Recommendations for synthetic stickers

[dermith]

This is my first post on the Forestry Forum and I just want to thank everyone here for providing a welcoming knowledge source for those getting interested in the industry. I am starting a small sawmill operation and I am leaning towards synthetic stickers. I have looked through the forums but I can't find any good resources on actual producers of quality synthetic stickers. Can anyone help guide me in the right direction? I would appreciate it.

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

Just about everyone uses wood, as they are, overall, the cheapest.

Some folks use plywood sticks, but they are not suggested for hardwood lumber if SYP is used.

There are a few mills that use aluminum...both half rounds and small rectangular channel.

I have seen fiberglass and plastic stickers, but their weight and high cost seems to have discouraged their use.  At one time years ago, Simpson Timber make a fiberglass sticker sold under the name SKS (I recall).

[dermith]

Thank you Gene,

It is a privilege to have you answer my question. I have read both your Drying Hardwood Lumber and the VA Tech Solar Kiln books and they have been a great resource and reference. Right now I am leaning towards purchasing a few dozen aluminum small rectangular channels (.75in x 1.5 in x4ft) and incorporating them into a stack of wood stickers then observing the difference over time before I invest into a whole batch of aluminum stickers.

My reasoning for small aluminum rectangular channel stickers are:

1) I cannot compete on quantity but I can compete on quality and aluminum stickers have been show to give a more consistent and quality product.
2) I have an anticipated long time utilization of any stickers I purchase so the fixed cost can be spread over many years.
3) I value my time and constantly cutting, squaring, and making sure that wood stickers are at the right MC does not seem to be an efficient use of that time.

Although wood stickers are dominant in the United States that is not necessarily the case in Europe. A Swedish Master's Thesis Evaluation of Wood and Aluminum Stickers and their Stains on Heat Treated Spruce Boards- Influence on quality and cost. shows that projected costs and quality are both higher with aluminum over wood over a three year period, albeit in an industrial setting. I know the processes of industrial use in heat treatment are different than what most of us will experience I believe that some of the conclusions are still valid for a small kiln operation that values quality.

[Ljohnsaw]

Dermith,

I'm near you out in Granite Bay.  Where are you set up?  What equipment do you have?  Do you need a helping hand? 

I was pondering using ripped up Trex (or other "man made" wood) as stickers.  While they do have some wood fiber in them and early products did have a mold issue, I'm thinking they would last quite well.  I was even considering running a V grove on the faces with my shaper to make the actual contact surface less.

While they are not strong, I *think* they will work.  Comments anyone?

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

The key to any man-made wooden or plastic sticker is that it must be able to withstand both high humidity and high temperatures.  Many adhesives will not work well at these conditions and many plastics soften.

There is no doubt that the aluminum channels will last forever (unless the lift truck runs over them).  Part of the problem with wood sticks is that they absorb and hold water which creates stain.  The few people that use aluminum have reported no stain to me.  I will be glad to hear your comments.  A wood stick has a value of about 10 to 20 cents per foot of length, but the aluminum is likely about $3 per foot.

Correction:  The Simpson sticker was called the EKS (Engineered Kiln Stick) and was made of plastic resin.

When I mentioned plywood sticks, I should also have mention an LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) sticker that is quite durable.  I do not know the cost, but check http://www.kilnsticksource.com

[Ljohnsaw]

The key to any man-made wooden or plastic sticker is that it must be able to withstand both high humidity and high temperatures.  Many adhesives will not work well at these conditions and many plastics soften.

No doubt that a kiln would likely compromise plastic stickers.  Since I don't have a kiln (will be air drying), I should be safe.  Though at times, it does get to 110°F here

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

For sticks that will not be kiln dried, the sticker can transport insects and their eggs.  So, it would be important to use a species that has natural insecticides, like cedar or white oak heartwood, or use a non-wood sticker.

Be aware that often air dried and green lumber prices are the same.

[John Mc]

Years ago, the steel wire manufacturing plant I worked for had a customer who was using plastic spacers between his coils of wire. We'd occasionally see them when he returned a couple of coils of wire. He said they were from someone who was extruding recycled plastic. They looked like crap, but they worked. He'd use four of pieces, roughly 1/2"x1/2"x8" between 500 - 1000# coils of wire stacked four high; so the four pieces on the first coil could 3000# stacked on them, and we never saw signs of this causing damage. He said they were cheap, since the plastic extrusion guy making them would just use all his leftovers and rejects to make these. No one cared about color or finish, so it was an easy product to make. Wish I could tell you where he got them, but this was more than 20 years ago - I can't even remember the customer's name or location.

I have no idea what temperatures they would stand up to in a kiln, but I know the extrusion temperatures for the plastics on 3D printers range from about 190 - 250˚C (~375 - 480F). The plastic is almost a paste at that temperature, but I'm sure there are plastics that will stand up to a wood drying kiln. Just look at the plastic utensils that are used in the kitchen. They regularly get immersed in boiling water, and often see higher temperatures.

[Ljohnsaw]

For sticks that will not be kiln dried, the sticker can transport insects and their eggs.  So, it would be important to use a species that has natural insecticides, like cedar or white oak heartwood, or use a non-wood sticker.

Be aware that often air dried and green lumber prices are the same.

I'm not selling wood/lumber (at this time).  This is just for my cabin build.  A lot of my lumber/timbers will be in the 25-35' range so it wouldn't be practical for me to build a kiln.  So I will have to rely on borate compounds.