self loading log truck

[Ironwood]

Dave,

That was a self built unit. The knuckle is a Hiab 035, weighs just over 1000 and lifts 5500lbs up close. There is a thread on itunder urban forestry I will look for it and link it here.


https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,51008.0.html


Ironwood

[Woodchuck53]

Morning all. I went back into this post because I enjoyed it so much the first time around. SwampDonkey and I asked what happened to the loader guy and his questions?

That's okay I think after much research I will put my air tag in front of the drive wheels. I had set an axle on a rancher's rig one time and asked him what he would do if that happened. He set he would be careful. The tires were smaller than the drive tires but it didn't help. He had me cut all that back off.

Anyway the truck is at the paint shop and I have been working on fixing a few rust thru's around the windshield flange. Then a new coat of white paint.
When I get it back I will mount the tag axle.

Question: Is the double frame as hard to drill thru as it looks like it will be? What is the best way to go about it? How big and what kind of drill is good for something like this? I have welded on frames for farmers at their say so but this rig is mine and I hope to have it for a while and want to do it right.

The air block under the hood on the driver side of the F-8000. Is this the source for the PTO I mounted and the air axle? Any thing special I need to know?

The loader is welded to the end of the frame on the old rig I bought. I will remove it and I guess weld it back because the bed has been lenghten already 4 feet on the new truck. This will accomadate the 20' bed I bought. I will be making socket log bolsters as well as removable sides for it. There is always a lot of storm damage to clean up as well as hauling my on service debris off. It is shaping up to be a busy winter shop season for me.

I have an air driven winch that I will be mounting on the frame that holds about 150' of 3/8" cable that will be ran off the hyd's. This is to eliminate a second pc. of equipment on site when I can. Just drag it close and snatch it up with the loader. I don't own a skidder so I pressure wash most of my wood now anyway.

Well didn't realize I was getting this long winded so I will go and keep researching. Any ideas holler back. Thanks Chuck

[snowstorm]

first off what are we working on? as for drilling the frame. it can be done without a magnetic frame drill but its a lot more work. i always start with a 1/4". if mounting the tag put it under the truck get it where it needs to be if its bolted on with 5/8" bolts then use a 5/8 drill to mark the holes. DO NOT weld the loader to the frame. i know now someone will claim that there uncles brothers cousin did it once and it worked great. it wont.do not use threaded rod. use grade 8 ubolt rod 1". a spring shop should have it. it the loader going on the front or back? always had mine on the front. whether it should be a tag or a pusher all depends on the wheel base. pictures would help. yes take your air off the block as far as the winch i wold think you will need extra air tanks to get enought vovlume to run it

[Woodchuck53]

I'll try and be a little clearer. The truck is the 1986 Ford 8000 I bought with 54,000 rears and a clear 20 foot frame double walled. The loader is presently welded onto the back of a 1965 Ford 850. I will be putting it on the back of this rig so I can use my Pintle hitch for a tag along trailer for longer stuff and equipment hauling.

I haven't got to that point but hoping the assorted holes on the frame now that some may line up with the tag axle to start mounting it. If some do then I will use the necceassary bit (5/8")to mark all holes. Then use a pilot bit. I don't have a mag. drill. I will have to rent it if I need it.

As for as the winch it will be converted to hyd's. The wet kit is in place now. Just need to run my steel lines to the rear of the truck during the rest of the fabrication.

As to the socket bolsters, I haven't asked but is this legal or do they have to be permanently attached to the bed?

Thanks for the mention of the air supply. This is my first air brake rig and wanted to not excite the La. DOT guys because of the brakes supply. I still need to find a control for the tag axle and mount it.

Well I hope this is clearer for all as I am getting a little closer.

There are pictures in my gallery and will pull some to the post as I progress with the build.

Thanks again, Chuck

[Ironwood]

"Socket" bolster are acceptable but need to be made captive somehow, either pins or bolts, so they cant just come out. Locally we call these "Standards" and I believe the Fed DOT if the norm for all states.

Sounds like it is going to be a nice rig.


Ironwood

[Okrafarmer]

Here is a picture of one of Profdan's two self-loading log trucks in action, taken today. While this does work, I really don't like it, because it is frustrating to deal with, breaks down frequently, and has some obvious safety concerns.

I have posted some pictures of it before, including my avatar picture, but I don't think I ever posted a picture of it actually in action.



 

[NWP]

Okra, do you know what model Prentice loader is on the white log truck in your Facebook pictures?  I have the exact one on my truck, but the serial number plate is gone.

[Woodchuck53]

When we still had a papermill and could haul short wood that was all you saw. Everyone of the old timers were running a home made rig like that with or with out extra axles. I believe they would cut up a ford rear end to build the winch and use the master cyliner off something to control the lift. Free fall spool out of cable and feather in the brake and up or drag she goes. Smaller stuff hand loaded of course.
Don't mind seeing DOT tighening up on the road rules but the little guys are all gone now. Mills want long wood.

[Okrafarmer]

Okra, do you know what model Prentice loader is on the white log truck in your Facebook pictures?  I have the exact one on my truck, but the serial number plate is gone.

I think it is a Prentice 110. It's an old one, not sure but it may have been installed on the truck when both were new. 1972.


 

This is a picture shortly after Profdan bought it. It is in use now, Greenhorn Artisan is the primary driver. We keep on repairing and improving it, getting it up to snuff. It now has eight steel log posts on it.

[NWP]

It appears the only difference is mine has telescoping stabilizers and that one has folding ones.  And mine looks more worn out.

[Okrafarmer]

Ha! This one is plenty worn out. Trust me. If yours is worse, you probably shouldn't load logs with it.  ;)

[North River Energy]

Question: Is the double frame as hard to drill thru as it looks like it will be? What is the best way to go about it? How big and what kind of drill is good for something like this?

If you have access to a mag drill, take advantage.  Your bits, and enthusiasm for the project, will last longer than the task.

[CRThomas]

Ive never seen a lift axle that has hydr. brakes but they may have made them. I had a R model Mack with a non lift axle  you had to be real careful or it would hang you up. Once backing over a combined bean feild just the row was enough to make the drive axle spin. By the way your new skidder looks real good.

How many tons can you haul on a ten wheeler of logs

[03westernstar]

A little old but I just saw this truck on craigslist for sale :'(  I hate to see that,either he upgraded of going out of buisiness

Here is a picture of one of Profdan's two self-loading log trucks in action, taken today. While this does work, I really don't like it, because it is frustrating to deal with, breaks down frequently, and has some obvious safety concerns.

I have posted some pictures of it before, including my avatar picture, but I don't think I ever posted a picture of it actually in action.