Used Saw Guide

[logbutcher]

Looking at a used MS260 4 years old.. Seller says it was "...used rarely by a little old man and lost in his divorce..." Asking $250. (No divorce jokes or stories here please,  
What should I be checking out ?
Compression.
Oiling.
Sprocket.
Chain/bar condition.
Tach @ WOT and idle.
Appearance mean anything?
What specifically should I test and check ? The tool will be used for 1-2 day /week woodlot management. T.S.I.(Timber Stand Improvement), blow down cut up, chipping, 6-8 cords firewood, trail work, white cedar ATV logging. It will join an 028 and 136 .

[oldsaw-addict]

Well check everything engine related. make sure the chain is good and sharp, the bar rails nice and squared, Unless you want to make U turns with your saw.

[logbutcher]

Oldsaw
Sharp and raked w bar filed also is right. Great 'new' tool is the Pferd rig (Chainsharp) that does the tooth and depth gauge same time. Big difference. Husq uses this under another name. Most pros using this now. Try it.
May get the Walker muffer later. Sounds like something even a hacker can do.
Thx.

[Kevin]

You might want to remove the muffler and check the piston for scoring through the exhaust port.

[jokers]

Looking at a used MS260 4 years old.. Seller says it was "...used rarely by a little old man and lost in his divorce..."

Ya gotta ask yourself, how plausable is that? What "little old man" lays down about $400 for a saw then loses it in a divorce? Did he have to sell it to make child support?

Appearance does matter because if it looks like it was dragged behind a truck, it`s probably beat. If it looks new, you have to ask yourself why, were there problems with the saw? Some visible wear is to be expected.

If the saw looks pretty good you don`t need to waste any time on a compression check, just pull it over and see how easily it starts. Low compression will make it tough to start. If it starts good, check how the saw idles in all positions. Leaky crank seals often manifest themselves when a running saw is pointed downward or tipped on it`s side. Then check acceleration. There shouldn`t be any hesitation and it should rev quickly, minor carb tweaks can be done to rule out misadjustment if it doesn`t rev quickly. Also check the spark screen if it doesn`t want to rev, start easily, or have good power.

Next, put the saw in some wood if possible. It should be able to hold rpm with moderate pressure applied.

If everything checks so far, start looking over the chain brake, recoil, air filter, antivibe mounts, cracks in the plastic, especially the fuel take. Check operation of the Master Control Lever, this is a common item to break if not operated properly. pull the air filter and look for sawdust in the throat of the carb. Sawdust in the carb means that it`s also in the crank bearings to some degree.

Look the saw over for general cleanliness. Packed up sawdust on the engine housing or in the fins is a killer because it causes the saw to run too hot, and it also gives you some idea of whether the saw was likely to have had regular maintenance.

Check the bar oiler, but don`t worry too much if the sprocket or bar are worn. These items are consumables and often wear too quickly because so many people run dull chain.

Now take a Torx T-27 bit and remove the muffler front cover. Look at the exhaust side of the piston for lean sieze scoring. Also check the piston crown for carbon buildup. You don`t want any but a little is ok. Look through the exhaust port with the piston down to view the intake side of the cylinder. You should not see any evidence of the gaulling normally caused by water score or overheating. You should also clearly see machine marks in the piston skirt unless it`s a real high hour saw.

I think I`ve pretty much covered the high points but may have missed something because I`m tired. All in all the 026/260 is a very tough little saw. I think that $250 is a little stiff though unless you can prove that it`s nearly new.

Good luck,

Russ

[Rocky_J]

About 4-5 years ago is when Stihl tried selling 026's with fixed jet carbs- no high end adjustments. I ended up with one of those and it was a nightmare. Mine ran lean and I could do very little about it.  By the time I got smart and bought a new (fully adjustable) carb to replace the fixed jet carb, the damage had already been done.

Anyway, make sure the saw has both high and low adjustment screws on the carb. If not, I recommend walking away. I'm leaving out several paragraphs of details from my experiences with fixed jet carbs, but you do not want one. Trust me.

[logbutcher]

"All in all the 026/260 is a very tough little saw. I think that $250 is a little stiff though unless you can prove that it`s nearly new."

Good advice from the Russ and Brian team. Will do the checks you recommend that have not already been done. .
It's a 026Pro, clean, no visible scoring inside, little wear marks on the chain catch and base of the saw, starter insides also clean. Good 16" Stihl bar w new RS chain. Serial number shows a mfr date of 1998. Saw starts easily, idles smoothly in all positions, accelerates nicely . $250 seems fair since it is from a solid dealer with an unconditional backup for 90 days. He threw in a new non-fleece filter I wanted.  I try to do win-win in these things. This is the Stihl tech that most of the local loggers and arborists use.  And, since I know what I don't know and know my limits, I'm comfortable.
Only downside: it is a fixed hi jet. We'll see. He says that he's had no, none,zero, problems with the intellicarb IF the user uses 89+ octane fresh gas with the correct mix and 'approved' oil like Stihl or Husq.In this part of the world extreme temp variations are the norm. I've always used the cheapest unleaded gas --87 octane--in my 2 cycles
Besides, until Mike fixed the air leak on the 028, a new MS260 was in the cards for $430+. So now I may  ;D  even get like the big boys with a stable of saws.  8)
Good advice....appreciate it.

[jokers]

Hi Logbutcher,

Given your further description and source for the saw, $250 seems fair. You make it sound as if it has hardly been used in which case someone else had the pleasure of absorbing the depreciation and you got the prize. I think that you will have many good years of service and pleasurable use from that saw, it`s one of my favorites for it`s intended range.

The fixed jet Intellicarb has a history of being problematic, but then a few reputable people also report no issues with them. If you live in an area that doesn`t get too cold(northern Maine, I doubt it) and you aren`t forced to use oxygenated gas at any time of the year, you might be all right. The most common problem that I have seen with the fixed jets is that they normally run lean which also diminishes peak power. You can buy the different size jets if need be and ensuring that the metering lever is at the right height is beneficial and crucial. If you do encounter problems, a more economical and better fix is to just swap carbs with and adjustable hi speed. It`s very easily done, email me if you want step by step instructions. The wt-426 is the most popular carb for this application and if you are patient, you can probably find a deal on one on eBay. Since this particular Walbro model is a Stihl only carb, it will cost you about $70 retail vs $35 for most other chainsaw size Walbros. There are plenty of used, servicable carbs around and you might be lucky enough to score one for $10 - $15.

Premium gas is always good advice in my opinion, it meets the OEM spec for octane but also seems to last better in the can. Use of a good synthetic oil like Mobil MX2T is also a good idea, and some of the beauty of MX2T is that it costs no more than OEM mix oil while providing a superior, clean, lube.

Oh yeah, and don`t forget to check the impulse line for collapse and cracks every so often.

Russ