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old logs

Started by Steve_M, March 22, 2004, 11:08:40 AM

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Steve_M

I have access to a couple hundred logs that have been on the ground between one and two years.  About half cherry and half red oak in number.  I plan to go get these, but I wonder about sealing the ends or is it too late to do much good.  I know it would be best to saw them all tomorrow but that just aint going to happen.

Steve
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

Norm

Just freshen up the cut ends and seal em. I've been surprised by how good some logs are that have sat for awhile.

Steve_M

Norm,

I don't doubt that these logs are still good.  Do you think trimming then sealing will stop further checking or would you do this more for appearance and maybe to increase blade life by removing dry and dirty material?  How much would yo trim on each end ( 2")??

Thanks

Steve
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

ronwood

Steve_M,

I would cut the end off at least on the side where the blade enters the log. Also I would wait till you cut them before doing that unless you want to seal them.

Ron

Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

Tom

I've been told by folks older than me that once end checks develop, they can't be stopped.  To seal an end and have it do any good requires that no end splits be there.   That would mean to me that you would have to cut back the end until there were no end splits and then seal it.

This is probably a generalization, as most old folks instructions seem to be, but it probably accounts for the directions on most sealing compounds to apply as soon as the log is cut.

Cutting the end of blade entry is a good idea because it gets rid of that inch or so of hardened wood and the dirt that has accumulated in the end splits.  That has to be a blade saver. :)

AtLast

6 of 1 half dozen  a tuther.  ;D

HORSELOGGER

Steve, cant help wondering why there is a pile of logs that size layin around for so long???
Heritage Horselogging & Lumber Co.
"Surgical removal of standing timber, Leaving a Heritage of timber for tommorow. "

steveo_1

Steve, thats what we do just cut off the end bout 4 to 6" then saw.It may help to seal em but we figure its too late so dont bother with it.Did you figure out why your blades were breaking?I didnt see any response to your problem a few weeks ago.
got wood?

Frickman

Steve,
A few years ago we found a few cherry logs that were blowdowns on a timber harvest we had. The bark was off of them and much of the sapwood was rotten. The property owner said they had been down at least ten years, and they looked it. Well let me tell you, that was some of the prettiest cherry I ever sawed. It had a real dark, rich color, just like cherry gets as it develops a patina when used in furniture. We run a circle mill so we had no problem sawing it out. It was in tree length so we didn't have to do any extra trimming. A furniture maker bought the whole lot. He end coats all his lumber before air-drying and then kiln-dying, including this cherry. He's just started to use it, and it makes beautiful furniture.

Anchorseal says you should endcoat within a day or so of trimming a log or board, so I don't think that endcoating now would help alot. It can't hurt and is cheap to do so go for it. I would definitely make sure the lumber is endcoated before drying to prevent new splits from forming. If you have to trim the logs to saw them with a band mill then that would be a good time to endcoat.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

Steve_M

HORSELOGGER

 I don't know all the details but I think it was a cut and run type of logger or buyer from out of the area that bought the timber for little of nothing then took the cream of the top and  moved on and eventually had financial problems and went belly up.  The land owner farmed around these for one year but was not going to do it again.

Steve
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

Steve_M

steveo_1

I will bring that thread on blade breakage back up soon and let you know what I found.
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

ARKANSAWYER

Steve,
  Trim just about an inch off each end and save the endsealer.  Once a log starts to check I have found that triming them off to where the checks end does not stop the check.  They often crack worst for the trimming.  I just trim off an inch before sawing and let the boards air dry before they hit a kiln.   They should still all be good even the red oak though the sapwood will not be of much account.  I sawed a walnut today  that was felled in 1978 and has been in a barn since then.  Several people have passed on milling it over the years to include one circle mill.  It made 20 of the nicest 1x12 walnut boards you have everseen and they were dry to the core.  Sawed easy enough.  I have sawn red oak over 3 years down and the sapwood was mush but the heart was fine.
ARKANSAWYER
ARKANSAWYER

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