cutting 6x6 mine blocks,, so i just figure out from 6 in

[ALWOL]

   Yeah, that's my problem, close but never just perfect. The yardstick idea sounds like a good one. On both of my mills the board gauge is on the headblocks, but the graduations are in 1/4 of an inch. A yardstick with 1/16 inch marks would help a lot.

          Alan

[postville]

One thing on sharpening not mentioned is swaging. There is a tool that will bring the corners of the tooth back out to the original width. The top of the tooth is tapered and as you sharpen it gets narrower. The swage tool is placed on the tooth and hit with a hammer. One side makes a cup shape,low in the center, the other side brings the edge back flat.
Like all saws, correct set keeps the blade cool. Bob