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Curved brace cutting

Started by rbowie, October 29, 2014, 12:02:45 PM

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rbowie

I've tried my first round of cutting curved braces.  I used the method of cutting kerfs every 4-6", removing the bulk of the waste with an axe or chisel,  and then smoothing with a draw knife or chisel.  I'm having problems with grain tear out, especially at the apex of the curve.

I'm not overly happy with how the braces look so far.  Not smooth enough for my liking.

I'm looking for advice on how to cut curved braces without going to a bandsaw.
1 Sawhorse in and the addiction has begun

scouter Joe

I mark the curve with a string . Measure away at right angles from the centre of the brace till you get the arch you want . Put a pencil in the loop at the end of the string and mark the curve . I then put the brace in my bench vice and cut out to the line with the chain saw . The saw follows this gentle of an arch quite easily . Brush a bit with the saw if needed . I then  take a curved base planer and plane it right to the line . This then becomes the template for all the rest of this length . only takes about 5 minutes to do one once you get going  . scouter Joe

RavensWood

I tried a few methods and ended up bandsawing my braces. I used a 4" belt sander to finish them and it worked well (just keep it moving and use a light touch). Although the sander itself is flat it easily follows a gentle curve. Maybe you could try one in areas where the tear-out is a problem.

kgb12158

  I'll be honest and say I've never been happy cutting across grain to make a curved brace.  I've been most successful using curved material.  I'm looking for some pictures and will post them later. 
Milling the curved timber for depth is not an issue but I usually need to hew the curve for uniformity.  It's always most interesting to me to leave some of the brace taper to maintain the organic feel. 
Also there is less issue with hewing the outside and inside areas of a naturally curved brace because the grain follows the curve.
Last year I built a Nativity for Church with a 10' curved Pine front tie beam it looks great.  Pictures to come.

Just my 2 cents.  Good luck
Kim Balfour Timber Framing since 1986, Woodmizer LT40 HG, and 52" Lane 00 circular Mill.
Only 23 months to full time timber framing

kgb12158

Here is that curved Timber in a Nativity I built in 2012.   Is s

  started with a 4" slab and hewed it to a uniform 6" width. 
Kim Balfour Timber Framing since 1986, Woodmizer LT40 HG, and 52" Lane 00 circular Mill.
Only 23 months to full time timber framing

pri0ritize

Scouter Joe,

I'd like to try your method but I'm feeling a bit slow and can't follow your instructions. Can you make it simpler so I can understand by chance?
2012 LT40HD
Random Stihl Chainsaws and more woodworking equipment than I care to inventory!

tule peak timber

First , your pic is  beautiful..... 8) 8) We are building a couple of bridges right now , and I will try to post pics tomorrow.  Rob
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

scouter Joe

priOritize I've reread my post and I'm not sure I can explain it much differently without drawing pictures and that is well beyond my computer skills . What part are you not understanding . Perhaps if you ask certain questions I might be able to explain better. 

kgb12158 I love the nativity timber frame . Do they just put it up for the Christmas season or leave it all year . I made a rugged cross for our church for the Easter season . A lot smaller project then yours though . scouter Joe

Dave Shepard

I'm with Kim, starting with curved stock is both easier, and gives a more authentic, organic result.

Hi Kim, how have you been?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

kgb12158

Dave

I've been well having fun with my Hobby of timber framing.  When I retire in 2 years I intend to make Timber Framing my Hobby.  Sounds the same just planning on spending more time framing in retirement.

I assume the explanation requesting more detail related to how I cut the curved tie in the Nativity.
First I cut a 4" slab of a curved pine log with the Woodmizer.   This was a bit of an issue because of the 28" throat limitation of the mill.  In the future I will use my circular mill and split off what is not cut.
There was an obvious taper to the log with one end being ~7" wide and the other end ~12".  I laid the timber down and used a pensile and string from a far point to mark an arch creating a uniform 6" width. 
I then hewed to my pensile mark.
I used a snap line to get to the plumb line used for the top of posts.  It was tough drilling the 1 ΒΌ" mortise but it went together well.
Does that answer the question?
Kim Balfour Timber Framing since 1986, Woodmizer LT40 HG, and 52" Lane 00 circular Mill.
Only 23 months to full time timber framing

kgb12158

scouter Joe

The Nativity only goes up for Christmas.  This is the 3rd year.  I'm always thinking about how else to build a nativity for the Christmas season.  I want a timber frame in every church.  Every few of years I build a new one.  I'm always looking for ideas.
Kim Balfour Timber Framing since 1986, Woodmizer LT40 HG, and 52" Lane 00 circular Mill.
Only 23 months to full time timber framing

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