Question about yard trees

[LittleJohn]

Ok, might not be the best location to ask this but hey have to start some where.  Last year the wife and I moved into a new house in town and of course there are NO trees in yard, so I am looking for some suggestions on trees for yard, as many as 5 could be planted this year.

I have the following list of requirements/limitation and would like some suggestions of trees for yard:
  1) Located South of the Twin Cities in Minnesota (Lonsdale, MN to be specific)
  2) Ground is SOLID CLAY
  3) Would prefer a tree that does not drop fruit, nuts or large cones; or poisonous
  4) Would be planted in FULL sun
  5) Wouldneed to be strong, house loacted near corn field and we get horrendus winds

[SLawyer Dave]

Someone on this board living, or being familiar with your area may be able to help you, but otherwise, I would recommend you talk to a local nursery or tree farm.  They should be in a better position to know what species of trees flourish the best in your particular conditions.

One thing to keep in mind is whether you would prefer evergreen trees or deciduous.  With your northern latitude, many times for energy efficiency, you may want to look primarily at deciduous trees, (at least on your southern exposure of your house).  In this way, during the winter, you will still get the most of the natural warmth and light of the sun on/in your house, while during the summer, you will get the cooling and shade effect of the trees.  You also need to keep in mind the width, height and root effects/needs that the different trees may have, so as to not cause yourself problems in the future.

Good luck.

[beenthere]

Littlejohn
Look across the fields to the farms and their windbreaks for some tree ideas. Depending on the development going on in your neighborhood, if that open area toward the cornfields stays for a few years, then a few evergreen shrubs and/or trees can offer some relief from those winds.
I always would plant a lot, as they can always be cut down if too big or not desirable at some point.

Local nursery would be a good bet, as mentioned.

[LittleJohn]

BEENTHERE, funny you should say that, cause less than a 1/4 mile to the south of house this is a slight hill and a couple of rows of trees on top (mostly oaks, a couple  of maple and few I can't figure out).  Well due to wind they all go up about 15', then start to curl over due to wind (would hate to be the guy to mill them). 

So what ever trees I choose I feel like I will have to try and stunt (chop the tops off) to help with the deformation casue by large volumes of wind.

The search continues!

[John Mc]

American Elm is fairly fast growing, strong, and will grow in marginal soils. No nuts or fruits to clean up.  There is a reason that so many towns in the US have an "Elm Street". They make great shade trees, and don't take a lot of fussing to get them to grow (they are also fairly salt-tolerant, which was an issue when they were planted along the roads in Northern climates).

Most of these were killed off by Dutch Elm disease years ago. However, there are some strains out there now that are supposed to be resistant to this disease.  I bought two "Princeton" American Elm saplings 6 or 7 years ago. They were less than 1" DBH and about 8 ft tall when I bought them.  They are now about 5 or 6" DBH and going strong.  I'm hoping the disease resistance proves to be true... it usually doesn't show up untill the tree is p arund the size of what mine are now.

[Ianab]

For the wind, can you plant some shelter trees a bit further away from the house? Then your ornamentals between them and the house?

Locally we might use Hybrid cypress or Japanese cedar as they are fast growing and wind resistant. But your climate is probably too harsh for those?

But the idea is to give your desired trees (and the house) some shelter. If the yard trees start getting above the shelter belt, the wind will tend to take care of pruning the tops  ;)

Otherwise, these are your local native trees.
http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/education/treeforallseasons/nativetrees.html
Local Cedar (Juniper) should make an effective wind break? Then you have various birch and maples that should fit your other criteria.

And help with choosing trees for your particular area.
http://www.myminnesotawoods.umn.edu/2008/11/recommended-trees-for-minnesota-by-region/

Ian

Edit: Or disease resistant Elm as John suggests. But that will also benefit from the shelter belt.

[John Mc]

I used to live in an old farmhouse in NW Ohio, in an an area that was as flat as a board and wide open farm fields.  There was a good stand of some sort of conifer to the west and southwest of the house.  This made a huge difference for us as it blocked the prevailing winter winds, protecting the house.  Maybe something to consider in your area?

We were fortunate tha i our area, the conifers blocked the prevailing winter winds, but the deciduous trees to the south still let through the sun in the winter, and provided shade in the summer.

[BuckeyeAaron]

I can try to offer a bit of advice as I have worked in the ornamental/horticultural field for a while.  Your list limits your abilities.  Full sun and heavy clay is not a recipe for a large selection of trees.  When I hear those descriptions, I'm thinking of bullet proof trees that can grow just about anywhere.  As far as seedless goes, there are lots cultivars out of fairly known trees that offer reduced fruit production or no production at all. 

I would actually argue against an Elm selection.  While I agree that Elm is extremely tough and there are very highly resistant cultivars out now (especially the ones that are crossed and back-crossed with European varieties) they are prolific seeders.  This may not be an issue in your lifetime but as they mature their seed covers everything.  That personally wouldn't bother me but to some it may (note: they are very small and easily cleaned).  My other general statement is don't be afraid of non-native plants.  There is nothing that irks me greater than native nuts that act as if planting anything non-native is inherently awful for the environment and that anything native will automatically thrive in your front yard.  Neither is true.

All of that being said, here are some suggestions:

1. Blue Spruce - Yes, nothing too exciting here.  They are a dime a dozen as far as residential landscapes go but they do quite nicely in poor soils and love full sun (hence why so many are used in landscapes).  There are several cultivars out and anything will likely achieve your desires.  Be sure to give it plenty of space though as they can get quite large.

2. Hackberry -  Not known for nice fall color or for being a "pretty" tree but they are tough as nails.  They will grow anywhere, produce nice shade, and grow large.

3. Osage-orange - Another very tough tree.  They are messy however (large green fruit) and have thorns.  So if you purchase, be sure to get the cultivar 'White Shield' as it is thornless and fruitless.

4. 'Winter King' Hawthorne - A go-to tree for full sun and bad soils.  This a medium sized tree and has nice bark interest for the winter, pretty white blooms for the spring, and red berries in late fall/early winter that birds love.  This is great choice though horribly overused in some areas.

5. Hardy Rubber Tree -  You probably won't find this one but nurseries everywhere should start growing it.  Beautiful dark,  glossy leaves.  Interesting bark.  Good habit.  Dense shade.  Very tough and drought tolerant.  Excellent shade tree.

6.  Dawn Redwood - Deciduous "evergreen" that has excellent form and fantastic bark.  These can tolerate wet or dry crappy soil.  Beautiful, ancient trees.  Very large.  (there is a lot of interesting history how the propagation industry saved this tree from extinction in the early to mid 20th century - Google it if interested).

7. Baldcypress - Another deciduous evergreen.  Form is a bit more irregular but they can handle horrific soils.  Can grow quite large.  Give plenty of room.

9. Corneliancherry Dogwood - The only Dogwood that could handle full sun and clay. This species has yellow spring blooms but still very pretty.  Smaller ornamental.  You will want to check zone tolerance before planting in your area.

10. Juniper - Dozens of cultivars to choose from (dwarf, upright, traditional, etc.) to fit your needs.  Tough trees that grow everywhere.  Evergreen.

11. 'Purple Robe' Black Locust - One of my favorite cultivars.  Just like traditional Black Locust but has purple blooms instead of white.   Really awesome tree.

12.  Weeping Mulberry  - Could be considered a "weed" tree but very tough.

You would want to check zone tolerances on all of these for your area.  Also, when planting, plant HIGH.  Planting too low in clay will almost certainly kill or stunt your trees.  Also be sure to remove all cage and twine (if buying balled and burlaped) or if buying containerized trees be sure to check for circling or girdling roots and remove.

Best of luck and happy planting!! 

[John Mc]

BuckeyeAaron -

Thanks for the interesting post. Interesting reading on the Dawn Redwood. Sounds like an interesting and unusual tree.

I've never heard of the Hardy Rubber Tree.  Will they grow in places like Minnesota? My sister and her family are outside of Minneapolis and might want to look into one... but they've been seeing -30˚F temps a lot this year.

[John Mc]

I guess I don't even think of Elm seeds as something to clean.  I just run the mower right through them (just like I don't clean up Maple seeds).  But then again, I'm not one to get hung up over the "manicured lawn" look.  I thought the OP was referring to fruits (that can make a mess), or larger nuts, like acorns, walnut, etc. that may need to be cleaned up before mowing.

How much fruit does a Weeping Mulberry put out?  We had a HUGE mulberry tree of some sort near the farmhouse where I grew up in Ohio. The story goes that every farm wife that ever lived there tried to convince her husband to cut it down.  The tree produced a prodigious amount of fruit, which ended up getting tracked into the house on the kids feet and staining everything. It also attracted flies by the bushel when it started to rot.  My mother's solution was to have us spread fiberglass screens each year before the fruit started dropping, then haul the fruit off to dump in the woods.  We all loved that tree (except for my mom, whose feelings were understandably mixed). But I'd never plant one near a house.

[BuckeyeAaron]

BuckeyeAaron -

Thanks for the interesting post. Interesting reading on the Dawn Redwood. Sounds like an interesting and unusual tree.

I've never heard of the Hardy Rubber Tree.  Will they grow in places like Minnesota? My sister and her family are outside of Minneapolis and might want to look into one... but they've been seeing -30˚F temps a lot this year.

From what I've seen Hardy Rubber tree is good to a 4B zone.  Looking at maps, it looks like Minneapolis may be on the fringe of this species (4B is -20 to -25).  It may do well if planted in a semi-protected spot from cold westerly winds but there would definitely be some risk in using this species in consistent -30 temps.  That's too bad because this is really spectacular urban dough, drought tolerant, fantastic shade tree.

[BuckeyeAaron]

I guess I don't even think of Elm seeds as something to clean.  I just run the mower right through them (just like I don't clean up Maple seeds).  But then again, I'm not one to get hung up over the "manicured lawn" look.  I thought the OP was referring to fruits (that can make a mess), or larger nuts, like acorns, walnut, etc. that may need to be cleaned up before mowing.

How much fruit does a Weeping Mulberry put out?  We had a HUGE mulberry tree of some sort near the farmhouse where I grew up in Ohio. The story goes that every farm wife that ever lived there tried to convince her husband to cut it down.  The tree produced a prodigious amount of fruit, which ended up getting tracked into the house on the kids feet and staining everything. It also attracted flies by the bushel when it started to rot.  My mother's solution was to have us spread fiberglass screens each year before the fruit started dropping, then haul the fruit off to dump in the woods.  We all loved that tree (except for my mom, whose feelings were understandably mixed). But I'd never plant one near a house.

I agree about the Elm seed.  I just wanted to point out there is A LOT of seed when they do set fruit.  But one can simply mow over it.  But some folks don't even care for that.  Personally, fruit production never bother me (perhaps Juglans can get messy).  I love Oaks, Sweetgum, and Hickory and wouldn't hesitate to plant one in my yard because of the fruit.

The weeping mulberry is a cultivated variety and it does not set fruit (at least from what I've experienced and read).  It's just a tough tree that has a bit more "ornamental value" than the straight species variety.

[Phorester]

LITTLEJOHN, You're in a good position to have trees that meet your objectives. You don't have to start with existing trees that are not suitable for your purposes. Two points that haven't been mentioned yet: you need to decide on how tall (or short) you want the tree to grow.  Choose a tree species or cultivar that will not grow above that height.

Second; topping trees to "conform" to a desired mature height is slow death for a tree.  For one thing, the topped branches will regrow quickly, and within 5 - 10 years the tree will be taller than when you topped it. These new branches will have weak attachments to the branches, and be subject to wind and snow breakage. If it is a terminally dominant species, like most conifers, for instance, removing the top will greatly reduce the health of the tree. If needed, tree height can be lowered by proper crown reduction pruning techniques, not just sawing off the trunk and upper branches to the desired height.

But the best way to answer the concern of a tree being too tall is to choose a species or cultivar to plant that will not grow taller than you want. Saves a lot of work and aggregation in the future.

[shelbycharger400]

Im in the sandbelt here in becker,  but I know of a buddy of mine has a walnut growing in clay.   How big of a yard do you have?   Eastern Red cedar grows just about everywhere.  Several pines would do too.  Im assuming you dont want a winged seed tree? (maple)

[Herb]

I would always choose native species for planting anywhere on my property. These are proven plants that would be hardy and with less problems than introduced cultivars or species. If planting an evergreen windbreak it would be best to plant as many and as thick as possible,affording mutual support

[Reddog]

Some resources that may help you chose if looking for native trees.



http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees_shrubs/index.html