Wet/Dry Timbers

[Wade]

Hi All,
 I'm planning on building a new timberframe shop
next spring and have a few questions. My main question is
with the timbers. I will be accumulating them over a the
next 6 mo. or so. I want to start cutting and sizing them
as I go. I'm thinking that they will be in different stages of dryness. Is this going to cause problems? I really don't want  to have a hundred beams to cut all at once. How much oversize should I cut them to clean them up to final size?
 I've got an architect looking over my drawings right now. I'm
sure there will be many more questions to come. Thanks
Wade

[Jim_Rogers]

Wade:
Good questions!
First of all you haven't said what type or types of wood you intend to use for your shop.
Any fresh sawn timber should have end sealant on the beam to slow the end checking and force the water to evaporate from the surfaces of the faces of the timber and not threw the ends.
We use AnchorSeal from UC Coatings for treating the ends of logs, lumber and timbers.
The amount that the first timbers will dry to the last timbers cut in six months will be very small, especially as this time period is over the cooler winter season.

There are methods and procedures for hollowing out a mortise housing that will account for shrinkage.
A good description and photos of these are in Jack Sobon's book: "Build a Classic Timber Frame House". If you don't have a copy of this book you can get one from the TFG (Timber Framers Guild) online store or other book stores.
Good luck with your project.
Jim Rogers
PS. Keep asking questions!

[Jim_Rogers]

Wade:
Also, I forgot to answer your "oversize" question.
I'm not totally sure I understand your question but if you're thinking about milling some timbers now and then putting them back onto a mill and re-sizing them down later after they have dried some, this isn't necessary if you're using the "Square rule" joinery method.
This method addresses the size irregularities and compensates for them and therefore no re-sizing later is needed.
You can cut your timbers now to regular sizes now based on your design and the loads these timbers will carry, if you intend to use "square rule" joinery techniques.
If you don't want to use square rule joinery techniques then you may have to learn how to do layout and cut joinery by another system, and whatever this system is will determine whether or not you need to "trim" your beams later to an actual accurate size.

Good luck,
Jim Rogers

[Wade]

Jim, Thanks.
 I will be using white oak for posts,beams and rafters.
I'm going to use walnut for all bracing. the building will
be 40'x30' with a 20' wide x 10' deep reverse gable.
I am going to have 4 bents 10' apart, with 2 bents on the reverse gable. There will be two valleys. I'm planning on all the bents being hammer beams.
 I was a framing carpenter for 15 yrs. I'm not sure if what I'm thinking about square rule joinery is what your referring to. I know how to lay out rafters with a framing square and how to use a single reference point. I have some anchorseal and will make sure I coat all ends. I will also get Jack Sobon's  book. Thanks. I will be posting more questions soon. Wade

[Jim_Rogers]

Wade:
There are two sources for the definition of "square rule" joinery. One is the timber framing glossary of terms at the top of this section.
And the other is a detail description in the thread: Tools for Timber Framing List, click on this link to get there.
In this thread I show some pictures to help explain what square rule joinery is, but basically you are going to house every joint to an inner prefect timber. How big a housing you cut depends on how far off the timber is from the layout edge.
Keep reading and asking questions.
Jim Rogers

[FeltzE]

Jim,

I jumped over to the other link you posted, EXCELLENT information.  :P I wish I went to one of your workshops rather than off to the "mountain" for a lesson in work and salesmanship on someones designs.

Eric

[Jim_Rogers]

Eric:
Thanks for your comments.
I've posted lots of information, sometimes you have to dig deep to find it.
Just ask, if I've posted it I can usually find it and show you the link.
Jim Rogers

[hillbilly]

     Hi everyone,I'm kinduf new I have been reading the forum for about a year now,I've learned more in that year than I probably learned in my last 4 years of school.I just orderd chappell's book tfws and Sobons bactfh I havent gotten them yet . I'm wanting to build a timber frame workshop for starters and then maybe move onto something bigger.I'm planning on cutting my frame from SYP how long should I let it dry or could I start working as soon as I get the frame cut?                                                                                                                                                                                                hillbilly

[JimY]

The sooner the better from what I understand.  There's no real benefit to letting them dry unless you're a glutton for punishment.  The wood will chisel more easily when wet.  ;)

Besides, it will take years (maybe 4-8) for most timbers to dry and they can do a lot of twisting and curving in that time.

Jim

Oh yeah, welcome to the Forum.

[JimY]

Should have been 4-8 years.  Gotta use "Preview" more often. :

[Jeff]

JimY, you have a modify button for each one of your posts. You can fix your own posts even after you post them.

(What happened there is that you happened to put two characters together that makes code representing the dancing smiley, the 8 and the) together makes this guy. 8)

[JimY]

Thanks Jeff,

Live, type, and learn.  ;)

Jim