What's next to add to the list?

[Peter Drouin]

Turn the end of the grease gun, The tip ajust like a drill . Most do not all.

[Bandmill Bandit]

Jeff that grease tip on your gun is probably a 2 piece spring loaded pressure lock tip  if you look closely you should be able to see a line about a half ish inch from the end that screws on to the hose. that is where it comes apart and will release the spring that locks that nozzle to the zerk. As a rule when the nozzle locks like that it means the grease is not going into the bearing so the pressure is between the check valve in front of the plunger on the top of the grease gun and the zerk.

You can loosen right at the tip to get it to release and then turn out the grease zerk and check for crud that is likely blocking the zerk. a lot of time it wil just be a combination of rust and grease that packs hard like cement and freezes that little ball in the grease zerk. I just put in a new zerk when that happens

Be careful when you open the tip to release the pressure as it can be hig enough to cause damage to a finger tip. 

[JohnM]

...did about everything I can think of without getting medieval on it yet.

So no Gimp yet?   I've used a flat-head screwdriver to pry one off before.  Jim Rogers is the FF grease gun guru, correct? :-\ ;) ;D :D  (jk Jim )

[Jeff]

I went back out shortly after I posted and messed with it a minute or two and it popped off. 

[petefrom bearswamp]

I agree on the oil change.
Oil is a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild.
Pete

[backwoods sawyer]

Check the back stops for square to bed, rotating the cam adjusts them. I had two that would move when clamped. One was a wallered out hole, the other was a broken weld in the center. Clamp a board up high to check for movement, use a square and a board to set them ;)

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Was there any critters living on it? A Woodmizer firing right up.......way to go Jeff!

[Left Coast Chris]

A couple of other things to add:

Walk up to each tire and place both hands on the top of it and push and pull back and forth to check for a loose wheel bearing.  If it moves a bit you need to pull the tires off and repack the bearings and adjust properly.

Check for cracks in the water jug.   

You should be good to go after lubing.  I always carry a good tool box on longer trips incase of the unexpected.

[customsawyer]

I would set it up and saw a junk log I have laying around and see if there was anything that needs tweaking.

[Jim_Rogers]

...did about everything I can think of without getting medieval on it yet.

So no Gimp yet?   I've used a flat-head screwdriver to pry one off before.  Jim Rogers is the FF grease gun guru, correct? :-\ ;) ;D :D  (jk Jim )

I'm not even going to comment on that, at all.

Jim Rogers

[slider]

I'm with Banbit on changing out that zerk ,If it locked that gun up something is not getting grease .

[Tom L]

I went back out shortly after I posted and messed with it a minute or two and it popped off. 

I purchased one of those zerk tools I saw advertised on here, fill it with blue creeper or a light oil and smack it on the end with a hammer at each grease fitting on the machine. it works wonders to get all the old caked up grease out of the fitting and lets the grease flow thru the fittings when done. very handy tool , use it all the time.

[Magicman]

Sometimes it actually best to go ahead and remove the keeper and slide the pin out and give it a really good cleaning.  That way you have removed the caked/hardened grease.  Use the zerk cleaning tool after removing the pin.  Next, go back with a good "red" grease and you will not have future problems.

I don't know about Jeff's but my zerks are all pressed in.

[Jim_Rogers]

Use the zerk cleaning tool after removing the pin. 

What is, or where can I get a "zerk cleaning tool?"

Jim Rogers

[Bandmill Bandit]

ALL my grease zerks are "after market" installs and are threaded now. As soon as I saw they were pressed fits I pulled em all and threaded the holes for new zerks.

The only problem with smacking the crud through the zerk is you end up with it in side the bearing. NOT a good place for rust to go!

And yes Magic man is bang on for the grease quality. Shell has a product up here called Red Ram. It is the best grease I have ever found. very good water repellant characteristics and it sticks to where it is supposed. Excellent cold and hot temp operating ability.

Not cheap but you will use about a third of what you would normally use with standard grease products. 

[Reddog]

I would pull the hubs and repack both sets of bearings. The bearing buddys only put fresh grease to the outside bearing. Seen many a seized trailer using buddys, with grease on the outside bearing and dry back bearings.


Maybe add a fire ext to the list.  http://www.9and10news.com/story/25305295/crews-respond-to-a-sawmill-fire-in-isabella-county

Hate to lose your mill to  a smaller version.

[Remle]

Jeff
Read all the previous post and didn't see any one has suggested checking the charging system. Clean all the electrical connections to be sure they do not have corrosion and give them a good coat of dielectric grease, can't hurt.

[Andries]

Jeff, I operate the same or similar mill - a 1992 LT30G24. (My Gallery photos could be used to compare my mill to yours.)
Before setting up shop at your new cabin site, CustomSawyer's advice was bang on. Nuthin' beats 'reality' as a check-up, by milling a few logs at your home base. You mentioned out-of-square cants from your last milling session; like MagicMan said, that could be as simple as tweaking the log stops to be square to the bed rails. Some penetrating oil on the bolts beforehand and 20 minutes wrench time will fix that. Quick fixes, to a full 3 hour alignment are all in the manual and once you've done it once, it's super easy.
From loading a log onto the deck, milling thick and thin, and off loading the two sided logs will have you reacquainted with the old girl in short order, plus fill in your "hit the road" list
I have the Onan manual and the WM Operators manual for the mill - I'll gladly send them your way if needed.

[thecfarm]

Jim,zerk zapper;
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,69925.msg1053736.html#msg1053736

[Magicman]

Use the zerk cleaning tool after removing the pin. 

What is, or where can I get a "zerk cleaning tool?"

Jim Rogers

LINK

[Jim_Rogers]

MM:Thanks for that link, but I was thinking that it was a different tool you were talking about.
I do have one of those.
Jim Rogers

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
You could add these,
5-57 belts remove and rotate from Drive to Idle side. Check the pulley for stuff under the belts
Drive side bearing for lube. Check the level or change the oil ATF
Check the blade tension screw for proper adjustment. With the band tight there should be 8 threads showing.
Middle track oiler, every 25 hours relube with ATF
Lube the top and bottom rail with ATF and check the lower rail make sure it is not rusty. Hydraulic mills have a brush that rides there.
Middle throat screw or bearing on the early mills.
Drive belt tension and brake adjustment Also make sure the throttle cable is pulling the to the stop when engauged.
Blade guide arm tight and the chain is clean and lubed.
Up down mast free of rust and lube with ATF or teflon spray


Hope this helps.
Marty

[backwoods sawyer]

After towing wipe the rails down with ATF again before moving the sawhead. Road grime is a bottom rail bearing killer. If you tow thru rain or wet roads re oil everything that gets ATF. If when you arrive you find the saw head has road grime/mud wash it down and be sure to grease every thing again as well.