Woodmaster moulding routers

uler3161 · June 05, 2016, 02:59:07 PM

Does anyone know if any other routers will adapt easily to a Woodmaster? I've just about had it with the Milwaukee routers that came with it. I've already tried getting help from Milwaukee before and they weren't interested in helping me.

Here are the Milwaukee problems...

1. I've had bits come out a couple times. I make sure not to bottom out the bit and I'm a big enough guy that I put quite a bit of force on the collet wrenches.
2. The power switches are not sealed and if you turn the routers off, 95% of the time they will not turn back on. Only solution I have found is light tapping with a rubber/wooden mallot on the case for 15-30 minutes. As a result, we turn them off by unplugging. And I should note that on one occasion, one shut off while cutting.
3. And the last problem that I just encountered is the depth adjustment screw. It's got the typical cheap plastic knob and it broke clean off.

Sorry, had to rant a little. We own a couple Hitachis and they've been excellent, but I don't know about mounting them to the planer. I'm guessing the Milwaukee base is specific to that router.

DDW_OR · June 06, 2016, 01:39:59 AM

i had to build a new base for my router. maybe you can do the same for your Hitachis

Dovetail Jig
http://www.harborfreight.com/dovetail-machine-34102.html

9 Pc Router Template Guide Assorted Set
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-router-template-guide-set-98361.html

I cut-out the new base out of a piece of thick plastic. then drilled and recessed the 3 screws.
then placed a deburing bit in the router chuck, and plunged the bit into the new base. thus locating exact center.

then using forcener bits to drill the holes and recesses needed to attach the template guide.

uler3161 · June 06, 2016, 09:03:07 AM

I figured I might have to build a different base. I'm not sure about plastic. I don't know that it would hold up.

And I wouldn't want something too thick. One reason being that we have the 1 1/2 T&G bits that Woodmaster sells (technically they are actually Whiteside). By the time they are aligned, the top router is bottomed out on height adjustment and there is, IMHO, not nearly enough shank length to be considered safe. Any extra thickness created by a new base would possibly make these unusable unless I added an extension. But an extension might be acceptable.

I'm a little confused on what the dovetail jig and template guide you posted is all about though.

DDW_OR · June 06, 2016, 03:58:19 PM

the jig is for making beehive boxes. i mentioned it here as an example.
instead of plastic you could use 1/4 inch sheet steel. make a plastic template first then a metal one.

Joey Grimes · June 11, 2016, 09:44:59 PM

We don't have router attachment on our 725 woodmaster but I would look at the 3 1/2 hp porter cable router we have tortured ours for 5 years and can't kill it

uler3161 · June 18, 2016, 09:45:38 PM

Quote from: Joey Grimes on June 11, 2016, 09:44:59 PM
We don't have router attachment on our 725 woodmaster but I would look at the 3 1/2 hp porter cable router we have tortured ours for 5 years and can't kill it

I'll look into that. Thanks.

steve marek · July 22, 2016, 09:57:02 AM

wont woodmaster help you with problem ? I have a 718 woodmaster and was thinking about getting the table to run 3 sided stock 1 1/2 t&g 3/4 t&g and flooring is it worth it

uler3161 · July 22, 2016, 02:47:45 PM

Quote from: steve marek on July 22, 2016, 09:57:02 AM
wont woodmaster help you with problem ? I have a 718 woodmaster and was thinking about getting the table to run 3 sided stock 1 1/2 t&g 3/4 t&g and flooring is it worth it

I actually never brought up the problem with the routers to Woodmaster. Maybe I should. I did try to get their help with a different brand of feed motor and they offered no assistance, so I doubt asking for a different router setup would be any different.

The 3/4 t&g is great. We run a lot of it. No complaints there.

We have the 1 1/2 bits. Ran one small batch. Doubt I'll ever run any more. Three main complaints:

1. Bits are expensive and as best I could tell, there's only one manufacturer (Whiteside). I hadn't even ran any boards and had to take the router out and I decided to leave the bit in. Well, the aluminum clamp/height system doesn't always make for smooth removal of the router (mostly because the height adjustment screw release is really poor quality). So, when the router finally came out, the bit tapped the side of the aluminum clamp. Not very hard mind you. However, the bit pretty much obliterated. Looked like I had hit it with a hammer. I can't remember how much it cost. There are 2 cutters. It was either $75 a piece or $75 for a pair. It's really my fault for not taking the bit out, but I thought it was odd the bit was that brittle. I have to wonder how well it would hold up going through knotty wood. The replacement cutters have done ok.

2. It only does 1/4" tongue/groove. The groove being 1/4" deep is fine, but I wish it was 1/2" wide.

3. With the 3/4 bits, you can pretty much put the bits in the routers like a normal bit. Don't quite bottom them out when you tighten them in the collet. Then stick the routers in and adjust with the height screw. On 1 1/2, we were out of height adjustment and had to slide the bit farther out of the collet. So much in fact, that I really don't feel safe running them. By not safe, I mean the bit is about an inch farther out of the collet than I'd like. To me, that's a lot. I'd have to set it up again to be sure, but I think the bit was only about 1/2" down inside the collet. The answer is probably a collet extension.

PC-Urban-Sawyer · July 23, 2016, 08:35:17 AM

I'd sure call and talk to Whiteside about the bit breaking like that. Everything I've read about that company has been very positive.

Herb

steve marek · July 26, 2016, 08:23:49 AM

thanks for the reply might have rething the 1 1/2 cutters did you ever run them on edge on the planer head I ran the 3/4 t&g that way but it chew up the feed roller wood master send me new ones for no cost but don't know if I want to try it again that y I was thinking about running three side instead

uler3161 · July 26, 2016, 08:59:13 AM

I think it'd be tough to run on edge. Did you build some kind of extra tall fence to do that? What did you do for a moulder bit?

I can see why it would tear up a feed roller. We've broken at least one feed roller by planing narrow material, but if you were doing 3/4 boards on edge, I imagine the roller flex would be even worse.

I'm a little confused by what you mean by three side. Can you give me a little more info on what you mean?

steve marek · July 28, 2016, 08:12:23 PM

the three side is using the planer head as one side I have moulding knifes for the planer head for t&g for 1 1/2 and 3/4 I run most of my moulding knife in the planer head I have and extra planer head just to run the moulding

sawwood · July 28, 2016, 09:38:45 PM

I have made t&g on my Woodmaster on edge. I made a jig to hold the lumber and used two holders so I could run the
one side and then he other. Yes it did chew up the roller but that's lest cost then the router set up. I sure wish I had
not sold my shaper as I would use it to make t&g moldings.

Sawwood

uler3161 · July 28, 2016, 10:35:17 PM

Quote from: steve marek on July 28, 2016, 08:12:23 PM
the three side is using the planer head as one side I have moulding knifes for the planer head for t&g for 1 1/2 and 3/4 I run most of my moulding knife in the planer head I have and extra planer head just to run the moulding

Oh, I think I see what you're saying now. Have the top and the top of the tongue cut by the moulding knives, then use a straight router bit for the bottom of the tongue and a groove bit for the groove side? I'm not sure if that would gain us anything. Might be less passes through the machine because we wouldn't necessarily have to plane it. As it is, starting with rough pine, we plane both sides, then straightline rip, then finally use the router bits. I have been tempted to buy a few more saw blades to stack together to make a dado type blade. Then I could probably straightline and put the t&g in on the same pass.

sawwood · July 31, 2016, 08:19:53 PM

Uler I just ran on to a you tube video of the 3 sided T&G unit for the Woodmaster. They had the Porter Cable 3 1/2 HP
routers on it. I am sure you could use them and may have to predrill the mounting holds. If you look on You Tube as
Woodmaster 18 planer you can find it.

Sawwood

uler3161 · August 01, 2016, 10:01:49 AM

I found it. Thanks! I may have to look at getting a Porter Cable router now.

Solomon · August 04, 2016, 07:06:32 AM

Quote from: uler3161 on June 05, 2016, 02:59:07 PM
Does anyone know if any other routers will adapt easily to a Woodmaster? I've just about had it with the Milwaukee routers that came with it. I've already tried getting help from Milwaukee before and they weren't interested in helping me.

Here are the Milwaukee problems...

1. I've had bits come out a couple times. I make sure not to bottom out the bit and I'm a big enough guy that I put quite a bit of force on the collet wrenches.
2. The power switches are not sealed and if you turn the routers off, 95% of the time they will not turn back on. Only solution I have found is light tapping with a rubber/wooden mallot on the case for 15-30 minutes. As a result, we turn them off by unplugging. And I should note that on one occasion, one shut off while cutting.
3. And the last problem that I just encountered is the depth adjustment screw. It's got the typical cheap plastic knob and it broke clean off.

Sorry, had to rant a little. We own a couple Hitachis and they've been excellent, but I don't know about mounting them to the planer. I'm guessing the Milwaukee base is specific to that router.

I have never used or owned a Milwalkie router, and I don't belive I will after hearing your review about them.
If it were me, (and I'm at lot more hard core than most), I would just eat the routers, by shipping them back to Milwalkie and tactfully tell them to stick their routers where the sun don't shine.
I did that with one of their heavy duty drills about 20 or 25 years ago and have not considered buying any of their products since.
The gear box right behind the chuck came apart inside and I know of a couple of other guys who have had the same issue with the same model drill and one with their right angle drill.
I will not buy the woodmaster machine because of the Milwalkie routers.

uler3161 · August 04, 2016, 03:19:29 PM

The disappointing thing is that everyone used to consider Milwaukee tools to be the best. I consider them around Harbor Freight quality. The old ones were probably good, but apparently no more. Normally I'd blame it on them being made in China, but the fit and finish is actually pretty good. What I see is engineering issues. For instance, they should have spec'd out a switch that was better sealed up from dust for that application.

I also have a Milwaukee Super Sawzall and it also has serious problems. Brand new and the only thing I really got to use it on was cutting up a car (so only a couple hours of use or so) Didn't even make it all the way and broke the blade holding mechanism. I ordered the parts and fixed it, but apparently the curve cutting option (which I don't need or even like) is also broke, so that means A. it won't cut straight and B. the blade hooks onto the side of the tool and it'll pull the blade out. I should have sent it back, but I wasn't as good about filling out warranty info. I'm better at that now.

I bought a Ridgid 24v cordless set which had a reciprocating saw. It's seen at least as much use and still works as good as the day I bought it, though finding 24v batteries is impossible. But I have a 18v set and those batteries will work. Actually, I don't have any complaints with Ridgid. I did burn up the 24v drill that came with the set, but it doesn't owe me anything at this point. I got plenty of use out of it. And it might be repairable. I haven't taken it apart yet.