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2 stihl saws oil consumption ?

Started by Jakedaawg, December 13, 2015, 08:38:45 AM

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Jakedaawg

I have two Stihl saws.

1st is an 036 PRO from the '90's I believe.  Not sure how to tell what year.

2nd is an MS 362 C (I think) new late last year.  It is supposedly pretty close to the older saw according to the sales guy.

The old 036 seems to use almost a whole oil reservoir per tank of fuel.  It has always done this.

The new saw runs significantly less.  Maybe half of the reservoir?  I am also noticing that the chains, which I switch back and forth from saw to saw, seem to require more adjusting when on the new saw.  Additionally, on the new saw, it appears to have a slight area of excessive heating on the bottom of the bar right before the chain goes back in towards the sprocket.  This area is maybe 3" long and 3/8" high.  This mark is now on both the top and bottom of the bar as I flip the bar with each chain change.

Does this sound like the right amount of oiling?  More info below about usage and such, not sure if its necessary.

They both run Stihl brand 3/8" yellow link chain. All chains and saws come into the shop each night and get cleaned up.  Chains get sharpened on a bench grinder.  They both use 20" stihl bar with the roller sprocket thing in the tip.  I try and keep the maintenance up to date.  I use Stihl brand oil from the oarnge gallon jug unless it is near or below 0 F, at that point I switch to Stihl brand oil from the blue gallon jug (winter weight) they call it.

I cut hardwood for firewood in N. Lower Michigan.  The trees I am bucking are Red Oak, Maple, Beech and Ash.  Alot of Ash as it is all dying up here. The logs range in diameter from 10" to 40" mostly to the larger end of this. I buck 25-50 face cord a year historically but this year significantly more due to massive wind storm.

Jakedaawg

Sorry, 25-50 full cord/ year.  not sure it makes a difference though.

pabst79

 Welcome to FF  8), I can't tell you why without guessing that its a epa thing, but I will tell you that I notice the same thing with my 032 and 026 compared to a newer MS290. The older saws cut much longer without sharpening or adjustment, seems like I always have to tinker on the 290, so usually it gets left behind.
Not sure which came first, but I have chickens and eggs.

HolmenTree

That burnt off paint on the bar rails is only relative to how much cutting is done with a chain needing a touch up with the file.
Here is a bar of mine that is 23 years old , a 28" Stihl ES bar that never had the sprocket nose replaced and lost paint from normal cutting.  Many times over it may have needed a touch up with the file sooner   :D
Rails are still kept tight and true ;)


 
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

old guy

Have you adjusted the oiler on the 362?

    John

Al_Smith

The oil thing is just the EPA flexing its muscles. Sarcasticaly in my opinion they liken chainsaw bar oil to the wreck of the Exon Valdiz .On the other hand it's good for business as this way the companies that make chains and bars get to sell more of them .

Jakedaawg

Quote from: old guy on December 14, 2015, 05:27:35 AM
Have you adjusted the oiler on the 362?

    John

Is this simple to do?  I am a marine mechanic by trade so I am not scared to figure this out.  I wonder if there is an online parts breakdown that would show the location of an adjustment screw.

If this really is EPA crap man are they making things suck!  Same kinda reg's on outboards lately.

old guy

Turn the saw upside down, rite there in the casting below the clutch is a screw in a hole, turn it counter clockwise as far as it will go then it should use as much oil as the other saw.
  The fact it not getting enough oil is causing your bar & chain problems

      John

rasawing

Like Old Guy was saying, you probably need to check the chain oil output screw. You make it sound like this is a new saw. I've had people sell me saws with those screws turned all the way (to where it wouldn't put out hardly any oil). So that's a likely culprit.

rasawing

QuoteTurn the saw upside down, rite there in the casting below the clutch is a screw in a hole, turn it counter clockwise as far as it will go then it should use as much oil as the other saw.

At least with my saws (which are Stilhs)......you can turn that screw forever and it will never "stop". You just have to look and see how the screw lines up with the high/low oil setting. And sometimes what you think is the correct end of the screw....isn't. (Then you'll have to rotate 180 degrees.)

beenthere

Here is a pic of the underside of my Stihl 362.
Just under that embossed directions for less or more oil, there is a small hole with a flat blade screw.. mine turns clockwise to full oil, and doesn't go endlessly around.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Texas-Jim

Dont worry about the bar looking burnt, stihl bars are heat treated on the edge where chain rides. That heat treating makes them discolored, even a new one is if strip paint off of it.
What we do in life echoes through eternity.

Al_Smith

Fact of the matter is all chainsaw bars are heat treated .Try drilling a hole in one sometime

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