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Tension on blade

Started by Kasba, October 21, 2015, 05:54:37 PM

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Kasba

Can too much tension on your blade cause it to come off?
Timbery M285 25hp, Husqvarna 570 auto tune, Alaskan sawmill, Nova 1624 wood lathe, Dogo Argentino

Kingmt

Yes. It can also cause bearing failure, wheel deforming, & broken blades.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

ladylake

 Worn v belts will cause that or too much diesel lube, I try not to increase the tension to saw straight as that is hard on everything.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Den-Den

Excessive tension can cause the frame and shafts to deflect enough to foul up the alignment causing the blade to move forward and come off.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Peter Drouin

My 40 Supper has no problem with tension. ;D


 
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Chuck White

Not Me!!!

I run my mill with the needle on the tension gage on the line where the yellow meets the orange, around 2100-2200!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.  2020 Mahindra ROXOR.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

drobertson

Not real familiar with your band mill but I would think that too much tension could do that, if its above the designed amount required, something could give way that holds the tracking in line and cause the band to ride off. All you need is enough tension to give you the desired results both quality and efficiency.  Each make has its limits, stay within this and you should be good to go for a long time. 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

WDH

On my new LT40, blade tension is supposed to be 2800 - 3000 psi. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

WH_Conley

I try to keep at 3000 or a bit less. Any more and it is hard on the hydraulic tensioner and bearings.
Bill

ladylake

 And on the bands.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ncsawyer

Quote from: WDH on October 22, 2015, 07:34:58 AM
On my new LT40, blade tension is supposed to be 2800 - 3000 psi.

Same here.  New LT40 calls for 2,800 to 3,000, but my 94 LT40 called for 2,200 to 2,400.  Don't know why the change in recommendation.   I do know that in all my hours of sawing, I think I have broken only one blade.  I always try to run the recommended PSI.
2015 Wood-Mizer LT40DD35
Woodmaster 718 planer
Ford 445 Skip Loader

Chuck White

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.  2020 Mahindra ROXOR.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Den-Den

I agree with everything that has been posted on this thread but would like to point out that pressure on the hydraulic cylinder and tension on the blade are two separate things.  Not all mills use the same size cylinder nor the same size blade.  A hydraulic pressure that works on one brand with a certain blade is not helpful to someone with a different size cylinder or different size blade.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Dave Shepard

Quote from: ncsawyer on October 22, 2015, 08:35:26 AM
Quote from: WDH on October 22, 2015, 07:34:58 AM
On my new LT40, blade tension is supposed to be 2800 - 3000 psi.

Same here.  New LT40 calls for 2,800 to 3,000, but my 94 LT40 called for 2,200 to 2,400.  Don't know why the change in recommendation.   I do know that in all my hours of sawing, I think I have broken only one blade.  I always try to run the recommended PSI.

I was told the change was due to WMs continuing research into bands and metallurgy. I run 3,000 psi also.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Grizzly

Quote from: Den-Den on October 22, 2015, 12:35:50 PM
I agree with everything that has been posted on this thread but would like to point out that pressure on the hydraulic cylinder and tension on the blade are two separate things.  Not all mills use the same size cylinder nor the same size blade.  A hydraulic pressure that works on one brand with a certain blade is not helpful to someone with a different size cylinder or different size blade.

Precisely. I run 5000psi on my Logmaster with 30" wheels and 19'1" bands. I can't imagine that other makes and styles would appreciate that. From the factory they recommend 6000psi but due to my northern location and winter temps I lowered it.
Chinese wheel loader
Jonsered saws - 2149 - 111S - 90?

pineywoods

The manual for my old 95 lt40 might shed a little light on the subject. It has recommendations for 2 different tension settings, depending on the blade. A lower setting for .035 blades, a bit higher for .042. Doesn't mention .045 blades which is what I run exclusively, so I run just a tad more. Maybe the guys who run the tension up near max are running .055 blades. I find that blade tension is not all that critical IF IF IF everything else is up to snuff. I don't like to use increased tension to compensate for other problems...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Kingmt

For my mill Cutting Edge told me to run a cheap Chinese caliper out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Start tensioning the blade until it is stretched .050". I fallowed his instructions & aligned the blade. All seems well for me.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

bandmiller2

Its my belief too much tension on the band is the biggest  cause of early band breakage along with running dull. It just feels so natural that a really tight band will prevent dives and waves, but alas not so, its a keen edge and proper even set that carries the mail. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

kelLOGg

Quote from: bandmiller2 on October 22, 2015, 08:20:59 PM
Its my belief too much tension on the band is the biggest  cause of early band breakage along with running dull. It just feels so natural that a really tight band will prevent dives and waves, but alas not so, its a keen edge and proper even set that carries the mail. Frank C.

Ditto. I have a spring tensioner which I set just to the point of blade flutter. When it enters the log the flutter goes away. If I increase the tension to remove the flutter I get an increased breakage rate.  (Learned this on the Ff)

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Cutting Edge

Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:13:55 PM

Start tensioning the blade until it is stretched .050".


This measurement should be 0.005" or Five Thousandths of an inch.

Not all mills are built to take this much tension due to manufacturing, materials, components, etc.  I've serviced mills that could only SAFELY tension a blade to about 17,000 lbs. of strain.  Any higher than that and the main beam of the mill began to deflect/deform.  In most of those cases, the manufacturer's "setting" was pretty close to what my blade tension/strain gauge was reading.

Anyone using the method mentioned above, be smart about it.  Have the right tools for the job.  Not all mills are built to handle the tension that some blade manufacturers recommend. 



"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


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Kingmt

Thanks again Cutting Edge. That seems to be twice I made the same mistake.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

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