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Saw Break-In

Started by Artemis, July 06, 2014, 11:59:04 AM

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Artemis

Hello from northern Canada folks! I recently acquired a brand new Husqvarna 445 X-Torq saw and I have been breaking it in. I am wondering if I am doing it correctly though? I ran the saw at mid/low rpm's through the first tank of gas, cutting logs less than a foot in diameter. I stuck to the little stuff throughout the first tank and then on the second tank I started cutting logs about 16 inches in diameter and smaller, still keeping as low of rpm's as I could. Near the end of my second tank I started braaping it a little more through the bigger logs and I did hold full throttle a couple times for no more than a second. I haven't full throttle'd it without the chain cutting something. Reason I say that is I heard it was really bad for a brand new saw to run full throttle without cutting, during the break in period. I am now starting my third tank of gas and I think I will run through the more of the mid rpm's as well as the low's. I am wondering after how many tanks would it be safe for my saw to be held full throttle for a full cut through regular/big logs? Thanks! 

old guy

Never run a chainsaw at less than full throttle in the wood, they are tuned to be run at full throttle, by running it slowly you are running it out of tune and may damage it.
You are right about not wide open out of the cut at first.
Just stick that saw in wood and let er rip, it may be carboned up a little from running so slow but it will clean rite up.
  Enjoy your new saw.

  John

luvmexfood

Personally, I would run it like I stole it. That is if the owners manual says to run it at WOT when cutting. If something is going to happen let it be during warranty period. The closer to being new the better warranty action it seems you get.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

thecfarm

Artemis,welcome to the forum. Did you buy it from a dealer? If so,they should know.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Artemis

I did buy it from a dealer and they said generally 2-3 tanks but it can also take up to 15 hours of run time before the saw reaches its peak power. After everything I have heard I decided to just go and cut down a tree. It was about 18 inches in diameter and I was about half way through my third tank of fuel. I did all my cuts with the saw at full throttle. It had a little trouble idling but only for a few seconds, possibly because it hasn't been ran as hot as that yet. What do you guys think? Will the saw be fine or have I gone full bore too soon?

Ianab

Take it out and saw with it. Modern engines are engineered so they don't need to be "broken in" like the old school machines usually needed. You can start them up and run the normally out of the box. If you buy a new car you will also notice there are no "run-in" instructions any more, start it up and drive normally.

Now the saw will free up and run a bit smoother after a days use, and should have the carb re-adjusted to reflect this. The dealer should do this as part of the after sales service. What wear you cause during that initial run in period, you want to be under normal revs and loading, not puttering about,

So yeah, go and cut some wood.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Artemis


CTYank

I've heard and followed advice to let a new saw have periodic breaks as it adjusts to life. Meaning after a minute or so of (WOT-only, of course) cutting, maybe 5-10 sec of fast-idle cooldown.

While cutting, keep it singing.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

ladylake


Just keep away from long hard cuts for 5 tanks or so and make sure it's tuned right.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Ianab

Quote from: CTYank on July 08, 2014, 06:13:20 PM
I've heard and followed advice to let a new saw have periodic breaks as it adjusts to life. Meaning after a minute or so of (WOT-only, of course) cutting, maybe 5-10 sec of fast-idle cooldown.

While cutting, keep it singing.

And that's basically "normal" use.  You make a cut, then the saw idles while you move or line up the next one, then you make your next cut. Whether you are felling to bucking logs it's basically the same. It's either at idle, or full noise. So I stick the "run it in the same way as you intend to use it".

Only exception might be milling, where you might burn a whole tank of gas in one full throttle run. In that case I'd say to use the saw under normal conditions for a day first. 

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

goose63

My 2188 dident come in a box was to big first day out was big cotton woods wide open run it like you stole it
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

Artemis

Thanks everyone! My saw is running great. I've decided to stick with the process of cutting a tree, de-limb it, buck it up and then let the saw completely cool down before using it again. It usually takes a couple hours to properly cool down, so Im trying not to use it every few hours.

sawguy21

A good quality saw is designed to run all day. How else would a logger earn a living? ;D Letting it idle between cuts to cool down is really all it needs.
Running at less than full throttle creates other problems. The engine will run hotter as it is working harder for longer periods and the cooling fan is not moving enough air. It is also hard on the clutch which depends on speed to fully engage. Lower speed results in less clamping power allowing the clutch to slip and overheat, this is a common problem with grass trimmers and brush cutters. Keep the chain sharp and properly tensioned, use a quality oil mixed to the saw manufacturer's specifications (I'm gonna get flamed here) and run it like you stole it.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

John Vander

Although  modern machines run no problem out of the box, it's good to consider breaking in the chain before getting into heavy duty work. Getting the rivets and straps of the chain to "set" is advised. It is also good to "warm down" the motor after a long day by letting it idle for a while after use. Here in Japan we have such extremes in weather between summer and winter that machine maintenance becomes a serious business. Heavy humidity is no fun at all. :D
Tree and saw accidents nullify years of forestry experience.

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