Blades and Sharpening...

[Ljohnsaw]

Soon it will be time to order some blade for my home-built saw.  From what I've read on various threads, I'm thinking I will get 7 degree for all-around use.  I am NOT a production operation - just going to be milling for my own use/construction.  Predomonate wood will be Ponderosa Pine, Incense Cedar and Quaking Aspen.  I have very little Oak that I may use for accent pieces or braces on my cabin.

So, is 7 degree the best choice or should I go to a 10 degree?  How many should I purchase - a box of 10 or 12?  I see some of you sharpen your own, others ship them off.  I'm of the mind to ship them off. What is the typical price per band to sharpen (138")?  How long of a turnaround?
Thanks

[hamish]

10 degree was the standard for years, and have been used to cut everything imaginable.  I would recommend sticking with the 10's as they are readily available from all band dealers, likewise all sharpening services have the appropriate equipment (ie cams etc...) for the 10's.

I shapren my own, thus cannot guess at your requirements for the number of bands to keep on hand, but let it be known, running out of anything sharp when you need it really sucks.

[Bibbyman]

I agree.  10° is a good place to start.  7° are said to require more HP to get the advantage from them.  7° were intended for hard wood and hard to saw hardwood.

I'd say 10 blades will be plenty to get started with.  Most blade manufacturers give a discount for large orders. But that will tie up a lot of money.

Send off or sharpen at home?   I'd say start by sending off to sharpening service.  It'll be one less thing to master from day one. 

Considered the blade manufacturer and sharpening service from the same company.  I know Wood-Mizer will only sharpen Wood-Mizer blades. I expect other companies will only sharpen their own blades.

[drobertson]

I ran ten degree for a few years, and they cut just fine.  I think the gullet might have more to do with the cut then the angle.  I have found a blade that has the gullet and  the 7 dgree angle, but really gullet is more important in my opinion than angle.

[Ljohnsaw]

Blades seem to run around $25 +/- each. What does sharpening run and how many time can they be sharpened assuming I don't really dull them?

[drobertson]

If you are just starting off, you might consider getting a box of each, and trying each one out yourself. No way anyone can tell you the best for you except you.  Learning takes time and experience with an expected cost.  As mentioned both will work, and as far as turn around, you will always want a fresh box while some are still in the shipping mode. Just figure, two weeks at best,  a good idea is to always have a two week supply on hand.

[Ljohnsaw]

<<snip>>
Just figure, two weeks at best,  a good idea is to always have a two week supply on hand.

Ah, but that is the $64,000 question.  What is a two week supply? - it all depends on how many nails you hit  :  :D  Cutting soft wood, clean bark, minimal knots, how many actual cutting hours would you expect a blade to last? Four, 8, 16? 

My WAG based on absolutely no experience, I'm guessing that in a full work day, I might put in 2 to 3 hours on a blade.  Am I anywhere near the answer???

Bibbyman mentioned that the 7° needed more HP than the 10°.  Anyone with lower power mills care to comment on their experiences with particular brands, tooth/gullet design, blade trade names or angles?