GOL felling and tree lean

[Tarm]

I've enjoyed the discussions here on tree felling. I was taught and always use the GOL method of tree felling. Open face notch, bore cut, 10% hinge etc. But a couple of times when trying to swing a tree 90 degrees or so the hinge would tear and the tree would fall toward the lean instead of the notch. So my question is how much lean can a 10% hinge hold? Is the solution a 20% hinge and cut off the lean side half of the hinge as I make the bore cut? Or is that in effect just a backdoor dutchman cut?

[thenorthman]

GOL, was never meant for swinging trees, just an over complicated method of keeping noobs safe...


What ya need to do to swing a tree is make the pivot side of the hinge wood thicker, leaving the off side thin or even cut it off. Making the hold wood look like a triangle of sorts. I've even gone so far as to cut half of the hold wood away, leaving a post on the pivot side.

But keep in mind that swinging trees is a craps shoot at best. Sometimes it works great, other times not so much.

You can also look into making a siswheel on the face, maximizes the hold wood on the pivot side.

[Tarm]

Thanks thenorthman
What I mean by swinging a tree is to get it to fall in a direction other than its lean, not having it change directions on the way down.
Explain and define siswheel.

[grassfed]

If you want to fell a tree 90 to the lean put your first wedge in near the hinge on the side the tree is leaning toward; this will support it and keep it from ripping the hinge out sideways. Put that wedge in ASAP and drive it tight.

You can also make your hinge wider on the opposite side of the lean; a bit of a triangle with the hinge approx 15-18% on the opposite side of the lean and 8-10% on the lean side.

Put the second wedge in +- perpendicular to the hinge in the back cut, so it is pushing the tree the direction that you want it to go if the tree is really big use more wedges. Drive both wedges a little bit at a time.

People on the west coast don't seem to like GOL but it works well for me and I often fell trees, accurately, that leaning up to 30 degrees to one side; more than that is usually too much gravity and you need to go less than 90 but you can still move them some.

You do have to be careful because of rot and other flaws in the tree. Always try to stay away from the leaning side and watch the tree closely, if it is going to rip the hinge have a plan b escape ready.   

[John Mc]

If you want to fell a tree 90 to the lean put your first wedge in near the hinge on the side the tree is leaning toward; this will support it and keep it from ripping the hinge out sideways. Put that wedge in ASAP and drive it tight.

That's a good technique on the heavy side leaners. But remember that first wedge right behind the lean side of the hinge is driven in just for support. It''s not the one you are using to drive the tree over if it has any back lean.

As for GOL being just for Noobs... I'm sure the pros out here who are using it regularly would take issue with that characterization.

[thenorthman]

GOL SSD what evs Not going to argue its merits, I've used it but only sparingly, cause its a massive waste of effort and time. Unless its a severe leaner its kinda pointless.

Anyway, A Siswheel (sizwheel) you make a modified block face that tapers out to the hold wood side, leaving the turn side the usual narrow, or even stepped, there is some mighty fine youtube vids about it out there, try and get it to line up with a root swell when possible, and keep the hinge side smooth no nicks.

Anytime you fall a tree away from its lean you need to swing it to some extent, let the weight of the top help you, get it moving and keep it moving the direction you want is the key, eventually its own momentum will take it where you want it to go..

[treeslayer2003]

sizwheel dutchman combo is for swinging and yes it does work on hardwood. you must match your cuts to make it work.

[RHP Logging]

Read up in the "Advanced Falling cuts" thread if you would like to know how to efficiently swing side leaning trees. Boring is not necessary.

[colincb183]

The best way I've found to cut heavy side leaning trees is to make my hinge longer, not thicker. Game of logging tells you to make your hinge 10% of the dbh thick and 80% of dbh long, and for side leaning trees try to go over that 80%. So if you're cutting a 20" tree with a heavy lean to one side, for example, instead of cutting a 16" (80%) hinge, try for a 20" (100%) or 24" (120%) hinge or maybe even longer if you feel the need. The lower the stump you can cut, the better. That way you can use the root flares to your advantage to make a longer hinge. Like others have said, driving a wedge in right behind the hinge on the side of the lean also makes a big difference, not for lifting but for support to keep the hinge from getting crushed.

If the tree is rotten, hollow, dead, or whatever, that pretty much all goes out the window. Maybe a few of the guys that use other methods of felling have a better way to do it but if you're set on using GOL methods, thats the best I've found. Hope this helps and stay safe!