An approach to milling the cant(s) for the job.

[OlJarhead]

Maybe this will help.

[losttheplot]

You must have Acuset MK 3 on that mill of yours, to keep all them numbers straight.
I have enough trouble remembering not to hit the back stops and to turn the water on  ;D ;D ;D

[OlJarhead]

You must have Acuset MK 3 on that mill of yours, to keep all them numbers straight.
I have enough trouble remembering not to hit the back stops and to turn the water on  ;D ;D ;D

Nope -- but I also don't do this.  I'm just trying to see if I can approach my logs differently, perhaps more professionally and provide more lumber per log for my customer.  What I normally do is mill the cant and then mill it right down and edge.  Done.  BUT that might not be best...

[OlJarhead]

This is closer to what we've been doing with the only tweaks being that I've added a 1" cut into the cant before the heart to set up for boxing it in (I didn't do that before) and I've offset the cant in the face a little to squeeze out the 12" cant so I can get more 2x6's out of a 16"-16.5" SE DIA log.

This gives me 10 and possibly 11 2x6's and some 1x's.

The 15th cut is really an edge cut to mill the 2x12's into 2x6's and to catch the 2x10's (or smaller) to mill 2x6's out of them.

Is this the best I've come up with?  I think it just might be and funny thing is it most closely resembles what I've been doing.

[beenthere]

And am sure you know that the actual shape of that log, the location of the pith near the center, and the quality you find when opening up the log will be what dictates the actual pattern that you will saw. All these things vary from what your drawing example shows. ;)

[Brucer]

You can plan your cuts to the "nth" degree, but when the log is on the mill reality will hit you in the face.

Well over 95% of my work is with Douglas-Fir.

• It's rare to find the pith centered exactly.
• If the log has some sweep then the pith will probably follow a curve.
• Logs are often oval, not round.
• Sometimes you have to adjust the position of the log to miss tearout or a careless plunge cut from a chainsaw.

And of course with a complicated pattern it's very easy to make a mistake and totally mess things up.

Having said all that, I frequently draw up a diagram to see how to make best use of a log. However, the diagram is just an exercise to help me better understand a better way to approach a cut. I always have a contingency plan so I can salvage the most usable material when things go wrong.

• I generally add 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the theoretical diameter to allow for the unexpected -- more if the log has sweep.
• I always plan to saw down to my target cant in 1" increments (the kerf is included in the 1"). That way if the log has issues I deal with them in the lower valued pieces.
• I try to saw down to a "core" that is either made up of identical sized, parallel pieces, or else is a single timber. The simpler the pattern, the less chance of making a mistake.
• I always carry a lumber crayon. As soon as I start my opening cut, I draw a line across the end of the log parallel to the bed. Then I draw a little "tent" above the line pointing toward the opening face. That way I always know where I started.

I've learned a lot about recovery by using diagrams. I'm always prepared to abandon the plan when the log is on the mill.

[OlJarhead]

Thanks Brucer,

So would you agree then that the simpler approach of milling to the cant and then milling the cant down and edging to size is the best approach?  This has been mine but I was hoping to find a way to get more out of the log for the customer.  I started down this rabbit hole *snicker* thinking I could split the cant and set asside cants of similar size to mill them at the same time but may have come full circle right back to my original way of doing things which is to approach the cant in small increments (1" for the customer, or for me a lot of times it's 5/8" since I use a lot of 5/8 stock) and then take the cant straight down at the desired sizes.

A 16" SE DIA log should yield a 11x11 cant that way (chart I have shows 15 3/4" will yield 11x11 but the field tells me that aint always so and I've had 16" SE DIA logs yield 10x11 cants ;)

[beenthere]

Oljar
Are you trying to put a cookbook together to give to your son to follow?

[Banjo picker]

OlJarhead....You have to decide do I want the most lumber out of the log or the best lumber out of the log....sometimes you can have both...most times maybe not....

Look at your post # 25...If you moved the flitch that is currently on the right that you plan to get a 2x4 out of over to the left side, and fudge everything to the right that you can, you would get closer to center of you 2x6's ....you would loose the bottom right 2x4...Banjo

[OlJarhead]

Oljar
Are you trying to put a cookbook together to give to your son to follow?

Sorta -- I plan to leave examples of different options in the 'binder' that he has for recording jobs.  In a way it's an example that can be shown to customers too to educate them on the process of making lumber and different approaches and also a way for my son and I to think about the approach to each cant.

No two logs are the same but at least having a plan before opening up that first face might be a better approach then just rolling the log up, clamping it and ripping the first face off....

I like to have an approach clearly laid out before taking on the log - kinda like being a marine with a mission, the plan is this, reality is that but the plan sets you on a path to succeed when reality smacks you up side the head ;)

[Brucer]

So would you agree then that the simpler approach of milling to the cant and then milling the cant down and edging to size is the best approach?  This has been mine but I was hoping to find a way to get more out of the log for the customer.

My approach works best for me, but I have a different mill and different log handling equipment than you do. My memory is also a few years older than yours :D. You might find a better way that works for you. It never hurts to try out a new idea.

Sometimes I end up taking a variety of sizes and shapes out of one log, just because they're small and all the same length. I find it can be very time consuming dealing with all that stuff, getting it off the mill, and sorting it into the right pile. I try to avoid it when I can.

I found from sad experience that the more complicated my cutting pattern, the more likely I was to forget where I was and mess it up. You may not have this problem.

Once I've got a log on the mill, I keep the wood there until it's finished and ready to remove. But I have a set of loading arms that I can park stuff on when it needs additional processing. That has an effect on how I tackle a job.

[Dan_Shade]

if you are sawing lumber for construction, you need to understand grading.  i.e. where to start your opening face.  you want the knots to be in the middle of the boards, not on the edges, you will also need to consider grain runout.  It's best to center up the pith as well as possible.   Hardwood lumber grading is different than this method.



 

this diagram is how I do it.  there are a lot of old posts on here that I recommend you review.  Search on Tom's sawmill posts, the information Tom provided here over the years is invaluable to a new sawmill owner. 

here are two to get you started:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,686
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,15483

[elk42]

   Dan you are the man .I to saw from the pith, cut the least amount of fletch, turn log on more than needed = more bf/hr.

[justallan1]

What I did on the last few that I cut was just make 1" flitches until I got to my cant size, flip it 180*, do the same, flip it 90* saw to cant size, flip it 180* saw to cant size and make boards.
I have two customers now who want live edge, so if I can't get a 8-10" board it doesn't get trimmed. Plus I don't have orders of any specific size so I'm just sawing boards and get 75% of whatever is on the wall at the lumberyard from them. I do try to get all the 2x8s possible for the ranch though.
Allan