Building a bandsaw mill

[steamsawyer]

A rookie weldor will learn real quick, never pick up your hood and put it on without looking for never seeze in the head band. :D

[Ljohnsaw]

OK, I got reprimanded once, ;) so I'll NOT start another thread.  I'll just continue here...

I'm going to take the collective wisdom from the group and hopefully make a nice hobby mill.

I am going to copy thecfarm's mill design with the 2x4 tube steel with 3x3 angle (might down-size to 2x2) on top and 2x3 C channel cross members and adjustable log supports.  I'll probably through in a couple of 2x4 cross members to match the main side rails for more rigidity.  I will add multiple hooking points for the log ramps to adjust to the size of the logs loaded.

I will also borrow grweldon's idea and put a toe board at each end for leveling the logs.

I've collected several doughnut spare tires and a pair of stub axles from the junk yard to use as the band wheels ($100 invested).  I just received today a box with 10 three inch cast iron pulleys (3/8" cap) that I will use for the head rollers and lift system ($45 invested). I'm almost ready to go buy some steel for the head works.  I know what I'm going to use for the bed, pretty straight forward.  However, I'm going to make the head works first and then make the bed to fit that.  Its looking like I should use some inch and a half square tube for a stout frame of either 3/16 or 1/4".  Sound about right?  I have a bunch of 14 gauge (heavy stuff) sheet metal to use for the blade shroud.

I'm going to buy a blade or two to have while I build so I get all the dimensions right and to test it.  I will eventually be sawing lodgepole pine, incense cedar and quaking aspen.  It will be cut into 8x8, 8x10, 10x12 etc posts/beams, 5x purlins etc - whatever the calcs work out - and lots of flooring/roofing and wall planks.  Most of my trees are 18" - 24" DBH.  Can you all recommend the proper blade(s) to use for this application?  I do have some limited small oak and may cut for curved braces.  I will be using a 185" blade to give me just over a 36" cut width. This will also give me about a 30" wide by 20" high max beam size (which I don't think I will ever do) but will come in handy when I make some wide slabs for counter tops.

Oh, and just so you know I will be safe - I just ordered a hardhat with screen visor and ear muffs, 11 layer Kevlar wrap-around chaps and some gel gloves with Kevlar backs.

Oh yeah, I bought a new (2012) Grizzly 550 8) Got it "out the door" for about $1,200 less than the sticker price so I figure I saved close to $2k.  Pick it up on Saturday - but it will be raining/snowing on my property all weekend  :(

Thanks! - love this place

[Art_H]

RE; Angled cutting, is a new thing that may become popular.  The theory is to not 'shock' the band if it enters the full width all at once.  By angling 10 degrees ish, the band progressively enters the log and will tend to maintain rpm and more likely to cut straight and where you want it to rather than rising up etc.

If I was building a band mill, it's what I would do.  Chain mill would be less of an issue with the bar strength etc.

Have a look around some of the newer band mills, it's a new thing, and the logic supports an angled band saw.  The angled cutters worked during the French Revolution...

Art

[beenthere]

Art_H
Welcome to the Forestry Forum

Where does your info come from, about 'angled' cutting?

Theory, or design experience?  or other?

Interesting thought. And it has been discussed here over the years.

[roghair]

I'm new to the forum and also in the process of building a hobby sawmill. You can see some pictures in my gallery if you are interested.
I was wondering if you are using the rubber absorbers for the motor. I have them installed but are not satisfied with the result, maybe they are to flexible for this motor or should I take them out anyways?
Who has experience with this? How is the vibration in the saw if you don't use them at all?