Solar power at the mill

[JBS 181]

I have a LT 35 hydraulic set up in a permanent spot but no electricity at the spot. Love the saw. One thing I want to do is connect a 12 volt battery to the hydraulic end as the contact strip is short and I prefer the mill at the opposite end of the frame when unloading boards, turning etc. I believe I can get all this hooked up. How large of an solar panel will I have to have to keep battery up. I would also like to add that I use a small electric chainsaw that I would not do without. How large of an inverter will I have to have to operate the saw. The saw is used intermittently so I think the battery will keep up. I believe the saw has 15 amps written on it. Do I have to use a marine battery? Thanks for the help. Tired of running generator.

[Thehardway]

You will need to answer a couple more questions for yourself before you can do your load calcs.  Solar panels certainly could provide enough power to charge your battery(s) provided you have a good exposure to the sun.  The real questions are: 1. What is your maximum peak draw (this is what will determine your inverter) size, 2. How long are your sawing sessions and what is the average draw of your load (this will determine your battery size/number) 3. How many hours of sunlight will panels receive between sawing sessions for recharging battery (this will determine the number and size of panels needed to charge your batteries)   

[Thehardway]

Why is it the engine on your mill can't keep the battery charged and provide electrical power?  Just wondering.

[JBS 181]

Not using the battery on the mill to operate hydraulics The strip that the head has to come in contact in order to operate the hydraulic system is short and at one end of the mill. I am operating in a tight spot so it is nice having the head out of the way at times when unloading or turning cants with a cant hook. Also much easier when cutting 8 foot logs. You don't have to run head clear back to release/ engage clamp etc.

[Thehardway]

I believe I would relocate the contact strip or better yet install a second one at the other end of the mill and extend or use parallell wiring to the hydraulics.  Seems like this would be a lot less troublesome as you would only have one battery to maintain and it would charge off the engine which would be more dependable overall. An inverter could still be installed for the chainsaw and an outlet installed to plug into.  I would swap out to a larger, deep cycle battery.  Perhaps you have a reason I am not aware of to avoid doing this?

[JBS 181]

The drive gear on the mill is in a position that will not allow for a longer power strip or otherwise.

[Thehardway]

JBS, here is a link to the what is supposed to be a electrical/hydraulic schematic for the LT35.  https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCkQFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodmizer.com%2Fus%2Fportals%2F1%2Fdocs%2Ff435a78a-83cf-449e-9028-6d420654c1f6.pdf&ei=HspPU868Gei_sQTMv4DgBQ&usg=AFQjCNGerAS0M_G0EnFrDE_ARYXg66M0ZA&sig2=YjfwlNADPcwIkWLjL9SQcw&bvm=bv.64764171,d.cWc&cad=rja

The diagram shows a single 12V positive contact with a simple copper strip and a spring loaded contactor which exists and operates from the hitch end of the saw

I understand that the copper strip cannot physically extended because of the drive gear location,  but it should be fairly simple to fabricate another copper contact strip, mount it on the saw frame at the opposite end as a  bump stop using some insulated standoffs, then run a wire from that contact strip to the same terminal the other contact strip connects to.  A spring would then be mounted on the opposite side of the saw head which would engage the new copper contact strip and it would be connected to the same positive connection as the existing contactor.  This would allow hydraulic operation when saw head engages contact strip at either end of the carriage.  It need not be as fancy as what Woodmizer has done.  It is just a contact point for positive 12V power.  A isolated ground copper termination strip available from your local electrical supply house, 20' of #6 THHN a spring, insulating standoff brackets for securing wire to the bottom of the frame and a few terminal connections should do the job nicely and very affordably.   Or even simpler yet, male/female welding cord extensions can be used to make a remote plug in at the opposite end of the saw to complete the hydraulic circuit.

[Log Dawg]

Look at the LT 70 woodmizer makes a battery pad kit for the middle and the end  so the hydraulic can work.