8/4 Walnut

[Okrafarmer]

Looking good, Learner! I hope to be going through some of those steps soon. 

[mikeb1079]

Walnut that I've used from commercial sources have a uniform color - dark brown.  Walnut that I have had sawn and dried in my solar kiln has lots of color variation - several browns, red and some purple.  The figure in the wood is also clearer and more sharp than the commercial stuff.

this has been my experience also.  i've found air dryed walnut to have some really beautiful color variations from almost white to olive, purple, reds, and brown.  as others have said i would at least air dry for a bit then kiln if your in a hurry.   i'll also second the posts about the generous nature of walnut when drying.  in my limited experience it's one of the easiest woods to dry.  sometimes i think that it's not just the beauty of a wood that has led to its regard, it was that the old timers had to dry it and work with it.  the fact that walnut combines beauty with ease of drying and working (ie hand tools) is most likely what led to it's popularity and price.   

[Okrafarmer]

All those things are true, but let's not forget another quality it has-- its shock-absorbing quality. Makes it highly useful for gun stocks and other shock-load applications.

[WDH]

Truly wonderful wood.  Walnut is the King.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

Proper steaming will not wash out the heartwood color.  It will darken it, get rid of the greenish hue, and make it overall more uniform.  The sapwood will also darken, but this darkening is not caused by chemicals moving from the heartwood into the sapwood, but by oxidation.  Note that steaming is done only on freshly cut, never dried lumber and requires 200 F or hotter at 100% RH.

A NYLE kiln or any kiln will not damage 10/4 if the kiln is run properly.  However, if the humidity is too low or if end coating is not applied properly, then honeycomb is likely.

[learner]

I am trully Honored to have found the Forestry Forum and met such Great minds as those here. All I've ever done is saw lumber for building homes and cabinets.
But everyday here teaches me more about the true value and uniqeuness of wood. It's also taught me patience because each type of wood requires it's own special attention and drying times to bring out it's best qualities.
I never gave much thought to what went into the wood I got at the job sites. But now I have a new perspective and respect for those that first looked at the log and decided how best to turn it into something that would not only benefit everyone, but keep it living on in our lives.
We lost quite a few trees during the drought last year. It feels Really Great to know that everyday I can walk out my backdoor and see those trees living on in the buildings we used them to construct.
I'm wondering now so back to the point. I think it best to let this walnut dry awhile before sticking it in a kiln. Like a fine wine or whiskey, it just gets better with age.
Thank you ALL for your patience as I learn.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

If you air dry white oak for two years without a roof, it will emit a vanilla aroma.  Such oak is desired by wine barrel makers.  But, I do not think it will work with walnut, so move it into the kiln at 30% MC to prevent an increase in defects like honeycomb.

[WDH]

I love the smell of drying white oak!